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  1. roald


    Its working by enable this both lines Thanks for the help // Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing). // The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder). // For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend. #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 19.70} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 0.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis
  2. roald


    Oke i define the y-axis as well when im back home. But i dont get you about the nozzle change, in my mind there be no different in distance from center to center when i change the nozzle size. And cant you explain a little bit more about the ifdef clause? Or do you have a tip/website/book to learn a little but more about this?
  3. roald


    Question: how to setup an hotend offset between primary and second hotend? I use: upgraded ultimaker original with utlimaker 2 V2.1.1 motherboard. E3d Chimera dual extruder, heatbed, reprap smart controller and Custom firmware from https//github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware Already try: give in the g-code commands "M218 T1 X20 Y0" and reply it with M500 command in simplify3d machine tab. This works for me until i switch the ultimaker off and on. Also try to change the firmware in configuration.h Change: #define extruder 2 #define temp_sensor_1
  4. Thank you for your anwer Carlo i make a printscreen of the uploaded pin changes. can you tell me why you fill in -1 values at E1? is it to disable? today i check the pins again and i saw the follow line: #define MOTOR_CURRENT_PWM_E_PIN 46 i think i need change this pin number also because both extruder connectors have 4 pins, but no idea wich pin number i need to fill in?
  5. last week i blown up my motordriver from the main extruder(E1) motor on the ultiboard rev v2.1.4 now i try to set my second extruder port (E2) as main but it doesn't work. first i select the right board (72) from the board list and after that i search for board 72 in the pin tab and change the 3 pinning numbers from E0 To E1 but no power at all do i miss a step? i also tried to change the X/Y pinning and that work the change direction. the extruder morot also work when i put the connector in the Z motor port.
  6. I have design a mount for my titan aero an attach it on the X Y bearings of my UMO it going pretty well but the motor turn the wrong direction after swapping some wires its even dont turn anymore. Im a little bit confused about the schematic the umo board have the 4 motor contacts a1 a2 b1 b2 and the stepper motor on the titan have 6 contacts a ? b a- ? b- anyone know howto connect these? And what are the contacts in the middle?
  7. oke i tried the follow things and check if there is a improvement loose/fasten the bands check rod caps exchange X/Y stepper motor exchange stepper drivers play with retraction change bed nozzle distance when i loose the belt a little change retraction and bed distance i get a solid first layer but there are a few miss steps at the right side and the round but not on the left wall strange enough? also not a fully solid top the next thing i getting tried now is to change my belts en and pully's to gt2 ones 4x 606mm closed-loop belt gt2 2x 202mm endless belt gt2 6x GT2 Pu
  8. After i get some strange gapes between my outer and inner wall, i design a pen holder and wright a simple g-code to check what get wrong. after some sketches i detect the same problem but couldn't fix it. i'm already dismount, switch some parts and mount the X/Y axis but without improvement
  9. good tips yellowshark. but today i had the same problem with printing my fan mount in abs so i get the idea to sketch 2 support walls each 0.25mm thick, the same sizes as my nozzle to protect the sloping wall from bending. but cura print the walls only when i set wall thickness at 0.125 can i solve this someone other ideas?
  10. thank you for your fast answer gr5 but in my opinion is not the overhang who gives the problem but the tin outside wall bend a little bit up, and when the printhead come over it hit the wall and push it back and the filament squeeze over the wall
  11. always when i have an object with two rounded corners the one that lay on the platform gets very ugly and not round, and the one on the top get very smooth someone tips?
  12. I use a mix of woodgleu and water on a heatbed with katon tape Smooth finish and easy clean with warm water
  13. the problem: without any reason my hot-end don't want heat up anymore, and the print start window show only the hot end temperature and not the temperature of the heat bed, when i press start print the printer don't heat up anything. what i have:* ultimaker original,board version 1.5.7 *selfbuild heatbed relay driven epcos 100k thermistor (4.7k pullup), *reprap fullgrapic smart controller custom firmware i use from: *https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ *cura 15.02.1 already tried: *default firmware
  14. I want upgrade my ultimaker original with two 12V powerleds is there a 12v output on the board wich i can use for it?
  15. howto build and load a custom firmwire visit the website http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ select your brand choose your options (100k is the number of resistance from your bed temperature sensor) the rest i dont change click build right click on the HEX file and choose save as open cura choose machine>install custom firmwire (and load HEX file) done this is what work for me good luck (please correct me when im wrong)
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