donidu

Bin gerade noch einmal über den angesprochenen http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3561-ultimaker-2-extruder-nozzle-blocked/?p=27354 gestolpert, in dem sich gr5 zu dem Thema äußert, aber ich vermute er spricht nur Englisch.

Wenn sich keiner meldet, tue ich es mal, obwohl ich auch keine Detailkenntnisse habe: Hier im Forum wurde in irgendeinem Thread erwähnt, dass sich die Extruderkonstruktion des UM2 grundlegend von der des UM1 unterscheidet, der meist als "Original Ultimaker" bezeichnet wird. Beim UM2 sind Nozzle und Heizelement wohl fest verbunden, wenn es stimmt, was geschrieben worden ist.

Ist das schon länger her? Aus der letzten Produktionscharge (Filament war zwischenzeitlich vergriffen) habe ich ca. Anfang letzter Woche auch ein 5+1 Paket PLA-Filament von iGo 3D erhalten und bis auf das Transparente erst einmal alles auf Vorrat gelegt. Wenn es mit der Charge Probleme gibt, müsste ich alle Filamente ausprobieren. Mit dem transparenten Filament habe ich allerdings gute Ergebnisse erzielt.

Ever seen the commercial spot of Pearl for their mass-market oriented 3D printer? The moderators state seriously that everyone can easily print whatever needed in almost no time. If the handle of a coffee pot falls off while the coffee is already running through the machine or a heel of your pumps got lost – no problem anymore because the replacement part can easily be produced by anyone right away now. I just try to visualize the face of an average noob trying to operate a CAD program in an attempt to quickly construct such an object :eek:.

Good idea! I've already found out that heat can be problem when working with PLA when I tried to smoothen the surface of a printed object with small drillng machine (Dremel). Although I did not put much pressure on the grinder, the surface meltet and became quite bumpy, so that I rather took a piece of sand paper to do it by hand. For the drill holes I'try use a sharp drill with little pressure, low rpm and I'll lift it every second. We'll see what happens.

Wow, have a look at the photo! I had to work long yesterday, so I couldn’t do much testing and further optimization, but I printed the white gear wheel with parameters based on Daids recommendation. The diameter is 9mm only and it looks very good. The black gear wheel and the black nut and bolt are the objects that I have tried before with the setup mentioned in my earlier posting. For my project I can scale up the gear wheels, so I believe it will work. The tapped holes are not so important as I can drill them manually, but even this could be possible with this parameters. I think in my first test mainly the printing temperature was too high for the small surfaces and the heated bed was counterproductive, as the little black gear wheel looks a bit melted already. Here are the parameters I used for printing the white gear wheel, if anyone needs it too: Material: ColorFabb PLA white, layer height 0,06 mm, Shell Thickness 0,4 mm, infill overlap 10, heated bed 0°, temperature 200° Celsius.

Hi, for my robotic projects I’d like to print small gear wheels and some parts with tapped-holes. However, my first attempts with simple items which I printed just for a test were not very promising: Nut and bolt (8 mm, a little more than 1/4 inch): thread looks creepy, but nevertheless I was able to screw the bolt with some force into the nut Gear-wheel 10 mm diameter (about 3/8”): teeth look quite coarse , not useable The material was PLA and I used the default setting of the UM2, print mode ‘high quality’. I know there are a lot of other parameters that can be changed but maybe someone here can give me an advice which parameters to change first or let me know if it is realistic to print gear-wheels or threads of this dimension at all. Tom

When I replace the bowden tube which was damaged when I tired to remove the plug, I found also the probable cause of the problem. When I followed a loose wire in the printhead I found that it leads to the third fan. So your assumption was right. The fan on the reverse side was not connected and hopefully the problem is fixed now forever.

Thanks for the hint conderning the third fan. I am going to check this when my printer is working again. I hope to receive the replacement bowden tube before the weekend and I'll see if I manage to get everything in place again.

Hi, I would like to know if you had the problem with the PLA-plug in the bowden tube with an ultimaker 1 or with the ultimaker 2? I am having the same issue with an ultimaker 2: About 1 cm of the PLA-Filament showing to the hot end seems to be butted or swollen. Unfortunately I damaged the bowden tube when I unsuccessfully tried to get the filament out with a pliers and a rod, so my printer is out of operation now .-(. It happend when I printed an object with the minimum layer height and I wonder if the slower material feed could have caused that the filament became weak at some distance from the hot end because it had more time to heat up? Tom

Ah, okay. I thought I am doing something wrong.

Hi Daid, I am dreaming of printig circuit boards for electronic components. This could be realized i.e. with a second extruder that draws the tracks with something like the conductive silver which is use to repair connections on circuit boards. I believe there would be a great demand for the first afforable printer with the feature. Tom

Hi, I have received my new Ultimaker 2 printer yesterday and I have made my first test last night :-P . After some printouts directly from the SD memory-card I printed an self-constructed object via USB using Cura 13.10 which worked fine as well, unless the object was finished. The extruder didn’t move away from the point it finished printing so that the hot nozzle melted the part of the model where it stopped. I didn’t do any further tests with Cura, as I did not want to damage anything. The Objects have been constructed with ViaCAD and exported in STL-Format. Do I have to embed somewhere a kind of "move-away-command" in the code or did I do anything wrong? Thanks for any help Tom