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mnis

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Everything posted by mnis

  1. Ich würde weder Aceton noch Isopropanol empfehlen, denn beides wirkt sich langfristig eher negativ auf die Haftungseigenschaften der Beschichtung aus. So habe / hatte ich jedenfalls den Eindruck. Aber egal, denn regulär genügen feine Spachtel-Werkzeuge aus Nylon, um fest sitzende Reste von der abgekühlten Platte zu lösen. Und wenn tatsächlich mal eine Art Grundreinigung erfolgen muss, nehme ich sich schnell verflüchtigende Sprühreiniger wie: Bremsenreiniger oder Elektronikreiniger, die zuvor auf ein fusselfreies Reinigungstuch gesprüht wurden. Und diese Mittel verwende
  2. Hallo @Oli Ich habe wie bereits erwähnt auch dieses eBay-Angebot wahrgenommen, war ja geplant um einen würdigen Ersatz für die alte Platte zu finden. Das was ich erhielt hat mich aber aus nachfolgenden Gründen irgendwie überhaupt nicht zufrieden gestellt. Ich habe soweit auch keine Tests mit der Platte gemacht und eine umgehende Rückabwicklung angefordert. Zudem reagiert der Händler weder auf Telefon-Anrufe, noch auf Anfragen über das eBay-Nachrichten-System. Keine Ahnung was ich dem Händler angetan haben könnte ? Meine Platte sieht optisch erstmal ziemlich genau so wie Deine
  3. I had not considered this. So it may be complicated to use a non-Ultimaker software to manage the printer. It should somehow be possible to integrate the Ultimaker App from outside into a home network using VPN, or something like that? Anyway, I found something here about Ultimaker 3 & networks: Good luck
  4. GCODEPRINTR Perhaps you could find an alternative solution to the problem with this Android app from a German developer. As far as I understand it, the app is able to extend many different 3D printers in connectivity and functionality. I do not have much experience with this app yet, but the feature list is impressive. However, GCODEPRINTR requires at least one old stationary Android device with permanent USB connection to the 3D printer and an additional IP cam app. Here is an excerpt of the product description and the link to the app on GooglePlay: GCodePrintr en
  5. I think it's not really necessary to have all 500+ settings on one or two A4 pages. For most users, the settings accessible on the user interface are probably sufficient as a printable list. Or the plug-in lets the user decide what to print on paper or not.
  6. Oh yes, that's what many users want, I think. But it should also be compact enough to print it clearly on one or two A4 pages. See for example here:
  7. I know a simple solution for Windows users to display the content largely formatted, and thus meaningful to print. The applications already available in Windows 10 are sufficient for this. I have tested the following methods with the general Cura profiles and get up to 100 settings in alphabetical order depending on the Cura version. However, it seems that if there are multiple profiles, it becomes more confusing and there are only deviations from the root profile. Anyway ... maybe it will help you a little ... Cura 3.3.1 (about 100 settings in alphabetical order) Activate and export your se
  8. That makes sense, because in the graphical view you can see how the machine moves and lays optimal tracks. But what is missing from all these calculations is the specific behavior of the chosen filament. I think to calculate this is a very big challenge :-)
  9. @Deve A short review with guesses and suggestions: 2 out of 3 machines do not have the problem with the holes, right? If yes, in this case there is no direct problem with the Slicer Cura ... Increasing the amount of material leads to a better result of the printed objects on the machine with the problem mentioned, right? If yes, a lot of factors could cause this problem, such as: - Incorrect setting of the E-Steps / The stepper motor may make finer steps with 0.9 instead of the usual 1.8 degrees per step, which means 50% less material flow... - The knurled wheel of the feeder may have a sma
  10. It's all good ... Just a little kidding from me :-)
  11. @JCD Thank you for this solution-way, I will definitely try it out soon and give a feedback. But I like these patterns better than crossing lines. The real problem is programming the creation of the concentric lines, which would have to create closed surfaces without fine adjustments just like out of the box, because I think nobody wants it the way it was done at the moment. And as I mentioned at the beginning, it has already worked better once, I believe so. @kmanstudios Your statement has now unsettled me a bit, but trying it out will bring it to light :-)
  12. Yepp, aus ähnlichem Antrieb schaue ich nun auch nach sehr langer Auszeit wieder hier ins Forum rein. Merkwürdig, so langsam glaube ich dass jeder der das Wort Warping irgendwann kennengelernt, und dessen Auswirkungen an eigenen Objekten erlebt hat, früher oder später auf die Idee kommt mit einem löchrigen Druckbett und etwas Saugkraft ein zu druckendes Objekt festzuhalten...Ja auch daran hatte ich hin und wieder gedacht und es nie komplett verworfen... YouMagine war lange Zeit irgendwie seltsam komplizierter als Thingiverse im allgemeinen Handling und so werden meine ge
  13. In earlier versions of Cura 2 ... or was it 3 ... I occasionally printed concentric and I did not notice that such large holes remain. It was obviously only in Cura 3.3.1 ... sad, because I liked to print a few things in this way.
