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Everything posted by jumpmobile

  1. Jep... But without the electric part. I used calcium chloride for drying...
  2. I found an online copy of "Polymer Handbook" that has some interesting data on Polymers. I learned from it that HDPE is soluble in many things but only above 80°C. Maybe you want to have a look at it. It is about 1000 pages long but could prove useful. It is also free... Zelda: http://www.toarplast.co.il/linksPage/HandBook.pdf
  3. I used to dry my filament, but haven't seen any improvement compared to humid filament. Plus i had problems with cracking filament (as gr5 already mentioned) and especially dried PLA is very brittle after being stored in the dehumidifier for a few days. Posted here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3327-exsiccator-for-dry-filament/ I had to throw away about two pounds of Filament, because the first half of it cracked to pieces and the other half was useless for printing, because it was rolled up so tight that it rubbed inside my PTFE-tube, causing friction => extruder slipping => underextrusion... :sad: Lesson: drying your filament could make sense in theory but there are many other things to consider.
  4. Hey there some months ago i posted a CAD-modell of some test specimens for tensile strength tests on Thingiverse. Today "Vestro", posted a reply with some measurements he made. As you can see the orientation of the print is very improtant. (plz. correct me if i am posting anything wrong) The minimum force you need to crack a printed part in x- or y- direction is twice as high as the force required to tear the layers in z direction apart. Also the elongation before breaking is almost three times higher in x,y-direction than in z-direction. It has been known before that z-layers are the weak points of any printed objects, but i find it interesting to see that the factor is about 0.5 of original (?) tensile strength. I asked Vestro to post what filament he used. If the seller provides a datasheet (and we assume that the vendor hat its product tested instead of just guessing its properties) we could determine how much strength loss there has been from original filament to the printed form. Thanks to Vestro for making this...
  5. Okay, so after a few months I am back on this problem. Here is my current Marlin setup concerning the PID-values and ranges. -You can see that i significantly reduced the PID_MAX and BANG_MAX to one fourth of its original value (255) and even that seems to be too much still. -Also changed PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE. This is what made the PID Autotune stop. Thanks Daid :wink: -The PID-Values are what i got from running M303 P150 C10 #define PIDTEMP #define BANG_MAX 64 // limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 255=full current #define PID_MAX 64 // limits current to nozzle while PID is active (see PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE below); 255=full current #ifdef PIDTEMP //#define PID_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port. //#define PID_OPENLOOP 1 // Puts PID in open loop. M104/M140 sets the output power from 0 to PID_MAX #define PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE 200 // If the temperature difference between the target temperature and the actual temperature // is more then PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE then the PID will be shut off and the heater will be set to min/max. #define PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX 64 //limit for the integral term #define K1 0.95 //smoothing factor within the PID #define PID_dT ((16.0 * 8.0)/(F_CPU / 64.0 / 256.0)) //sampling period of the temperature routine // If you are using a preconfigured hotend then you can use one of the value sets by uncommenting it // Ultimaker #define DEFAULT_Kp 6.75 #define DEFAULT_Ki 0.42 #define DEFAULT_Kd 27.80 The problem is still there but it is not as bad as before. The overswing was reduced to 7° when I set a target temperature of 210°C as shown in the screenshot i attached. (Ignore the small dent after set-temperature is reached. It is because my tempsensor fell out...) I have tried to run M303 again to get rid of that -even tried manual tuning- but it didn't help so i think i have to live with this. :-/
