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jason-hk

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  1. I would like to say thanks to all the guys supporting and choosing the kits. We did not have any experience about making and delivering products previously, so all of this is a little overwhelming. As the product roll out we made (or will make) several improvements based on user feedback. 1. the connector of the first batch tends to break off just like the post above, the latest version has much larger soldering pads to ensure strength. 2. the cable provided is too short, this may also add stress to the connector and make it break. So we will increase the length of cable. 3. the relay module has quality issue and tend to burnt, so we will replace it to a much more robust relay module which is rated for 30A and is equally easy to install. In the coming batch of production, the Aluminium plate will be 3mm thick instead of 2mm, this will add weight but will improve the flatness consistency. I really thank the early birds who bought this product when the first couple of batches rolled out. Your support and feedback is crucial for us to improve and continue. If users of early versions have problems please contact us for support (ebay/email). Best regards,
  2. HI It already supports 3 point levelling, there are 6 extra holes on the 2 edges, there is one hole in between the UM's default screw holes on each edge, they can use for 3 point levelling.
  3. Thanks for all the support from UM users, the first batch sold out quickly. A new batch of heated bed is ready to ship now. For the new batch we increased the size of the soldering pad for the connector and now it is much tougher now. A 0.8 meter long extension cable is now included in the kit as the default cable is likely to be too short for most users. We also rolled out a glass kit containing a borosilicate glass fitting the HPB and some accessories. It contains following stuff: 1x Borosilicate Glass (3x220x240mm), ensure flatness. 4x Wire Clips for holding glass plate, light and very convenient to use. 4x Mini Clamp for holding glass plate, strong and sleek. 8x Silicone cushion, for protection of the heated bed when using clamp. 4x Stiffer springs (to replace the original springs) , less springy and easier to tune. 4x Metal leveling knobs. 1x Reversible heat sensitive sticker, for quick visual indication of print surface temperature. ( Turn red from black when over 55C, so ppl know when would be safe to touch) Best regards,
  4. I did more testing by power the heat bed and the machine using a single 350W PSU and the heated bed is getting the power from UM1's heated bed terminal. I found that the power connector and switch part could get quite hot after some time, so they are actually not rated for large current usage. After finding this, I recommend ppl to stick with the relay for both single or dual PSU operation. I have also updated my listing to tell ppl not to directly plug into the heated terminal but to use the relay. my UM1 motherboard is a 1.5.7 version made by a third party manufacturer. By the way, thank you for all the support and feedback on the kit!!!!!! :grin: Best regards, Jason
  5. I have been driving my UM1 with 24V PSU from day 1 and over a year no problem so far. However I did more testing by power the heat bed and the machine using a single 350W PSU and the heated bed is getting the power from UM1's heated bed terminal. I found that the power connector and switch part could get quite hot after some time, so they are actually not rated for large current usage. After finding this, I recommend ppl to stick with the relay for both single or dual PSU operation. I have also updated my listing to tell ppl not to directly plug into the heated terminal but to use the relay. my UM1 motherboard is a 1.5.7 version made by a third party manufacturer. By the way, thank you for all the support and feedback on the kit!!!!!! Best regards, Jason
  6. HI gr5, Thanks for reply and suggestion, I will start looking for some 4.7K resistors and put it in the kit. for power supply, just regular DC Power supply for electronic projects will do, like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-AC-to-DC-24V-10A-240W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Converter-Supply-Silver-/170855720740?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c7cb6724 The surface finish of the aluminium plate is actually capable of adhering PLA and ABS at elevated temperature, but I still put kapton tape on it just to prevent scratching. A glass plate should be ok as well, just take a bit more time to heat up. The heat plate is 24x24cm so if you are put on a glass, it should like 24x22cm as there are screws on the edges. I throw away my masking tape (blue tape) after I got this working as it seems to be useless now. Jason a prototype of the bed with Kapton.
  7. I have been using Ultimaker for while and have been working on developing a heat bed solution for it. After several iterations I finally got something that is pretty neat I think. features of my kit: 1. Complete integration of pcb heater onto the aluminium plate. The heater coil is sealed onto a 2mm Alu plate to provide maximum heat transfer and significant reduction of weight. 2. Fast heating - from 20C to 100C in 5 minutes (24V 10A 240W DC power supply). 3. Integration of power cable and thermistor cable into a single cable plugging onto a pre-soldered 4 pin connector. 4. SMT pre-soldered LEDs indicator and Thermistors. 5. Standard Ultimaker screw hole pattern for drop in replacement and 6 extra holes for mounting onto other repraps. Support 3-point mounting. I ordered a small batch from factory and listing them on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-for-Ultimaker-Reprap-3d-Printers-MK2-PCB-Aluminium-plate-/161157442118? Your comments will be very welcomed. Jason
  8. Hello, I have just updated to latest Mac version of Cura and found when printing multiple objects, they are printed from right to left sequentially instead of printing them together in a summarised layer. (the print head will finish one first, and then move the next one, z axis lower to the bottom layer of next object again) As the objects i am printing are flat, my fan duct on the right side of my nozzle did not hit the finished objects when it is printing. I am just wondering if my objects is higher than my fan, what will happen, will it hit something? I am not expecting Cura tell the print head to avoid hitting finished objects. Should I change my fan to the left side of my nozzle? what if someone have two fans on both side? Regards, Jason
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