chuck-yanke

Try putting build plate in refrigerator or freezer. They pop off

I have been playing with HueForge. You change filament at given layers to create colored prints. Is there a way to start with extruder #1 and at a given height switch to extruder #2. I know both will be have to be AA. I could manually insert a filament change in the G-code for extruder#1. I was trying to automate it. the switch. I do not want to have to create multiple stls and merge them.

I am in market for S5 but am afraid as soon as i do it's upgrade will come out, especially with no apparent upgrade path from the current S5. I got burned buying a U3 just before the S5 came out. Its been 7 months since the S7 was announced. What do other's think?

The new S7 looks awesome. When will the S5 get all the new upgraded?

is the engineering profile available for Ultimaker 3E or only S3?

Thanks for link Chuck

I tried to update from 4.3.3 to the current firmware version and the screen on the U3 is messed up. I reflashed the the firmware with the micro SD card and same result. I can not find the recovery image for 4.3.3. Can some one point me to the location to download it? i went to Ultimaker site they have 4.7x but that does not help. I even replace the Wifi card as that has been a problem in the past with no success.

Check out TUSH - The Ultimate Spool Holder I have printed several of them and they roll very easy and can be adjusted to any spool https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2047554

Yes, gr5 has great support. Can not recommend highly enough. Very knowledgeable

Go to https://thegr5store.com/store/ he has complete kits to covert. Also Bondtech has extruder for 1.75

Does any one know of a high quality scanning company in the USA?

It may be those teeth are not sitting on the build plate. As a test lower the teeth a mm or so and reslice.

Cann’t you manual level to set distance and tell it not to reset?

Talk to GR5 he can help with the 1.75 and U3. Bondtec can make special feeders for 1.75

Has any one tried these guys for bowden tubes? They claim even less friction https://www.captubes.com/

Torgier I love the article! Can you take a pic of how you attached at both ends? Did you get carbon rod on Amazon?

I have been experimenting with not using the tower and using Cura's suggested settings. There seems to be a balance of temperature at the start and end of a print session before it switches to the other print core, this determines how much leaks out when the other head is printing. Is this your experience? In addition the length and speed of retraction also seems to make a difference and is different for PVA and PLA. Do you ever modify them?

Thanks Kman. Are you using the standard .4 nozzle? Just to confirm and the standard ultimaker setting that come in Cura?

I to have been struggling with the tower also and it breaking off part way up. It seems like such a waste of material and time to increase the size and wall thickness to keep the tower from breaking apart. kmanstudios I have seen you post a couple times that you do not use the tower. Could you give us a couple hints how you do this. When I lower the temp the nozzle sometime freezes and the retracts do not seem enough.. I know i am missing something in set up or settings. Thanks in advance

How do you decide what temperatures to use for a new filament? Not just the print temp but Inital Final Standby is there a print file you can use or just look at Ultimaker products that are close?

Attached are two pics of two twin towers next to each other. This is the first time I have seen this, what can cause it? Details: U3 Core 1 Maker Geek PLA , .6 nozzle, layer .15 layer, 1.75 mm filament Print temp 225 Initial temp 230, Int print temp 215, Final temp 210 Core 2 Ultimaker PVA, .4 nozzle, layer .15 layer, 2.85 mm filament Print temp 220, Initial temp 225, Int print temp 210, Final 205 Could this be a retraction issue?

Thanks for help. It worked just like you said

I have a U3 and a 3D Solex AA core with a .6 nozzle on it. How do i tell Cura i have a .6 core? It does not give you that as an option

Having followed this thread from the start I’m confused. Do these chips make prints better or not?

Neotko What did you use to cool your drivers and how did you attach them . Could you take a picture? I have a U2+ and would like to upgrade it. thanks