  6. Hey I want to play around with the steppermotor-current again. In the UM-Wiki it is said that one should not tune the potentiometer while running in Laid-back mode without cooling. Does that mean I...: - ...should not print anything while tuning the potentiometer (which would be crazy) - ...should not turn on the printer while the fan is not attached (that would make it impossible to directly measure the reference-voltage on the steppers. i would have to take them out and measure one after the other) - ...can turn on the electronics but make sure that neither the fan nor anything else is moving (as this may lead to some part of the electronics heating up and failing due to lack of cooling) Link to the above mentioned page: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_build_guide Greetings Jump
  7. I like this thread. I was having the same idea as i was designing an adapter for my E3D-Hotend (I had bought the direct-extrusion type, not the bowden type one). It sits where the bowden tube goes in (as Burki said). One end grips into the upper part of the E3D-heatsink and the other holds a M6-nut where the tube is attached. One could easily redesign it to hold a strain gauge. Maybe cut it into two halves and glue over the gap using two gauges. I also have uploaded the .scad-Files on thingiverse (yeah, still not really into youmagine, mea culpa). http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:163856
  8. Ich bin auf ein interessantes Paper dazu gestossen. Es wurde im November 2012 in PLOS ONE veröffentlicht. Hier der Link: http://www.plosone.org/article/info%3Adoi%2F10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0049365 Darin wird ein Filament beschrieben das auf Ruß :wink: ) versetzt wurde. Was dabei rauskam war laut Paper ein niederohmig leitdenes Filament. Gemessen wurde ein Widerstand von 0,1 bis 0,01 [Ohm/m] an einem Würfel von 5mm Seitenlänge. Das Rezept wird auch im Paper beschrieben. Für mich klingt das ziemlich ähnlich wie das China-Filament, das oben diskutiert wurde (und das scheint ziemlich schlecht zu funktionieren), wobei das China-Filament aber ABS als Grundstoff verwendet. Vielleicht ist das ein Fehler? Warum findet man so viele Artikel über dieses leitende Filament und wie es "die Welt des 3D-Druckes verändern wird", und gleichzeitig so wenig Beispiele für tatsächliche Anwendungen? Alles wovon ich gelesen habe waren diese Kopfhörer die man drucken kann, aber viel mehr gibt es anscheinend nicht. @Johnny Bischof: Hast du dein leitendes Filament inzwischen ausprobiert?
  9. Daid: How is HIPS toxic? Could you tell us more? I always thought it was FDA compliant and safe for food processing... ? http://www.plasticsintl.com/datasheets/Polystyrene.pdf
  10. Software only. I think this is enough. At least the guy in this video above shows that it is possible. I don't know if autoleveling is implemented into my Marlin, but it is possible to do so and has been done already: https://www.matterhackers.com/news/automatic-printer-calibration-update Also Gcode commands G29-32 refer to autoleveling-procedures. http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code
  11. **g** no YOU started it!!! But back to topic. Has Ultimaker any intentions to deal with Saturn or MediaMarkt. A few of my relatives are thinking about getting their own 3D-printer and that Conrad-Printer doesn't seem too reliable to me. I alway thought that 3D-printing is being hyped these days (is that the correct word for it?). If people who take their first shot at rapid-prototyping and spend much money on a non reliable printer, which gives them bad performance they will never again try another one. This will ruin the market for ultimaker and also have a great impact on the... well... let's call it "maker-movement"... I think it is UMs duty to save german users from cheap printers and offer them inexpensive, good ones instead.
  12. I am trying to get a fully automatic bed-leveling because i want it to be able to print remotely. I want to set up a slicing server where you can send you .stl file and have it printed without even being there... Like a regular printer.
