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Everything posted by das_enginer

  1. I ordered the day it was announced from 3D Universe as well, and it showed an expected ship of the 18th at the time, but we'll see. It's good to hear that drofnas' actaully shipped!
  2. Just ordered - I went with 3D Universe (US) as they were showing the fastest expected "ship by" date (3/18). Hope to actually have it before the end of March! I'm also really hoping this is the end of my under-extrusion saga - I've never really been able to print reliably faster than 40mm/s (0.2mm layers), and even then I'm running at 245C and with exclusively Faberdashery filament (tighter filament curvature on the rear spools kills it). I love Faberdashery, but it's quite pricey in comparison to others, and I'd love to be able to use a rear-spooled vs. my floor-fed turntable. Feedback so fa
  3. As we said before; Don't expect an official release for a dual kit for the 2. There are too much problems to fix (fixing them would require massive redesign of the machine, which is simply not feasible for a kit). Absolutely! I was intending to say that I wouldn't want to spend $X00 on an upgrade kit if there was a $X000 new machine that I would want to purchase instead. The line of logic that follows 'why would I upgrade my old machine if I was to just replace it entirely'.
  4. The plot thickens! I'm now VERY curious about the price of the kit to upgrade my UM2 to a UM2+. Before this, I wouldn't have blinked an eye at something around $300 USD for the upgrade kit, but I would hate to spend that amount to upgrade only to have a UM2+ Dual come out afterwards which would allow me soluble supports...
  5. Interesting! So the conversion kit functionally makes a UM2+ out of a UM2, but it's really a 3rd variant (in that a converted UM2 and a new UM2+ aren't identical). Are there any other deltas you know of aside from the extruder housing adapter plate?
  6. When I originally read about the 2+ on Engadget, I was initially rather upset - but then I remembered Ultimaker isn't Makerbot and found this post including the announcement of the upgrade kit. Thank you for being so inclusive of everyone in the community and not excluding those with a UM2! I will definitely be getting the upgrade as soon as it's available!
  7. Thank you Simon, you've once again saved the day! I've updated my pre/post fixes (below), and aside from the initial table raise, the only thing left to figure out is why when using this code, the extruder motor skips once right before it begins its skirt path. It's not a big deal as long as your skirt is large enough to allow it to re-prime fully. I've tried many different E lengths and F speeds, but it seems to constantly do it no matter how much/little I prime or at what speed, whereas Cura does not, even at lower temps. The full-stop retraction at cycle end should be 21mm, and I'm priming
  8. Hi All! After working with the amazing Simon & fbrc8 quite extensively, I finally have a printer that I think I can run without worries of under-extrusion so long as I stick to certain filaments (with more testing to come). I was running KISSlicer back on 14.03, but it's been so long since I've had a truly functional printer that I haven't dealt with the new UM firmware until now. I'm trying to mimic the 14.07 Cura startup sequence, but either I'm missing something or I'm no longer able to override all actions on the printer with 14.07. Basically I have the prefix almost down to decentl
  9. Has anyone found a good source for the SY42STH47-1684MA stepper motor? All of the vendors I've found won't sell less than 50 units. :sad:
  10. Is anyone aware of the make and model of the extrusion stepper motor, and/or where another may be sourced?
  11. Hi Bas! I really like the addition of the metal grommet at the entrance of the filament into the feeder housing; a much lower coefficient of friction than plastic/plastic, and no concerns with wear over time! I would be very interested in testing this feeder design to see if it can help my machine get above 6mm^3/s regularly! Danke!
  12. Have you ever removed the bolts on a car wheel, only to find you have to hammer the wheel off because it's stuck to the hub? Two dissimilar metals, as illuminarti points out, can corrode and bond to each other (which is what the aluminum or magnesium wheel is doing to the steel hub). The copper grease here is an anti-seize compound that reduces/prevents galling, lubricates the joint, and prevents the two metals from seizing to each other. I usually only spec the copper version in more expensive delicate machinery, but it's nice to see it here!
  13. Ah! So it is, I was only looking at cross sections and the plastic standoffs on the x/y motors made them look identical to each other. The extruder motor measures at 1.88", the x/y at 1.49in.
