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oswaldo-salzano

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Everything posted by oswaldo-salzano

  1. Hello all! My PT100 temp sensor has broken and as it's nearly impossible to get a spare one here in Brazil, Im trying to use a 100K Glass Thermistor. I've tried all the different 100K variations in the firmware, without success, only weird temperature readings. Is it possible to use it? If yes, how to make it work? Thanks in advance!
  2. Pode usar 3mm que não há problema. A única preocupação que você deve ter é de especificar o diâmetro do filamento nas configurações de material da máquina. Faça várias medições do diâmetro com um paquímetro (umas 10 em 3 ou 4 metros de material), e tire a média. Este é o valor que você vai usar. Abs!
  3. Olá pessoal! Tenho uma UM2 há mais de um ano. Passei por toda a curva de aprendizado do mtmvetultimaker mas talvez com uma dificuldade a mais: Era uma unidade de pré-produção cheia de pequenos defeitos, semi-nova. Comprei na Makerfaire NYC em 2013, depois de convencer o pessoal da Ultimaker a deixar levar uma das máquinas do stand após a feira, rsss. Durante muito tempo tive problemas sérios de underextrusion e superaquecimento. Mas o pessoal de lá sempre foi muito solícito e resolvemos juntos todos os problemas. Hoje tenho a certeza que foi a melhor Impressora 3D que poderia ter comprado. Hoje além da UM2, tenho uma UM Original+ adquirida agora em setembro na Makerfaire 2014. Ambas funcionam praticamente 24h/dia atendendo meus clientes tanto para prototipagem quanto de produção de peças sob demanda, praticamente sem perdas. Desde já, recomendo um fornecedor brasileiro de filamento 3mm muito bom: www.tato.ind.br Estou a disposição para ajudar no que precisar tanto aqui, quanto no grupo do Fergazz no Facebook. Boa sorte para quem está esperando a sua UM chegar. A espera vai valer a pena! Fiquem à vontade para me adicionar no FB: https://www.facebook.com/osalzano Abraços a todos! Oswaldo www.nido3d.com
  4. @gr5, are you George? If yes, you probably don't remember (lots of people have visited UM booth), but we've already met at 2013 Maker Faire! At that time, I was looking for my first prosumer printer and your UM2 demo convinced me to buy one instead of a Makerbot. I had to persuade Martijn to sell one pre-production unit after the end of the event. (And, honestly, It was the best decision I've made) It will be a pleasure to see you and the UM team again as well to know Simon. I've sent Simon an email a couple of days ago, but haven't received a reply yet. What I really need is some spare parts for my UM2 (nozzle kit, bowden tube, oled display). It would be great if I could buy them at Maker Faire! I will also take the opportunity to buy my second UM (an Original or the new product will be announced, if I can persuade Martijn again .
  5. Any chance to buy spare parts for UM2 there?
  6. I will! Can't wait to be there and buy my next Ultimaker ;-)
  7. Thank you guys! The models are about 12cm high and everything was done with UM silver filament. I printed it in parts, than primed and painted. The silver base was also sanded, so I could get rid of the lines. The settings aren't rocket science: 25mm/s, 20% infill, 0,1mm, 220C, 50C bed temp and line support (30%). Finding the right angle of each part on the bed helped a lot! The mesh is a fabric. I think that nor an SLA printer could do it. @SandervG, Do you remember that UM2 you sold me at the end of Maker Faire NYC? That's what our little robot is doing!
  8. Another job for an office furniture factory... The most challenging job so far!
  9. Maybe my best project so far... Trophy for Corinthians (brazilian football team) blood donation campaign. Alessandro, FIFA 2012 world champion team captain, will be honored with the gift. 120 micron layer height, 0,8mm tickness, 0% infill, 230°C, 30mm/s outer shell, 60mm/s inner shell, support enabled. Heart (real human size) Printed in translucent orange (chinese) filament, then primed and painted. Base printed in UM black filament. Total printing time: 19h
  10. For me, it works very well (even better if you combine w/ 60C heated buildplate).
  11. Olá amigos! Moro em São Paulo, Brasil e falo português. Também tenho uma UM2 e terei a maior satisfação em contribuir aqui no forum. Um grande abraço a todos, Oswaldo
  12. That's a new material called Filacloth. It's nice to touch, ultra light and you can dye it like nylon! Just kidding... I've asked for a seamstress to make the pads for me, since my sewing skills aren't that good. Thanks for the compliments, guys!
