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  1. Hello all! My PT100 temp sensor has broken and as it's nearly impossible to get a spare one here in Brazil, Im trying to use a 100K Glass Thermistor. I've tried all the different 100K variations in the firmware, without success, only weird temperature readings. Is it possible to use it? If yes, how to make it work? Thanks in advance!
  2. Pode usar 3mm que não há problema. A única preocupação que você deve ter é de especificar o diâmetro do filamento nas configurações de material da máquina. Faça várias medições do diâmetro com um paquímetro (umas 10 em 3 ou 4 metros de material), e tire a média. Este é o valor que você vai usar. Abs!
  3. Olá pessoal! Tenho uma UM2 há mais de um ano. Passei por toda a curva de aprendizado do mtmvetultimaker mas talvez com uma dificuldade a mais: Era uma unidade de pré-produção cheia de pequenos defeitos, semi-nova. Comprei na Makerfaire NYC em 2013, depois de convencer o pessoal da Ultimaker a deixar levar uma das máquinas do stand após a feira, rsss. Durante muito tempo tive problemas sérios de underextrusion e superaquecimento. Mas o pessoal de lá sempre foi muito solícito e resolvemos juntos todos os problemas. Hoje tenho a certeza que foi a melhor Impressora 3D que poderia ter comprado.
  4. @gr5, are you George? If yes, you probably don't remember (lots of people have visited UM booth), but we've already met at 2013 Maker Faire! At that time, I was looking for my first prosumer printer and your UM2 demo convinced me to buy one instead of a Makerbot. I had to persuade Martijn to sell one pre-production unit after the end of the event. (And, honestly, It was the best decision I've made) It will be a pleasure to see you and the UM team again as well to know Simon. I've sent Simon an email a couple of days ago, but haven't received a reply yet. What I really need is some spare
  5. Any chance to buy spare parts for UM2 there?
  6. I will! Can't wait to be there and buy my next Ultimaker ;-)
  7. Thank you guys! The models are about 12cm high and everything was done with UM silver filament. I printed it in parts, than primed and painted. The silver base was also sanded, so I could get rid of the lines. The settings aren't rocket science: 25mm/s, 20% infill, 0,1mm, 220C, 50C bed temp and line support (30%). Finding the right angle of each part on the bed helped a lot! The mesh is a fabric. I think that nor an SLA printer could do it. @SandervG, Do you remember that UM2 you sold me at the end of Maker Faire NYC? That's what our little robot is doing!
  8. Another job for an office furniture factory... The most challenging job so far!
  9. Maybe my best project so far... Trophy for Corinthians (brazilian football team) blood donation campaign. Alessandro, FIFA 2012 world champion team captain, will be honored with the gift. 120 micron layer height, 0,8mm tickness, 0% infill, 230°C, 30mm/s outer shell, 60mm/s inner shell, support enabled. Heart (real human size) Printed in translucent orange (chinese) filament, then primed and painted. Base printed in UM black filament. Total printing time: 19h
  10. For me, it works very well (even better if you combine w/ 60C heated buildplate).
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