woofy

Now, now, Daid. You know you're not supposed to release information on the new sub $200 UM3.

Thanks cor3ys. I did look at that one and thought is was close but short of arms. The 1st arm/hook is printing right now.

cor3ys, That's a great looking spool holder. Are the stl's available? I had a quick look on youmagine/thingiverse and there are lots similar but I didn't see any so nice.

Ah, but you can't see the other side of the room!! :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

As promised in another thread, here's my happy place. And my unique patented filament feed system giving the UM2 box a new lease of life. It's not so good with loose faberdashery filament but works a charm on spooled stuff.

WOW!!!!! congratulations. (but you just p****d off 500 people. )

I'll have to get a picture in the happy corner thread when I get a moment. :cool:

ok, with Mr. Waldorfs picture, now I see how the filament goes. Looks good, the filament still has to go through 90 degrees for the bowden bend though.

Ian, I thought the same thing initially. Where it is I feel is worse than not using it. However if you moved it to where you have indicated, would it be too much of a sharp bend? I have my spool under the table, it sits on a plastic pipe that rests on a cardboard box with notches cutout to stop it rolling off. Can you imagine that. The filament unspools with its natural bend orientated nicely for the bowden tube.

I agree, UM2 print quality is top notch. :cool: Just want it to be faster. @Nicolinux, Please keep us posted on this.

@Nicolinux, I share your frustration on this. My own um2 is a little better than yours but not much. I think maybe now is the time to get it back to Ultimaker. They can compare every aspect of your machine against a good one and get to the bottom of this. @Ultimaker My own suspicion is that there is no one thing causing this, but the cumulative effect of many issues. Maybe the motor may be a bit weaker. Motor current may be slightly low because of component tolerances. Filament grating on the extruder casing. Bowden tube too narrow of too much friction. Maybe an updated hot end design is required. In the end though, whatever is needed to fix this is likely to be new parts that need to come from Ultimaker themselves. With increasing numbers of people on these forums complaining of extruder skipping, hopefully Ultimaker will be able to divert more resources to a solution.

iMakr are claiming to have it in stock. http://www.imakr.com/product/view/ultimaker-2

OK, after a brief flurry into ABS, I'm now back on Faberdashery Arctic White. While extruding I thought here's another way to measure nozzle diameter: Measure the extruded filament. The scale says 0.43mm. Over the length of the fragment I measured between 0.39mm and 0.44mm. Seems my nozzle diameter is ok.

I did the extrusion test again today, this time with Grey ABS from cdwriter. It's the first time I've loaded ABS into my UM2. Almost on the first layers it came unstuck from the platform but the skirt seemed to stop it roving too far so I let it run to completion. The result is a total mess, BUT... .. . . It did run to completion without any skipping of the extruder motor. (258C/104C)

Its not just the speed, its how fast the plastic can be squeezed out of the nozzle. At 0.1mm layer you are extruding 0.1*0.4*50 or 2mm³/Sec At 0.25mm layer you are extruding 0.25*0.4*50 or 5mm³/Sec That is 2.5 times as much plastic every second. You could try printing Illuminarti's extrusion test and see how your machine performs. I think the link is around page 8 or 9 in the thread mentioned above.

Ha Ha! I printed the same rose for my good lady, but as I did it on my UP printer I posted it here: http://www.pp3dp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=44983 :lol:

Hi Kevin, Your printing too fast and your extruder cannot keep up. Your printing at 5mm³/Sec and many of our UM2 machines top out at less than that. Try printing finer/slower/hotter until you find the optimum. This thread should interest you: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3976-almost-always-missing-layers-underextruding/

imakr's £1999 without the VAT is £1666, or €2029. That's only €134 more. Now how much is the carriage from each.

Its not Colorfabb: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1788-plapha-filament/?p=18691 I don't know who they use. I did see some speculation here once but I can't find it now.

Oh I don't feel ignored, there were no questions looking for answers, just posting some observations. I know they'll be read and noted. The side by side result is very much in line with Illuminarti's results way back in this thread in posts #154 and #163. His was with Colorfabb instead of Faberdashery against UM Blue. I think is shows that UM filament is harder to extrude or needs a higher temperature. Apart from knowing it helps to use top quality filament, I'm not sure it helps improve the UM2 much. The temperature results were posted just to eliminate that as a cause. I certainly think the extruder is at least part of the problem and I'm following the "Ultimaker2 Extuder System - Improvements and Ideas" thread with interest.

I meant to post this a few days ago during yet another "Strip The Hot End" (sounds like a Morris dance). I checked the temperatures with a thermocouple probe deep in the nozzle. Temperatures were set manually and allowed to stabilise. TC UM2 17 15 53 50 106 100 158 150 208 200 229 220 257 250 Also checked the TC against steam from a boiling kettle, it read 100C but I think its reading a few degrees high. I concluded there was no problems with the UM temperature control.

Today I had my first batch of Faberdashery filament arrive, so I thought I'd do a side by side extrusion test with UM Blue and Faberdashery Arctic White. Both at 230C UM Blue fails at 5mm/S and Arctic White at 7mm/S

It didn't. British Rail hasn't existed for almost 20 years

I've not tried it, but I think you can already. There's already two profiles there, PLA and ABS and it looks as though you can save a new profile.

Thanks Daid, that did it.