roald

Oke good point i go think about with option duet or klipper fits for me. Underneed my setup i cannot wait to run it.

gr5 thanks for your advice. i have the 24v revo hemera xs installed on my umo+ with a um2 heatbed. i will give klipper a change so i think i need to begin to order a raspberry pi, bigtreetech skr mini control board with a pt 100 attachment for the bed?

Thank you gr5 for your answer. the thing is i want use the revo heater core on my ultimaker original plus but the don't use pt100 thermistors. But as i understand you this board and thermistor is not the best combination, maybe better switch to a duet3 mini 5+ wifi board or do you advise me anything else?

Hello, i have connect the 104NT-4 thermistor to my ultimainboard V2.1.4 and select number 5 : 100kΩ ATC Semitec 104GT-2/104NT-4-R025H42G in marlin 2.1. but it still measure a temperature of 8 degrees by a ambient temperature of 19 degrees. already measure 127kohm so the sensor looks oke. Do the board V2.1.4 support this type of sensor?

For many years i still use my heavily upgraded umo every day pleasure, but now with my last upgrade, the revo hemera xs, i cannot found the right temperature probe semitec 104nt-4 and aslo not the e3d advised temperature table PT100/ PT1000 with MAX31865 in the marlin build that i use from amedeebulle https://github.com/AmedeeBulle/Marlin/tree/Marlin_UM_Original_Plus sadly I'm not that educated in marlin, but can anyone tell me if it is possible to add the right temperature table, or maybe another build that fit with my ultimainboard rev 2.1.4?

Its working by enable this both lines Thanks for the help // Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing). // The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder). // For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend. #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 19.70} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 0.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis

Oke i define the y-axis as well when im back home. But i dont get you about the nozzle change, in my mind there be no different in distance from center to center when i change the nozzle size. And cant you explain a little bit more about the ifdef clause? Or do you have a tip/website/book to learn a little but more about this?

Question: how to setup an hotend offset between primary and second hotend? I use: upgraded ultimaker original with utlimaker 2 V2.1.1 motherboard. E3d Chimera dual extruder, heatbed, reprap smart controller and Custom firmware from https//github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware Already try: give in the g-code commands "M218 T1 X20 Y0" and reply it with M500 command in simplify3d machine tab. This works for me until i switch the ultimaker off and on. Also try to change the firmware in configuration.h Change: #define extruder 2 #define temp_sensor_1 20 Add: #define HOTEND_OFFSET_X { 0.0, 20.00 } // (mm) relative X-offset for each nozzle //#define HOTEND_OFFSET_Y { 0.0, 5.00 } // (mm) relative Y-offset for each nozzle //#define HOTEND_OFFSET_Z { 0.0, 0.00 } // (mm) relative Z- This doesn't anything do i miss something?

Thank you for your anwer Carlo i make a printscreen of the uploaded pin changes. can you tell me why you fill in -1 values at E1? is it to disable? today i check the pins again and i saw the follow line: #define MOTOR_CURRENT_PWM_E_PIN 46 i think i need change this pin number also because both extruder connectors have 4 pins, but no idea wich pin number i need to fill in?

last week i blown up my motordriver from the main extruder(E1) motor on the ultiboard rev v2.1.4 now i try to set my second extruder port (E2) as main but it doesn't work. first i select the right board (72) from the board list and after that i search for board 72 in the pin tab and change the 3 pinning numbers from E0 To E1 but no power at all do i miss a step? i also tried to change the X/Y pinning and that work the change direction. the extruder morot also work when i put the connector in the Z motor port.

I have design a mount for my titan aero an attach it on the X Y bearings of my UMO it going pretty well but the motor turn the wrong direction after swapping some wires its even dont turn anymore. Im a little bit confused about the schematic the umo board have the 4 motor contacts a1 a2 b1 b2 and the stepper motor on the titan have 6 contacts a ? b a- ? b- anyone know howto connect these? And what are the contacts in the middle?

oke i tried the follow things and check if there is a improvement loose/fasten the bands check rod caps exchange X/Y stepper motor exchange stepper drivers play with retraction change bed nozzle distance when i loose the belt a little change retraction and bed distance i get a solid first layer but there are a few miss steps at the right side and the round but not on the left wall strange enough? also not a fully solid top the next thing i getting tried now is to change my belts en and pully's to gt2 ones 4x 606mm closed-loop belt gt2 2x 202mm endless belt gt2 6x GT2 Pulley 20 Tooth 8mm Bore 2x UM GT2 Pulley 20 Tooth 5mm 2x Twin Pulley GT2 20 Tooth 8mm Bore 4x Selfgraphite Linear Bearing 8*12*30mm

After i get some strange gapes between my outer and inner wall, i design a pen holder and wright a simple g-code to check what get wrong. after some sketches i detect the same problem but couldn't fix it. i'm already dismount, switch some parts and mount the X/Y axis but without improvement

good tips yellowshark. but today i had the same problem with printing my fan mount in abs so i get the idea to sketch 2 support walls each 0.25mm thick, the same sizes as my nozzle to protect the sloping wall from bending. but cura print the walls only when i set wall thickness at 0.125 can i solve this someone other ideas?

thank you for your fast answer gr5 but in my opinion is not the overhang who gives the problem but the tin outside wall bend a little bit up, and when the printhead come over it hit the wall and push it back and the filament squeeze over the wall