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Everything posted by nancy

  1. Argh, I wish I could be there. Alas, I will be refreshing my Twitter feed in Seattle. Looking forward to the big announcement!!!
  2. I've been meaning to do this for a while, but I finally got around to posting the CAD files & assembly instructions to my bag and wallet on YouMagine. The little hinges are printed in place. If you use a heated glass bed (like on Ultimaker 2 or 2+), you can achieve a glossy candy-shell finish. The clasps are magnetic, so they snap shut and open without the need for fumbling to find buttons or zippers. Files & Instructions: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mixee-wallet and https://www.youmagine.com/designs/mixee-bag Photos
  3. I don't think you grasp how little I work out these days. For me, the ideal would be something that I can fit in a backpack.
  4. How much does the small one weigh? I can see using it for demos but if I'm traveling with it, size AND weight are both important. I don't work out and have poor upper body strength.
  5. Ahh, superglue. I will give that a try. It turns out the E6000 holds the magnet together well, I just had to let it set overnight. I will try Epoxy if it comes loose. Thanks for the suggestions!
  6. Hi all, I'm curious what you guys use to glue 1)PLA to PLA and 2) PLA to Metal (magnets). I have been using E6000, which works on PLA to PLA, but I'm curious if you guys have better ideas. I just started trying to use it on PLA to metal magnets, but it seems like it's not as strong, but maybe I'm just impatient and should let it set overnight? Thanks! Nancy
  7. Thanks for the advice. I'm borrowing my friend's UM2 so I'll leave the firmware alone for now. I wanted to use this feature to connect chain links but I'll just insert it stealthily while it's printing the other links.
  8. I don't know--I'm still tweaking the files, I'm trying out different connectors, clasps, chains, etc.
  9. Hi all, I am testing the Pause At Z plugin, and the print head moves to the specified location at the correct layer. However, it goes right back to printing. How do I get it actually pause at Z, preferably with some user input before it starts printing again. I'm printing from an SD card on an UM2. I'm using Cura 14.09. Thanks!
  10. Ahh, never miss an opportunity to show pictures of printers or dogs.
  11. Sweet! I'm glad to hear she liked it. I am making another one. A 4x3 Cross Body version. I miscalculated and the chains were too short. I ended up placing in the end of the printed chain link while an extension was being printed. Ahh.. maybe a photo will explain it better.
  12. I printed this on a borrowed Ultimaker 2 and a Ditto+ printer. I am writing a write up on the design and plan to share the files on YouMagine, but haha, I couldn't wait to share the pictures. This is by far the longest print I've ever done. It was printed in 15 different pieces. I tried to limit my prints to about 3-4 hours each so in case there were crashes, I didn't risk too much lost print time. The triangles could be recombined to make different shapes as well. I'm trying to work out a way to publish the files so they can be easily rearranged to create bags (or whatever) of differ
  13. You want this part completely hollow? What's the wall thickness? I used NetFabb to "fix" this and got a solid object. What you can do in Cura is select 0% infill to print a hollow part. I think the top and bottom should also be 0mm if you want the top/bottom as holes. I would also do a brim support, that prints.. well.. a brim around your object so it adheres to the platform better while printing. I used those settings in this print: http://iama3dprinter.tumblr.com/post/62926508437/julia-vase-002-flow-by-virtox Solid file for your bolt: https://www.dropbox.com/s/aetwjlr49u3a1su/toilet-bol
  14. ... and for those who don't want to click the link, here's a screenshot and an example of the tool.
  15. Hi all, I run Mixee Labs, and we do custom products for 3d printing. Recently, I took some of the libraries we built and cobbled together this extrusion based model editor: http://www.mixeelabs.com/mixeepopper You can scroll down for some examples of models I've made. The UI is still rudimentary. One thing I'm happy with is the "Sticky Mode" button. You can basically put "screws" on objects and move your cursor around to adhere them to other objects in your workspace--try adding two objects and click the "Sticky Mode" button. I found that most of my rotation/movements is getting meshes to s
  16. I've used toothpicks before to clean out clogged boogers. It worked, not sure if it's recommended though.
  17. Unfortunately, I don't have the printer anymore. But I did take some photos from under the printer before I returned it. The motor on the right side looks like it's the z-axis motor. The right side is the front of the machine. Behind the big panel towards the back.. The other panel I had some trouble removing, and since I don't own the printer I didn't want to force it too much. It looks like the other panel hides the display panel. The printer worked great during the week. The only downside is the price, for US customers, it's pretty high and I don't even want to think abo
  18. Yes and no. The Ultimaker 2 I "have" actually belongs to a friend of mine who purchased one of the prerelease units at Maker Faire. I'm printersitting while she's in San Francisco. And regarding the original question, I'm posting a lot because I find the people here really responsive, knowledgeable and nice. It shouldn't be misconstrued that there are so many issues with the printer, at least as compared to other models. The bed is staying fairly level which is a step up from the UM1 that I borrowed for Maker Faire, though that UM1 was in a pop up store printing nonstop for 6 months. Come to
  19. Re: Issue #4 (y-axis scoots midway through print) I applied some sewing machine oil (+1 for living above a crafts store). However, the scooting happened two more times. Once the axis scooted forward, the second time it scooted backwards. Oof, this is unfortunate. I don't want to take apart the side board--this machine is a loan from a friend and I don't want to risk screwing things up too much. @gr5: is the screw I need to reach to tighten the one facing the sideboard (in the the photo on the right below)?
  20. When I do autohome, only the XY axis are affected. Here are some photos of the innards. Some photos behind the white panel of the motors The lower motor on the right drives the extruder. The four screws at the corners of the extruder actually goes into the four corners of this motor. So if you're taking apart the extruder, please also mind the motor. I used blue painter's tape (I have a lot I don't need that now for the build platform) to hold the motor for the extruder up while disassembling the feeder. Feeder (had to take this apart as well to clean out debris after the ABS print) Al
  21. Hi Franz.. I don't have a macro lens (just an iPhone 5), and I only have white and translucent PLA--I was planning on painting some of these prints, so I just got the light colors. Do you still want this printed?
  22. Oh shoot! I didn't subscribe to this thread apparently so I haven't been getting the notifications. :( I'm printing the Nervous System bracelet right now. That one seems like a good challenge.. so many overhangs!! You can watch it livestreamed here: http://iama3dprinter.com After that's done I'll try to answer some of the questions in this thread.
  23. Issue #5: Major stringage on this model: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28123. The GCode looks good (I checked it in Cura + Pronterface). But the blue lines (where the print head should be traveling) seems to still extrude material. I did enable retraction using the pre-released version of Cura. I tried to slice this in KISSlicer but that program crashes everytime I load the the Ultimaker Settings. Not sure why. Printed the solid version of this vase with 0% infill, 100mm/sec, and 0.2mm layers.
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