roald

yesterday i have receive my ''panasonic ew - ale1pb18 - relay ,pcb, spno 16A 18vdc'' relay and implement it and it switch and everything working well. problem solved thanks for all the help

since a few days my ultimaker original starts with a temperature drop at layer 3 and it drops from 220 degrees to 200 degrees Celsius and ruin a few layers. after layer 11 the temperature stabilize and the other layers going well. things i have already try to solve the problem: restart windows pc re-install cura try another usb port drive from a mac pc (with a older version of cura) disconnect the printer for 2 hours check the cables on the board and print head expand the distance about the power cables from the heated bed and the signal cable from the temperature sensor

i have compare some datasheets and i think this is the best relay for me: panasonic ew - ale1pb18 - relay ,pcb, spno 16A 18vdc http://pewa.panasonic.com/assets/pcsd/catalog/ale-catalog.pdf i have made this decision about; *coil voltage 18vdc close to the 19v output on the board *coil current 22,2mA low coil current the board have enough power to drive the relay *spst-no contact i dont need no more contacts *good price i hope i choice the right one and it will work this time

oke what do you think about this one ''omron g2r-1a-e 18vdc'' its from the same series and the voltage lay a lot closer to the 19v that i measure on the board. http://nl.farnell.com/omron-electronic-components/g2r-1a-e-dc18/relay-power-spst-no-18vdc-16a/dp/2103591

hey AaronAlai, gr5 thank you for answer my questions. i learn every day more and more about the electronics of my ultimaker today i connect the relay to the 12V battery of my car and it works. after the good results with the car battery i want try it again to my ultimaker port but the tiny contact of the coil broke before. i also call my colleague today the one who gave me the relay, and he tell me that it should be possible that i can connect the coil in only one way (i'm always thinking i t makes no different) he also tell me that it is possible to connect 19v on the coil but it reduce the life cycle of the coil. tomorrow i order a new relay and also a component to reduce the voltage from 19v to 12v to spare my coil. i let you know if it works. and yes gr5 i have a multimeter

[*]RELAY, PCB, SPDT, 12VDC, 10A[*] Product Range: OMRON - G2R Series [*] Coil Voltage: 12VDC [*] Contact Current: 10A [*] Contact Voltage VAC: 250V [*] Contact Voltage VDC: 30V [*] Contact Configuration: SPDT [*] Coil Resistance: 275ohm [*] Relay Mounting: Through Hole [*] SVHC: No SVHC (20-Jun-2013) [*] Coil Current: 43.6mA [*] Coil Type: DC [*] Coil Voltage VDC Nom: 12V [*] Contact Current Max: 10A [*] Contact Voltage AC Nom: 250V [*] Contact Voltage DC Nom: 30V [*] External Depth: 13mm [*] External Height: 25.5mm [*] External Width: 29mm [*] Mounting Type: PCB [*] No. of Poles: 1 [*] Nom Operating Power: 530mW [*] Operating Temperature Max: 70°C'' [*] Operating Temperature Min: -40°C [*] Relay Type: Power this are the specifications of my used relay. today i disconnect the two wire's brown and blue from the motherboard and connect those wires from the coil to a 12V battery loader and again no switch!! do i something wrong? or is it broken? and when it is broken can someone advise me witch relay i must chosen? i always order at webshop Farnell i appreciated all your good helps guys

1 i have remove the second diode 2 i disconnect the brown and blue wire and measure 19V on the contact and the led light up but still no relay switch!!

oke i have build the marlin firmware and change the options ''template'' , ''choose options'' , and ''heated bed temperature sensor'' the rest i don't change. and load the HEX file in cura. now cura display the the bed temperature but the relay don't switch and the bed stay cold

hello, i have made a self build heated bed for my ultimaker original, and connect all the electrical components like the scheme i have also selected the option heated printer bed (self build) in the configuration wizard and set it to 70 Celsius degrees but when i hit the button start print in cura the relay don't switch and the bed stay cold?

illuminarti your right, when i push the feeder with my finger, the wheel come inside the body (see picture) and i tightening the screw from 14 first to 11,5 now. it looks like it helps a bit the gapes on the top are less the second thing that i will make better is my belt tension. when i watch the movie about belt tension i realize mine is to soft but the problem is there is no space any more to tighten it with the screw its on the end en the screw eats a little in the wood (see picture)

i was forgot to tell that the print on the picture is printed without cooling it is because my transistor is blown and a new one is in order. (i think that's why it pillows on the top) i check the distance of the spring and it is 14mm and i can fasten the screw no more than that because the axis from the wheel hit the end. also i had reassembled the part on the foto and check of everything is oke.

first thank you all for the help. today i have make a new print with other settings and i had make some pictures and videos of the results from the test print. first layer http://youtu.be/4T4FaOS2zV8 second layer http://youtu.be/EDxQfAQCEsE as you can see i can only make a solid bottom when i print really close to the platform and extrude enough filament to splash the lines to fill the space between the lines.

hello everyone, every time when i try to print something, the printer lay the lines not close enough together. what results in some little gapes/raster in the top and bottom layer. how can i fix this ?

i found different types on the same number BD679 by Farnell which one i must choose ? http://nl.farnell.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp;jsessionid=GGVEOZRFQOBN2CQLCIQZPQQ?N=0&Ntk=gensearch&Ntt=BD679&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&exposeLevel2Refinement=true&suggestions=false&ref=globalsearch&_requestid=263842

yes i have the blue and purple wire attached under the printer with the 12v battery the cable is oke. i try to order the BD679 darlington transistor replace it, i let you know if it have solve the problem thanks for your fast help

you mean there is maybe a cable break or a not good connected wire?

hello, the fan printhead from my original ultimaker wont work anymore? when i connect my printer with the powercord and usbcable en put the power on i have a voltage of 19V on the purple and blue wire on top of the printhead. and when i start printing the voltage drops to 14V but the fan wont start to drive anymore?? when i test the fan on a 12v battery it works. anyone a idea what is wrong? Roald