Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

woofy

Member
  • Content Count

    335
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by woofy

  1. Hmm! curious device, it has a light shining on a 128x1 pixel array with the amount obscured by the filament indicating the width, but I'm not quite seeing how it works. Does that work with translucent filaments? Also, what happens if cross sectional area is consistent but it comes to an oval shaped section? Presumably it will increase or decrease the flow depending on its orientation. Does the modified Marlin also track the distance from the sensor to the nozzle and, with the filament speed, calculate when in the future to vary the feed rate to compensate for the width change? Personally
  2. Aw, skint. That really sucks. They should look at that arm and realise what an asset they have in you.
  3. gr5, It's not painter's tape, its Kapton tape. It was Super Grover that mentioned painter's tape. I dip a rag into Acetone and wipe it on an old failed ABS fragment to bring a little ABS onto the rag. The Kapton surface is wiped with that and it puts a fine ABS film onto the Kapton (but make sure you do it cold). It sticks like s**t to a blanket when hot and releases reasonably well when cold. The bed is heated to 110c before printing. I know that direct to glass printing is possible but there have been a few people on the forum mention the glass surface chipping, so I felt the Kapton would
  4. I cover my glass plate with kapton tape when printing ABS. It helps spread the load when removing prints.
  5. Just uploaded a video of my MK1 waterproof quad flying - and crashing.
  6. https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1ASRM_enGB552GB553&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=acetone%20uk
  7. I'm still running with the S2. My daughter has an S5, but its way too big for my tastes.
  8. Or Zortrax, who also void warranty if you use anything other than their filament.
  9. Nothing new here, I seem to have spent my whole life chasing my tail!
  10. He He - Some people just haven't got enough to do. :-P
  11. I think journalists just want something moving for the camera. Look at of the TCT show. At 1.05 you can see a nice example of air printing. Presumably the HEPA filter works by inhibiting filament flow :rolleyes:
  12. Didier, I was thinking the same thing last night. I was at the TCT show yesterday and spent some time on the E3D stand, Their V6 hotend looks interesting. The default uses a 12v heater and the UM2 24v. They can supply a 24v heater but its 40w against UM2 25w. Its only another 625mA, I would hope the UM2 power supply could cope with that. They use a thermister for temperature sensing, the UM2 uses a PT100. Farnell sells a http://uk.farnell.com/ist-innovative-sensor-technology/p0k1-161-6w-b-010/sensor-pt100-600-c-class-b/dp/1266922 that looks as if it could be clipped to the block. Then there
  13. They have a lot of very interesting technology there. My first reaction to the locked in filament was a way to rip-em-off! However looking at their spool prices its not too bad at 41.50/kg compared to the 49.71/kg I pay for OEM filament for my UP printer. Its way more that the 27.27/kg I pay Faberdashery for my UM filament though. (All prices are GB pounds).
  14. E3D have the Kraken four nozzle head in beta.
  15. I agree, I have a voltage/current monitor for the APM and telemetry link on order as well. (Also have a https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=62530 too, but it's not getting fitted until I stop crashing). Do you use a mode 1 or mode 2 transmitter for your quads?
  16. Take off weight is 0.8 kg. I have no idea what the flight time will be with 1300mah. There might be space for two batteries with a few changes but its quite cosy in there. I will continue using it as a practice machine. I have a better https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__56052__HKPilot_Mega_2_7_Flight_Controller_USB_GYRO_ACC_MAG_BARO.html on order. I think I will eventually need a better radio as there are not enough switch options on the one I have for mode selection on the new controller.
  17. I decided to have a go at building the waterproof quad I illustrated earlier. These are the parts I ordered for it: Hobby King 2.4Ghz 6Ch Tx & Rx V2 (Mode 2) Thunder QQ Super - Multi-Rotor Flight Controller Multistar 2212 - 920KV Multi-Rotor Motor Set w/CW and CCW Threaded Shafts (4pcs/box) MultiStar 10-4.5 (CW Rotation) Multi-Rotor Prop slot (DJI) Style Hub (pack of two) MultiStar 10-4.5 (CCW Rotation) Multi-Rotor Prop slot (DJI) Style Hub (Pack of Two) Afro Slim 20Amp Multi-rotor Motor Speed Controller (SimonK Firmware) Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 3S 45~90C Lipo Pack This turned o
  18. Because if you define it as a variable, it is stored in memory. The processor has to go and fetch that value before it can use it. That's another instruction cycle which takes time. Not much extra time, but in critical code - it matters. When it is a #define, the value is known at compile time. The compiler can build the value into the instruction so it does not need a separate fetch cycle.
  19. Thought you knew what a quadcopter can do? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2itwFJCgFQ!
  20. MrWong, You are absolutely correct about the motors. I could not see a way to waterproof them, so I just thought I'd use cheapish motors. The motor wires will pass through a seal on the way to the ESC's. I use Geomagic Design for the CAD. This morning I generated STL's to feed into Cura and got a shell weight of 410g, including brim and support.
  21. Just another thought, do we really have to pick one design over the other? If there is a desire for both of Erics ideas, why not do both. Maybe we can include foldable arms and wheels. What do you think? @Sander I like the idea to use Github to store the files. I've never used it and its about time I learned to do so.
  22. @Jameshs The plan at the moment is to put the ESC's into the arms, hence the opening to the main body. Hopefully the design will not need high power ESC's that require heat sinking. I was planning to use 20 amp ESC's that have plastic heat shrink around them.
  23. @SanderG That was my first thought and I looked at a screwed together shell, this is the original arm: This has to be designed to be 3D printed, so the narrow end studs have additional support. We need 28 screws and studs which adds up to a fair bit of extra weight. According to Cura the cost of the glued design is about GBP9.78 using Faberdashery clear (uses 410g including brim and all support) . I think that's pretty good against a ready made shell such as this one which costs $119 and is also effectively a one piece design. Also I think the design is likely to be fairly fluid. If it
×
×
  • Create New...