Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

mikilu

Member
  • Content Count

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Community Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. Yeah you must be right about the buffer underruns, think its because of the bad bluetooth connection. I started this because I saw this video ( ). This guy managed to get it to printing properly. Must have a better connection with only a few meters between his PC and UM.I have already extended the cable to position the HC-06 a bit better, but there is still room to improve. Also installed a android app, can be found here (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.dietzm.gcodesimulator&hl=en) works pretty easy and could help me for the moment.
  2. Well, as my UM sits on the other site of the room I got tired of picking it up to get it close enough to my PC for the USB cable. Mostly for firmware update or sometimes when I needed to fiddle with it. First of all the firmware, I have not been able to load it wireless. The Marlin firmware states that although the communication port is changed to "Serial 3", the bootloader will still listen to "Serial 0". I was hoping it would be listening to both the ports, but for now it doesn't work. I used the following connectios pins: This is not my board but it looks similar, only thing is that on my board the silk contains the text "serial 3" next to the pins Btw, I had to cross connect the Tx and Rx as the order is different on the HC-06 I also tried to print through the bluetooth connection, see the bots. Two Robots printed with the exact same settings, the left one printed using the SD-Card, it looks ok. The right bot is printed using the Bleutooth connection, not that nice (it even looks a bit sad :-P ). The Bluetooth print also took longer to print, and it was stuttering on the outer shell lines. The infill was (strangly) printed fluently?!? Q: Would it be possible to transfer the gcode to the SD-Card and then command to start the print wireless?
  3. I managed to get it working! Connect the bluetooth module to the third serial port, this port only has 4 pins, located next to the connectors for the ulticontroller. I have measured the pins to be sure what is Vvc and Ground. Then get a new set of Marlin files and change the following settings in "Configuration.h" : #define SERIAL_PORT 3 // this is normally set to 0 #define BTENABLED // enable this I have been able to communicate at baudrates of 9600 and up to 115200. Reception of the HC-06 Module is pretty poor, my UM sits about 8m from my PC and the signal is almost at its lowest, next step is improve this a bit. BTW these modules cost about $4 from ebay
  4. Hey, has anyone experience connecting a HC-06 module to their UM1, it should be connected to a serial port and the only free port I could find is "Serial 3". This serial port is powered and I do get the Module to pair with my PC. But I do not get any communication going. I think the UM1 is just not listening to the port, but the other two are occupied by the Ulticontroller. Does anyone know how to connect this Serial bluetooth module. And should I use resistors as explained on some other forum. Any help is appreciated.
  5. mikilu

    ABS delaminating

    When printing in ABS I encounter the following error The ABS is delaminating, I have a heatbed set at 100 degree and I am printing the ABS at 230 degrees. Any tips would be very helpfull as I do want to make ABS my standard printing material. I have read something about Natural ABS but I'am not sure what that is. Thanks
  6. Ok, thanks for the info and the link, it will help a lot. I have contacted the supplier of the AGP-5083, and although it is low stress toolingplate it gets nowhere near the properties of MIC6 plate, they are looking if they can offer me MIC6. any suggestions for MIC6 supplier are very welcome.
  7. Hello guys, nice community going on here!!! after a couple weeks printing on a non heated bed, a heatbed update is my next goal, because I want to start printing ABS. And although having read a lot of post about adding a heatbed I do still have a few questions. Is Mic6 aluminium required, I cant seem to find it in the Netherlands, do people have good experience with more custom Aluminium? I have found this one http://www.hamel.nl/Files/File/documentatie/Alu_toolingplate.pdf, (Alu toolingplate, sorry Dutch datasheet) but it is not exacly the same. Another quaestion I do have is that I read that you have to built your own firmware to get it working, Do I need to add the thermstor to the firmware or are they already incoorperated. I do not have enough experience or time to get into coding... Thanks
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!