  13. @Drayson: Das mit den Rollen muss man halt wissen, und vermeiden, aber dann ist das keine Gefahr mehr.... Ich lager' alle meine Rollen schon seit Monaten im Trockenschrank und ich hatte nie wieder mit sowas Probleme. PLA wird zwar spröde davon, aber wenn das bedeutet dass ich es jetzt auf Dauer lagern kann ist es mir das wert. Ausserdem kann man -falls diese Sprödigkeit für irgendjemand ein Problem sein sollte- das Filament ein paar Tage vor dem Drucken ausm Trockenschrank rausnehmen, damit es wieder Feuchtigkeit aufnimmt und biegsamer wird. Schöne Feiertage auch aus Karlsruhe
  14. Ja, das war ich mit der zerstückelten Rolle. Wenn ihr euch einen Trockenschrank bastelt, dann schaut dass ihr kein Filament auf größere Rollen aufrollt, als auf die auf denen ihr es gekauft habt. Ich hatte das Problem mit PLA von MeXhibit, das ohne Silica-Gel verschickt wurde. PLA scheint sich beim Trocknen zusammenzuziehen und spröde zu werden. Das Zusammenziehen führt dazu dass sich das Filament auf der Rolle spannt und die Sprödigkeit sorgt dafür dass es unter dieser Spannung zerspringt. Hier das Original Topic mit Bildern: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3327-exsiccator-for-dry-filament/
  15. Yep. I got myself a Filastruder for that purpose. Will arrive at the end of january.... sooo excited.
  16. So finally I get to do this: Here is a picture of the whole assembly: Mechanics: I have redesigned daids fanduct, to take up the Hall-O-board into a cavity on the bottom and also take up a small magnet on its inside (see pic) thus keeping magnet and sensor-fiel at a constant distance. (rotate this image 180°. The black Thing is the fan, the silver thing is the magnet) I replaced the aluminium sheet of my heatbed with a piece of scrap metal (ferromagnetic) from my workshop (I only attached it with three screws to the wooden board, instead of using all ten screws). You can see how bent it is. The hotend was unmounted during the test to get the sensor as close to the bed as possible without touching it. Electronics: I powered it with the 5V powersupply of a former phone-charger. The signal was measured with a multimeter of this type: The whole setup gave me an signal of 1.73V which remained very stable because the magnet had a fixed distance from the sensor field. What i did: My goal was to asses the relation between signal voltage and bed distance. I moved the bed up until it was close to the fanduct/sensor (see pic above), which caused the signal-voltage to drop from 1.73V to 1,408V (first series) or 1,29 respectively . From there on i moved the platform down in 0.1mm steps using the ulticontroller option for moving the axes. i noted the signal-voltage after every step. I did four series of measurements. After the first series i had to readjust the z-endswitch which caused the signal values to drop. Data: Y-axis: Signal voltage X-axis: distance of bed in mm Conclusion: The first two steps from 0 to 0.2mm ate the most important ones. Here we have a signal drop of more than 0.02V per step. Gr5 pointed out that the arduino could measure differences of 0.005V precisely, so according to that we could split each step into four steps of 0.025mm each. Theoretically this should be enough to precisely level the bed without having to touch it. The setting with the fixed distance should give out enough resolution. Further steps: As Daid said: resolution is not as important as repeatablilty. Mounting the sensor to the fanduct does not really ensure a stable environment for the measurement. I mean if a failed print gets pinched between bed and moving printhead the whole assembly will get tilted and from then on give wrong results. Also I want to eliminate the need for a fan on the printhead by using a crossflow fan. Therefore I will try to mount the sensor to the printhead i am designing. This should increase repeatability. Also i will try to get my hands on an oscilloscope to see the form of the output signal. Perhaps changes in printhead-directions or heating-current have an impact on the signal. So far Jump
  17. I ran another test today, will upload pics and data as soon as i find the time, but now we have a "meeting". Have tightened the Fanduct. The accuracy seems to be better now. Maybe it is works with hall-sensors after all...
  18. Hi Menno I haven't yet read the manual thoroughly, so i have nothing to suggest. Just wanted to say, that you do a very important job. At my university I regularly give seminars about 3D-printing and I have to explain how Cura works, which isn't easy for me as i use it on daily basis and often can't understand what problems the newbies have when they use it for the first time. To have a real manual for this powerful software that explains its installation and use step by step should really save me time and make the beginners more confident. Thanks.
