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  1. Jep... But without the electric part. I used calcium chloride for drying...
  2. I found an online copy of "Polymer Handbook" that has some interesting data on Polymers. I learned from it that HDPE is soluble in many things but only above 80°C. Maybe you want to have a look at it. It is about 1000 pages long but could prove useful. It is also free... Zelda: http://www.toarplast.co.il/linksPage/HandBook.pdf
  3. I used to dry my filament, but haven't seen any improvement compared to humid filament. Plus i had problems with cracking filament (as gr5 already mentioned) and especially dried PLA is very brittle after being stored in the dehumidifier for a few days. Posted here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3327-exsiccator-for-dry-filament/ I had to throw away about two pounds of Filament, because the first half of it cracked to pieces and the other half was useless for printing, because it was rolled up so tight that it rubbed inside my PTFE-tube, causing friction => extruder slippi
  4. Hey there some months ago i posted a CAD-modell of some test specimens for tensile strength tests on Thingiverse. Today "Vestro", posted a reply with some measurements he made. As you can see the orientation of the print is very improtant. (plz. correct me if i am posting anything wrong) The minimum force you need to crack a printed part in x- or y- direction is twice as high as the force required to tear the layers in z direction apart. Also the elongation before breaking is almost three times higher in x,y-direction than in z-direction. It has been known before that z-layers are the we
  5. Okay, so after a few months I am back on this problem. Here is my current Marlin setup concerning the PID-values and ranges. -You can see that i significantly reduced the PID_MAX and BANG_MAX to one fourth of its original value (255) and even that seems to be too much still. -Also changed PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE. This is what made the PID Autotune stop. Thanks Daid :wink: -The PID-Values are what i got from running M303 P150 C10 #define PIDTEMP #define BANG_MAX 64 // limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 255=full current #define PID_MAX 64 // limits current to nozzle while PID
  6. Hey I want to play around with the steppermotor-current again. In the UM-Wiki it is said that one should not tune the potentiometer while running in Laid-back mode without cooling. Does that mean I...: - ...should not print anything while tuning the potentiometer (which would be crazy) - ...should not turn on the printer while the fan is not attached (that would make it impossible to directly measure the reference-voltage on the steppers. i would have to take them out and measure one after the other) - ...can turn on the electronics but make sure that neither the fan nor anything else is
  7. I like this thread. I was having the same idea as i was designing an adapter for my E3D-Hotend (I had bought the direct-extrusion type, not the bowden type one). It sits where the bowden tube goes in (as Burki said). One end grips into the upper part of the E3D-heatsink and the other holds a M6-nut where the tube is attached. One could easily redesign it to hold a strain gauge. Maybe cut it into two halves and glue over the gap using two gauges. I also have uploaded the .scad-Files on thingiverse (yeah, still not really into youmagine, mea culpa). http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:163856
  8. Ich bin auf ein interessantes Paper dazu gestossen. Es wurde im November 2012 in PLOS ONE veröffentlicht. Hier der Link: http://www.plosone.org/article/info%3Adoi%2F10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0049365 Darin wird ein Filament beschrieben das auf Ruß :wink: ) versetzt wurde. Was dabei rauskam war laut Paper ein niederohmig leitdenes Filament. Gemessen wurde ein Widerstand von 0,1 bis 0,01 [Ohm/m] an einem Würfel von 5mm Seitenlänge. Das Rezept wird auch im Paper beschrieben. Für mich klingt das ziemlich ähnlich wie das China-Filament, das oben diskutiert wurde (und das scheint ziemlich schlecht zu
  9. Daid: How is HIPS toxic? Could you tell us more? I always thought it was FDA compliant and safe for food processing... ? http://www.plasticsintl.com/datasheets/Polystyrene.pdf
  10. Software only. I think this is enough. At least the guy in this video above shows that it is possible. I don't know if autoleveling is implemented into my Marlin, but it is possible to do so and has been done already: https://www.matterhackers.com/news/automatic-printer-calibration-update Also Gcode commands G29-32 refer to autoleveling-procedures. http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code
  11. **g** no YOU started it!!! But back to topic. Has Ultimaker any intentions to deal with Saturn or MediaMarkt. A few of my relatives are thinking about getting their own 3D-printer and that Conrad-Printer doesn't seem too reliable to me. I alway thought that 3D-printing is being hyped these days (is that the correct word for it?). If people who take their first shot at rapid-prototyping and spend much money on a non reliable printer, which gives them bad performance they will never again try another one. This will ruin the market for ultimaker and also have a great impact on the... well... l
  12. I am trying to get a fully automatic bed-leveling because i want it to be able to print remotely. I want to set up a slicing server where you can send you .stl file and have it printed without even being there... Like a regular printer.
  13. @Drayson: Das mit den Rollen muss man halt wissen, und vermeiden, aber dann ist das keine Gefahr mehr.... Ich lager' alle meine Rollen schon seit Monaten im Trockenschrank und ich hatte nie wieder mit sowas Probleme. PLA wird zwar spröde davon, aber wenn das bedeutet dass ich es jetzt auf Dauer lagern kann ist es mir das wert. Ausserdem kann man -falls diese Sprödigkeit für irgendjemand ein Problem sein sollte- das Filament ein paar Tage vor dem Drucken ausm Trockenschrank rausnehmen, damit es wieder Feuchtigkeit aufnimmt und biegsamer wird. Schöne Feiertage auch aus Karlsruhe
  14. Ja, das war ich mit der zerstückelten Rolle. Wenn ihr euch einen Trockenschrank bastelt, dann schaut dass ihr kein Filament auf größere Rollen aufrollt, als auf die auf denen ihr es gekauft habt. Ich hatte das Problem mit PLA von MeXhibit, das ohne Silica-Gel verschickt wurde. PLA scheint sich beim Trocknen zusammenzuziehen und spröde zu werden. Das Zusammenziehen führt dazu dass sich das Filament auf der Rolle spannt und die Sprödigkeit sorgt dafür dass es unter dieser Spannung zerspringt. Hier das Original Topic mit Bildern: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3327-exsiccator-
  15. Yep. I got myself a Filastruder for that purpose. Will arrive at the end of january.... sooo excited.
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