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  1. I ordered the day it was announced from 3D Universe as well, and it showed an expected ship of the 18th at the time, but we'll see. It's good to hear that drofnas' actaully shipped!
  2. Just ordered - I went with 3D Universe (US) as they were showing the fastest expected "ship by" date (3/18). Hope to actually have it before the end of March! I'm also really hoping this is the end of my under-extrusion saga - I've never really been able to print reliably faster than 40mm/s (0.2mm layers), and even then I'm running at 245C and with exclusively Faberdashery filament (tighter filament curvature on the rear spools kills it). I love Faberdashery, but it's quite pricey in comparison to others, and I'd love to be able to use a rear-spooled vs. my floor-fed turntable. Feedback so far sounds promising, and the updates seem to address all these issues, so my fingers are crossed! In terms of the pricing, I've had UM2s since late 2013, so I'm not going to complain that I need to spend 13% of the original purchase price to replace 1/2 of the machine's critical components. Yes, it's a bit steep to fix something that never worked perfectly in the first place, but it's not like Ultimaker did any of this on purpose - and they could have never released this upgrade at all.
  3. As we said before; Don't expect an official release for a dual kit for the 2. There are too much problems to fix (fixing them would require massive redesign of the machine, which is simply not feasible for a kit). Absolutely! I was intending to say that I wouldn't want to spend $X00 on an upgrade kit if there was a $X000 new machine that I would want to purchase instead. The line of logic that follows 'why would I upgrade my old machine if I was to just replace it entirely'.
  4. The plot thickens! I'm now VERY curious about the price of the kit to upgrade my UM2 to a UM2+. Before this, I wouldn't have blinked an eye at something around $300 USD for the upgrade kit, but I would hate to spend that amount to upgrade only to have a UM2+ Dual come out afterwards which would allow me soluble supports...
  5. Interesting! So the conversion kit functionally makes a UM2+ out of a UM2, but it's really a 3rd variant (in that a converted UM2 and a new UM2+ aren't identical). Are there any other deltas you know of aside from the extruder housing adapter plate?
  6. When I originally read about the 2+ on Engadget, I was initially rather upset - but then I remembered Ultimaker isn't Makerbot and found this post including the announcement of the upgrade kit. Thank you for being so inclusive of everyone in the community and not excluding those with a UM2! I will definitely be getting the upgrade as soon as it's available!
  7. Thank you Simon, you've once again saved the day! I've updated my pre/post fixes (below), and aside from the initial table raise, the only thing left to figure out is why when using this code, the extruder motor skips once right before it begins its skirt path. It's not a big deal as long as your skirt is large enough to allow it to re-prime fully. I've tried many different E lengths and F speeds, but it seems to constantly do it no matter how much/little I prime or at what speed, whereas Cura does not, even at lower temps. The full-stop retraction at cycle end should be 21mm, and I'm priming 18mm quickly, then slowly priming another 10mm, so theoretically only 7mm should be getting pushed through. Disabling de-string stops this skipping, so I'm guessing that because of the travel length from the prime spot to the print area it's doing some form of suck and prime, which is running too fast and causes a skip. That said, I plan on dealing with the skip for now since I'd rather not disable de-string. G21 ;Metric Values G90 ;Absolute Positioning M82 ;Extruder to Absolute M106 S0 ;Fans Off G28 ;Home All Axes G1 X5 Y10 F9000 ;Move Head to ~Origin G1 Z20 F9000 ;Raise Bed to Head M140 S<BED> ;Set Bed Temp M190 S<BED> ;Wait For Bed to Reach Temp M109 T0 S<TEMP> ;Set & Wait Head Temp T0 ;Select Extruder 1 G92 E0 ;Zero Extrude L G1 F100 E18 ;Forward 18mm @ 100mm/min G1 F50 E28 ;Extrude 10mm @ 50mm/min G92 E0 ;Zero Extrude L T0 ;Select Extruder 1 M104 S0 ;Head Temp Off M140 S0 ;Bed Temp Off G91 ;Relative Position G1 E-1 F300 ;Retract 1mm G1 Z+0.5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;Drop, Move Head G90 ;Absolute Position
