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About fnorkn

  • Birthday 01/01/2015

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  • Field of Work
    R&D / Exploration
  • Country
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2
  1. Cheers thanks, will try it out soon and report back. First I need to try out a PEEK setup I am currently implementing....
  2. Hi DaHi8 Yes that is is exactly what I want. I have a single nozzle that has 2 filament inlets and 1 outlet (nozzle) (like the 3D builder by Code-p west). The extruders share the same heater, but have 2 seperate heatsensors (I did not want to hack the hardware too much). As long as T0 has a standby temperature that is the same as the operating temperature, the heat settings of T1 do not matter much. But when using M109 the software starts to poll T1 heatsensor, and it is just a little too low, it will wait for ever, causing a big belting hole in my prime tower. But as the heaterconnector of T1 is not used, it will wait forever, as it it trying to reach the set temperature by PWM-ing an non-existing heater. This would all be solved if it just sets T1 temperature with M014. (or setting T1 temp 10 degrees lower as I do now). The difference in measured temperature between T0 and T1 is usually not enough to cause a heater-error (Marlin will think something is wrong when extra heating does not raise the temperature within a certain amount of time) The Simplify 3D slicer allows for using just 1 heater with 2 extruders (!), but I stopped using this slicer, because somehow the gcode is not resulting in correct prints, and I don't want to try to figure out why.
  3. Hi Don't know if this is the place, but I have problems with my printhead waiting for the temperature to be reached during T0 and T1 switches... Would it be possible to add an advanced option to Cura, something like "don't wait for temperature during nozzle switch" which replaces all M109 commands with M104 commands when switching nozzles? Cheers.
  4. I removed the varistor and the capacitor. When I measured them again, detached from the board, the values were OK. So the problem is a short circuit somewhere else. Could be the atmega chip, perhaps the USB input ports are fried... Desoldering this chip is not something I am really looking forward to, and if I need to replace it , I probably need to flash the eeprom, program, "fuses" , boot-loader (?) etc (I am used to PIC microprocessors, atmega seems to have its own way of doing things)
  5. Hi I started a thread about a busted sensor earlier, solved that problem by replacing an opamp. I think the cause was a shortcircuit on the usb port. Now I want to upgrade my firmware by using the USB port, but it is no longer responding. Not to worry, I have purchached an AVR programmer and successfully downloaded the firmware from the chip using ICSP1, so I can change the firmware. But I would like to get the USB connection working again. Just for the hell of it. I did some measurements, and want to check with you guys about assumptions. Here is the pic of the board (the blown coil L1 is bypassed with a piece of copper foil) : Here is a piece of the documentation: Now I assume that R8 and R9 are varistors, and are there to lead away spike voltages on the datalines to ground? R9 is not conducting according to my multi-meter (good) but R8 is 33 Ohms. So D- is not getting through to the atmega 16u? So I think I should remove it, and see if the USB connection will work again? Also, C6 seems to be busted. It is connected to the evaporated L1 coil, so I checked it out. It should be 1 uF according to documentation. The multi-meter says it has infinite capacity, which usually means it is blown. Indeed, I measure 3.4 Ohms, not good for a capacitor. I am not really sure what the UCAP port does, it does not seem critical to me for USB communtication, but I could be wrong? Suggestions are welcome!
  6. This one is new for me: I only saw sparks when plugging in the USB cable. Perhaps check with Ultimaker support? Could be there is 24 volts on the frame. The white plates have a small layer of aluminium underneath which conducts electricity....
  7. So I promised a photo of my handiwork. Probably the absolute horror of SMD experts: sputtered soldering metal and misaligned chip, but it is my first time and I goddamn hated the experience. It is all so tiny, even a magnifying glass is hardly helpfull. Anyway, it did solve my problem, so my conclusion is that the opamp was busted.
  8. Update (for anyone having the same problem): I measured the output voltage for the 3 opamps, attached to the 3 heatsensors (temp1, temp2 and heatbed). One of them did not generate a voltage like the other 2. I ordered a replacement opamp, and yesterday I had time to solder it on. The SMD chip is hopelessly small, but everything went fine. I also replaced a capacitor, but that was probably not necessary. Long story short, after replacing the faulty opamp the Ultithing booted up correctly! I put Kapton tape where the board switch and power connector go through the housing, so no more sparks there. I will post a picture if I don't forget.
  9. Yeah, did that already. All 3 are 110 Ohms... (heater1, 2 and heated bed) And like I said, when I hooked up my new board, but not screwed onto the ultimaker, it booted fine. The problems (again) came back when I installed it onderneath the UM. I think the comparator-chips that are attached to the heat sensors have been fried. The specs say that they are sensitive to static charges....
  10. I recompiled the firmware with a more fun error message , and explaining the root cause for my sad adventures: max temp reached. Which is bogus: same message with or without sensors attached.
  11. fnorkn lives in the Netherlands. Still working on it. I bought a replacement board from China, I plugged all the cables in WITHOUT attaching it to the machine... it booted up just fine. All green across the board. Then I thought: success! Attach the mainboard and continue tweaking my dual filament head setup. But the frame of the UM2 is some sort of plastic laminated with aluminum.. So when I turned on the power, I saw some red led lighting up (hard to tell, you're looking at the bottom of the PCB), and sparks where the USB connector apparently touches the frame. Now it is giving me the same error as the original PCB (I guess the inductor is not really a critical part ): heater error. I guess the electronics that measure the heater-sensors are fried....again. Looking at the board, I suspect it is a triple layer : top, middle (hidden) and bottom. This stuff is above my pay-grade. Perhaps I will purchase an open-source 3d printer-board and hook it up, see if I can make it work...
  12. Thanks gr5 It is L1 indeed, an inductor (coil) ? Got a link for a component list? I need to know the inductance and stuff so I can solder on a replacement, see if that clears things up... (don't think so but hey...)
  13. Does anyone know what has been burned away here? I think it's a SMD component labeled L1 or something. I keep getting Temp Sensor errors when starting up with this fried puppy. :(
  14. Hmmmm Thanks for the input! I had the laptop running on batteries, and it still sparked. Tried another usb cable as well...still sparks.... My hous has an "aardlek"-fuse so if any current would be leaking from the mains to earth, it would trip.... I will investigate further this evening.
  15. So I have successfully uploaded custom firmware for my UM2 a couple of times before (getting my dual printhead to work), but now something wonderful has happened... The printer works fine, but when I connect the USB cable from my laptop or computer to the UM2 USB port, the metal shield of the plug gives off sparks ! Fireworks! W00t! The cable also gets warm pretty soon. The upload fails, off course. Any ideas what may be wrong? Or how to solve it?
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