  14. I have a habit of finding weird ways to break things in cars; it's apparently carried over! :cool: When the extruder stepper is at full speed with 1625mA during the few millimeters of priming, the motor doesn't skip and lightly chews the filament. When the extruder stepper slows down and is printing the cylinder, it's definitely skipping backwards just as it does in the higher volumetric speeds with lower currents. I have a small red mark on the end of the extruder stepper shaft so I can watch this instead of guessing (it should be almost visible in the video). The extruder motor is the sam
  15. I’ve run some more tests with increasing current, and found a rather odd behavior. The print improves at 1.5A, but taking it any higher causes the print to decay rather quickly. 1250mA – Print starts to skip at 6mm^3/s, best was 7mm^3/s 1500mA – Print starts to skip at 8mm^3/s, best was 9mm^3/s 1625mA – Print starts to skip at 5mm^3/s, very quietly 1750mA – Printer skips immediately after priming (video of it a few seconds into the print) 1875mA – Printer skips immediately after priming 2000mA – Printer skips immediately, never primes I ran another 1500mA cylinder after going throug
  16. Hi gr5 - that's good to know, I didn't know if the stepper driver circuitry was different between the 4 steppers, or if it was 4 identical drivers merely being controlled differently. I do agree that there are concerns with the feeder housing and internal friction; I'm actually trying to design my own with a completely "frictionless" path up until the bowden tube entry by making use of grooved roller bearings as entry and exit guides. I'll definitely share for review as soon as I get time to wrap it up and can source some 'reasonably' priced grooved bearings in the spec I'd need.
  17. Hi Sander, This is something I've been looking at closely with the filaments I've had, albeit only 3 suppliers. My Faberdashery filament is the most pliable of all of my filament, but still fairly stiff. The Ultimaker filament that came with my printer is stiffer than the Faberdashery, but the black I got from MakerGeeks is the stiffest of all of them (though not MUCH stiffer than the Ultimaker). This matches the ease of printing with them; the Faberdashery is the easiest, then the Ultimaker, then the Maker Geeks, but this is probably skewed by the Faberdashery having a much larger bend radiu
  18. Okee dokee, I ran the test cylinder at 1.5A, 1.6A, 1.7A, 1.8A, 1.9A, and 2.0A. Then I realized I had flubbed the G-Code hack and had just run 6 cylinders at nominal current because I’d put the M907 in the wrong place, which explains why they all looked basically identical. So I fixed the G-Code, and redid the some of the tests. This time I ran the 2.0A before anything else to make sure I noticed a difference in the printer’s behavior and had gotten the current increase correct. 2.0A – Nothing ever extruded; the stepper shuddered and made an awful noise, but never actually completed more th
  19. Okay, the head has been completely disassembled, cleaned, inspected, and reassembled. PTFE coupler had a 3.30mm diameter entry and a 3.23mm diameter exit; filament passed through it with no problem. The nozzle had a dark finish on the inside, but was still shiny. I took gr5’s advice and tried to burn out anything that could be on the inside, but nada. It did clean up the outside of the nozzle quite nicely though! There was some very minor thread burrs at the top of the entry; I lightly filed everything smooth. Nozzle tip diameter measured using needle technique; came to 0.39mm.
  20. Good question! I'll add this to my list of tests as soon as I have reassembled my head (spoiler: nothing obvious was found during disassembly). How high can I safely increase the current (I saw 2A bounced around somewhere)? I'll take it in smaller steps of course, but I'll see how high I can take the current until I get filament grinding.
  21. I changed my plan a little; to reduce the number of variables that are changing at once, I decided to fiddle with currents before I disassembled the head. Long story short; no dice. The UM blue that came with the printer is still failing at or between 5mm^3/s and 7mm^3/s. No counts of filament grinding since I didn’t exceed 1.5A. Current was increased via M907 E1500 (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/page-3&do=findComment&comment=39581). I'm really hoping I find something taking the head apart again; I've had this thing
  22. That's definitely a possibility, but the UM2 blue is the hangup for me. If others are able to print the test cylinder in the blue that came with the machine, I would expect mine (in a perfect world) to be able to do the same. In the end, the only "good" filament I can print with reliably is the gold; which is where I was basing my hypothesis that the gold is easier to print with than nominal, versus the others being harder to print with. I do agree that the Faberdashery blue will need a higher temp than the gold for future prints, but with it failing at 6-7mm^3/s and already at 230degC, I wo
  23. Good morning Ultimakers! Intersesting turn of events yesterday; I was starting to print IRobertI’s cable chain, and it started to skip like crazy a few layers in. I was running it at 220degC, .2mm layers, and 50mm/s speed. This is only 4mm^3/s, so it should have worked fine given that my test cylinder got through 10mm^3/s with only a single skip. However, my test cylinder was in Faberdashery gold, and I was printing in Faberdashery space marine blue. As such, I immediately aborted the failing print, and ran the test cylinder again. Interestingly, it failed at 6mm^3/s, which was expected given
  24. I don't get why DigiKey does this type of thing. I have a very hard time believing that a fan company has export control regulations setup to prevent merchandise from being exported to Europe (especially when some of the stock fans on the UM2 are Sunon). The Orion plate fans are available to Germany from DigiKey: http://www.digikey.de/product-detail/de/OD3010-12HB/1053-1199-ND/2621104 The PTFE coupler fan should be able to be sourced through TME: http://www.tme.eu/de/details/mc25060v2-a99/dc-lufter-5v/sunon/mc25060v2-000u-a99/
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