  8. Hi All! After working with the amazing Simon & fbrc8 quite extensively, I finally have a printer that I think I can run without worries of under-extrusion so long as I stick to certain filaments (with more testing to come). I was running KISSlicer back on 14.03, but it's been so long since I've had a truly functional printer that I haven't dealt with the new UM firmware until now. I'm trying to mimic the 14.07 Cura startup sequence, but either I'm missing something or I'm no longer able to override all actions on the printer with 14.07. Basically I have the prefix almost down to decently match the Cura startup. I need to adjust the extrusion prime lengths, but the main issue is that the z-axis raises to ~z = 15mm before my home command even gets reached. It's almost as if there is a "G1 Z15 F9000" in the firmware that is superseding my GCode prefix. The machine will raise to the z height, THEN home all of my axes, which means the startup sequence is: bed up - home bed (bed down) - home head - bed up. Something very similar happens if I simply change Cura to output RepRap/Marlin instead of UltiGCode. My postfix is in even worse shape; it seems to run my postfix just fine after the print (hard to tell exactly due to speed, but what I would expect), but then retracts the filament even further and re-homes the axes again. Here it's as if there is a "G1 E-5 F300" and another "G28" concatenated to my postfix. Is there any way to get the UM2 to stick to just what is in my prefix / postfix, or is the result going back to an older firmware? My prefix code is: G21 ;Metric Values G90 ;Absolute Positioning M82 ;Extruder to Absolute M107 ;Fans Off G28 ;Home All Axes G1 X5 Y8 F9000 ;Move Head to ~Origin G1 Z15 F9000 ;Raise Bed to Head M140 S<BED> ;Set Bed Temp M190 S<BED> ;Wait For Bed to Reach Temp M109 T0 S<TEMP> ;Set & Wait Head Temp T0 ;Select Extruder 1 G92 E0 ;Zero Extrude L G1 F200 E5 ;Extrude 5mm @ 200mm/s G1 F50 E7 ;Extrude 2mm @ 50mm/s G92 E0 ;Zero Extrude L G1 F9000 ;Set Axes Rate My postfix code is: T0 ;Select Extruder 1 M104 S0 ;Head Temp Off M140 S0 ;Bed Temp Off G91 ;Relative Position G1 E-1 F300 ;Retract 1mm G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 ;Drop, Retract 5mm, Move Head G28 ;Home All Axes M84 ;Steppers Off G90 ;Absolute Position Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
  9. Has anyone found a good source for the SY42STH47-1684MA stepper motor? All of the vendors I've found won't sell less than 50 units. :sad:
  10. Is anyone aware of the make and model of the extrusion stepper motor, and/or where another may be sourced?
  11. Hi Bas! I really like the addition of the metal grommet at the entrance of the filament into the feeder housing; a much lower coefficient of friction than plastic/plastic, and no concerns with wear over time! I would be very interested in testing this feeder design to see if it can help my machine get above 6mm^3/s regularly! Danke!
  12. Have you ever removed the bolts on a car wheel, only to find you have to hammer the wheel off because it's stuck to the hub? Two dissimilar metals, as illuminarti points out, can corrode and bond to each other (which is what the aluminum or magnesium wheel is doing to the steel hub). The copper grease here is an anti-seize compound that reduces/prevents galling, lubricates the joint, and prevents the two metals from seizing to each other. I usually only spec the copper version in more expensive delicate machinery, but it's nice to see it here!
  13. Ah! So it is, I was only looking at cross sections and the plastic standoffs on the x/y motors made them look identical to each other. The extruder motor measures at 1.88", the x/y at 1.49in.
  14. I have a habit of finding weird ways to break things in cars; it's apparently carried over! :cool: When the extruder stepper is at full speed with 1625mA during the few millimeters of priming, the motor doesn't skip and lightly chews the filament. When the extruder stepper slows down and is printing the cylinder, it's definitely skipping backwards just as it does in the higher volumetric speeds with lower currents. I have a small red mark on the end of the extruder stepper shaft so I can watch this instead of guessing (it should be almost visible in the video). The extruder motor is the same size as the others, around 42mm a side. I've also uploaded the test files I used here (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/10655012/Test%20Files.zip) just in case I mucked them up again.
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