  14. Hello @Nett The simplest solution is possible with any design software. First, you construct your model as usual. And while constructing, you think about which position the model should ideally have later on the buildplate, so that as few as possible to no overhangs are to be printed. In the case of the vase, it's easy and obvious how it should be positioned at best, but on many other things, one often has to make a prioritizing position selection. When your object is finished, you can put it in the slicer for visual inspection and enable the support material options. In the Slicer you wi
  15. Das klingt schon mal sehr interessant, obgleich mir in mancher Hinsicht zugegebenermaßen der technische Tiefgang fehlt. Ich habe halt alles was ich so an Wissen für meine Hobbys benötige im Laufe der Jahre durch sehr viel Experimentieren und Recherche im privaten Umfeld, sowie natürlich überwiegend im Web erlangt. Das technische Verständnis ist gewissermaßen vorhanden, aber in keiner speziellen Fachrichtung ausgereift. Bezüglich Stabilität meiner Konstruktion mache ich mir selbst bei den 20x20 Profilen kaum Gedanken, da es auf jeden Fall ein System mit Bowden-Extruder wird. Bei so
  16. In order to reach all connection plugs and / or to make measurements, full access to the mainboard is required. I think it's not enough to measure only the no-load voltage on the power supply. Unfortunately, I do not know the internal structure of the newer Ultimaker machines. But why go on fiddling? I would request a repair from Ultimaker if there is a valid warranty. But if you can visit a local dealer with your machine, then I would ask to try a new power supply before the return is done. Maybe there is also the possibility to get only a new motherboard,
  17. I suspect that all devices of the Ultimaker 2 family were supplied with a power supply of the same power: 100-240V 4A, 50-60Hz, output 24V DC, 9.2A 221W max. Also the plug to the MainBoard should be the same for all devices. The only exception is the small UM2 GO, because it works without a heating bed. I only have the Ultimaker 2. The information I took from the official specifications of the Ultimaker 2 / Ultimaker 2+.
  18. Have you checked all possible connection plugs for correct fit? At best, remove every single accessible plug step by step and insert it correctly again. Are all cables apparently intact? Reset to factory settings already carried out at least once?
  19. And yes you can try another surface pattern, but it should still be seamlessly closed with any surface pattern. For example, I like concentric surfaces, but these are not properly closed in Cura v3.3.1 in the center.
  20. Although the surface generally looks good, I think there is not much missing to fill these gaps. And if you increase the number of top layers, but each additional layer has these gaps, then it will bring nothing. That's what I think anyway.
  21. Can not you change the material flow during printing? That should be possible I think ...
  22. And to get comparable results, all three printers must work with the same slicer settings. If you have accidentally made wrong settings sometime, it is best to start from scratch again. So slice a small test object for all printers with Cura default settings, and look what happens ...
  23. Yepp, the GCode flavor should be selected to match your machine. But I think it's mainly about the correct number of E-Steps for the extruder, so that in fact enough material is extruded. If your material feeder works well and there is no excessive filament abrasion around it ... then it makes sense to dynamically raise or lower the material flow directly on the machine. Ideally, you should approach the desired optimum of the material flow in 10 percent steps. And watch closely how the printed structures change. This is necessary even if changing the extrusion temperatu
  24. Ja irgendwann hat man vielleicht genug gesehen von all den 3D-Druckern in abertausend Variationen mit doch fast immer gleichem Funktionsprinzip, und es entsteht vielleicht der Wunsch einen Drucker entsprechend seiner eigenen Vorstellungen zu bauen. So hab ich auch irgendwann mal angefangen meinen 3D-Drucker quasi als Neben-Projekt komplett selbst zu konstruieren. Mein Wunschdrucker existiert seit vielen Monaten bisher zwar nur als zu etwa 50 Prozent fertig gestellte 3D-Konstruktion in Sketchup, aber das ist OK für mich denn ich erweitere mit dieser Tätigkeit nebenbei meine Kenntnis
  25. Oh, how "disgusting" that looks nice, I have not seen for a very long time ? At the moment I only have this to offer: Unfavorable settings in acceleration mainly I think. And it's not the best material either. But heck, it's stuck on the platform. And after removing the spaghetti it should be usable. Anyway, the surfaces look acceptable, I think ? Greetings and good luck for next time print.
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