  13. My first job for a client :smile: 100 pieces of a miniature couch. Over 150 hours of almost work non-stop, plus priming and painting, but it was worth it. Modeled in 123d Design and texture applied using 3D Coat.
  14. Hi Nicolinux! Try to change layer thickness to 0.1 or less and speed to 20 and see if the banding persists.
  15. It is, indeed! last week I solved a serious clogging problem this way. There was a crust of carbonized material into the nozzle of my UM2. I had to repeat the procedure about 15 times, but now it's completely clean. The PLA flows like butter.
  16. Folks, I think I've caught the problem! It's overheating Yesterday I began my print day at 9:00 AM and managed to print two owls in sequence without any issue (aprox. 4 hours of printing job). But at the third print, the problem came back and very marked. I've killed the job and observed the following 15 minutes after. The noises were decreasing in intensity and frequency until stops completely. I googled the issue and found some similar cases from other brands' customers. Most of them reported the same symptoms and the cause as overheating in the z step motor. I realized that at night problem occurred less frequently. My wife raised an hypothesis: "When the ambient temperature drops". At this time, the temperature in Brazil is about 35C during the day and about 20C at night. So, I found this page at UM Wiki: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_build_guide "Tuning the stepper motor drivers On the little stepper driver boards (see picture on the right) that are inserted into the electronics, there are trimpot's that can be screwed clockwise or counter-clockwise. The pre-mounted Ultimaker stepper drivers come pre-configured with a sane setting, but you might want to tune it to work better in your climate. Below are some instructions. If a stepper board overheats, it will shut down for a short while, leaving the motor alternating bewteen a powered and unpowered state. This means they are overpowered and/or undercooled. You should lower the power setting by turning it counter-clockwise, slightly. For the extruder motor, you might experience this as a clicking or ticking sound, like in an old antique clock. To know exactly how much you've turned it up, please turn it counter clockwise first. It will go until about 7:30 O'Clock, where it reaches a stop. The top is half-way" Just to test the hypothesis, I managed to reproduce the issue by printing non-stop again. When the pops came again, I put the printer, while it was working, on a table support and a fan below it. I've also I took off the electronics cover: Today, my UM2 worked for about 10 hours straight, with the fan below and... BINGO! No pops or layer skips at all. I'll keep an eye on it and maintain this topic updated but the problem seems to have been solved. Thank you, guys, for all the help! BTW, i'm thinking to make a fan mount to cool the z motor.
  17. Thank you for the suggestions, gr5! Tomorrow morning I'll get some more videos and post here. ;-)
  18. I'm sure it comes from the z-axis. Sometimes when it pops louder, the buildplate goes down about 3 or 4 mm and the UM begins to extrude material "in the air". In the first video, at 0:43 I interrupt the print job and the pops remain. I also have the underextrusion issue (I managed to isolate the problems) and it prevents me from printing at speeds faster than 50mm/s (even with .1mm layer, 220C and UM original filament, for example), with the tension on the filament set to the minimum. But, while I don't have time to solve, I can cope with this by printing slower. Probably it's something related to the spring tension inside the extruder drive.
  19. Hi! I'm experiencing an issue a month now with my UM2 that's that is ruining almost all my prints. The z-axis begins to pop and jump layers. Just take a look at the video below: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7NtNiWWN4Y Curiously, the pops remain even after stopping the printing job. Sometimes I have to turn off and on or in some cases reset to factory settings to stop the problem. In this other video, you can listen to a loud pop at 0:06 and 0:36 (the interval between the pops can vary from one print to another). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sULpAoDkTcY The problem happens in about 2 of each 3 prints and it's almost impossible to detect the conditions under which it appears. No matter the layer height, temperature, speed or filament I use, the issue persists. Here's an example of the print result (In this case, using the UM original PLA blue filament). (Owl statue from Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18218) I've bought my UM2 at the Maker Faire NYC, in september. Maybe it's one of the pre-production units, right? Can anyone help me to solve it? I have a couple more issues with my UM but... one at a time. This one is driving me crazy! :(
  20. I've got great results with NovoFine insulin needles with diameter 0.25 or 0.33mm You can find it at any drugstore, works fine and you have less risk of damaging the nozzle.
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