  19. Hmmm... Does it do something when current to nozzle is definded as well for the bang-bang mode as for the PID-mode? // PID settings: // Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang. #define PIDTEMP #define BANG_MAX 255 // limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 255=full current #define PID_MAX 255 // limits current to nozzle while PID is active (see PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE below); 255=full current It also seems that a change in PID-Values does only change the behaviour of the hotend if it is to hold a given Temperature. When i run Autotune it just heats up with full power even though i have used P0 I0 D255. I will set BANG_MAX to 127, compile, flash and run M303 again. Here is a screenshot that illustrates my problem: First i ran M303 to 50°C, which led to 100°C overshoot (as before). Then i let it cool down to 55°C and set the Temp to 65°C. That Temperature was never reached because the majorly altered PID-Settings i have mentioned are now used. Greetings Jump
  20. I had to install a Firmware i built with ginges Marlin builder, because of the EPCOS NTC i am using. I think the PID-Fix should be in there. I can't verify that the power-cycle bug isn't active, because i am not at my university right now. But if the power-cycle-bug and the Ulticontroller-PID-bug are propably not the reason, what is it then? P.S: I have checked the EEPOM with M501. It held the settings i had given it...
  21. Yeah, right. I meant M301. edited this... thx That thing about the powercycle i haven't tried. I will as soon as i get back on the printer. And no i wasn't using the ulticontroller to set the PID-Values. I have one connected though.
  22. I have followed your routine for five steps and ended up at: P0 I0 D110 Same problem of massive overshoot and Autotune abort. I also tried negative values: P-18.3 I-0.76 D110 I give up for the weekend. The strangest thing is that even with negative or any other values the hotend seems to be capable of holding one set temperature, if i use the Cura-Print-dialogue to set it. This clearly isn't a problem of the PID-settings. Otherwise i would have seen any change in the behaviour of the hotend as i changed the values. These PID-Values i entered seem to change nothing. Although i stored them in EEPROM already which is -i assume- the "harddrive" of the Arduino.
  23. Thanks Gr5 for the quick answers you are always helping... :smile: In the meantime i have tried several other settings all with the same result of massive overshoot. e.g. M301 P1 I0.1 D100 gave the same result as M301 P18 I100 D10 and everything in between. I will start over and try your algorithm to see if this works better, but i am starting to think that this hasn't to do anything with the PID-Controller.... Otherwise the massive changes i made should have shown at least some effect (e.g not even reaching target temperature as described in at the end of this http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning), but it was always the same... The heating cartridge ishttp://e3d-online.com/RepRap-Spares-Electronics/RepRap-Heater-Cartridge: http://e3d-online.com/RepRap-Spares-Electronics/RepRap-Heater-Cartridge
  24. I have a problem concerning PID Autotune. Story: I have installed a E3D-Hotend with smaller heatblock and an EPCOS 100k thermistor with 4.7K pullup. The temperature measurements look good so far, but when i try to run PID_Autotune with Cura it won't stop heating until the Hotend reached 20°C above goal temperature. Then it just aborts with "PID Autotune failed! Temperature too high". First I thought that the PID-Values from my Ultimaker bigger heating Cartrige/Thermocouple/bigger Heatblock/Fan-Setup differed too much from my new setup: smaller heating cartrige/EPCOS/smaller Block/no Fan. I thought that the overshoot was just to big and tried to tune by hand to a setting, where the overshoot wouldn't be that bad. But i have tried many different values (each one with higer I-Value and lower PD-Values) and didn't suceed. Question: What else can I do to reduce overshoot, than just increasing I and decreasing PD. Data: Original PID: >M301 P18.30 I0.76 D110.03 1st try: >M301 P18.30 I3 D110.03 2nd try >M301 P10 I3 D100 3rd try: >M301 P10 I5 D100 4th try: >M301 P1 I100 D1 and so on.... Here is my Tempgraph. Read the comments in the picture for clarification. Edit: I have found the exact same problem on reprap-Forums. Hasn't been solved there either :-/ Greetings Jump
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