r4ix

Hi! I spent a lot of time designing that mount and, honestly, i expected more for e3d hot end. About the mount. left fun needs to be revised to increase the distance from the heater block. I use ultimaker heater cartridge and as it's bigger than the block the fan is too close and it melts a bit. I would like to modify the fan duct so it has variable high, i feel it would be better closer to the print, i can not with my configuration, also the e3d nozzle is very small so i couldn't put the duct closer. As zoev89 i notice with more than 50% fan speed the temperature become unestable. I wouldn't spend much more time in that mount, i think i uploaded About the print quality, i expected to increase the speed for the prints at the same quality or the quality at the same speed but, in my case, i didn't feel like it's better. I print abs (between 250-265º) so i decided to change to e3d but i didn't get any really good improvement. I used befor ultimaker hot end with some mods, as an aluminium cooler in the peek and in the aluminium part in the hot end, it worked very nice, i also drilled the nozzle to 0.7 I wanted to print with 0.8 nozzle and 0.3 layers (i printed 0,3 layers with the old hot end) but I have to say i get stronger parts and betters results with my old modified hot end. I didn't try with pla As a good point i have to say i have a nozzle set to change when i need... I printed parts at 275º without problems. Well, i also have to say i have not spend half time with this mount as i did with the original, maybe for that i'm disappointed with e3d, i expect to change the mount and get better results but you have to spend hundred hours and some material kg to get good results any way. I recommend to modify the original hot end and not to buy another until that is totally damage. I guess maybe there's some problem with modified original at higher temperatures (i used just at 270) and i'm sure there's no problem with e3d even at 300º or more. Has anyone tryed other materials like nylon or polycarbonate?

I update size of fan mounts, the old one was too close to the heater block. Solidworks file on youmagine.

I didn't find significant improvements even with 2.85

Are you from E3D crew? If don't i don't undestand so many compliments. E3D is fine, but is not as marvelous as you said. First of all there are not many mounts for ultimaker and you should deal with the existing ones or design one your self. I choose the second option, it's a long long way and still improving it. I have not been printing too much with E3D cause of the holidays, i still have to test retraction. What i can say by the moment is, for ABS it seems to be great, but not too much difference with the original hot end with the mods i'd done (add a cooler for the PTFE and drill the nozzle to 0.7) That hot end worked great and not very different. the fact is with original hot end i could only print 2.85 filament cause 3.00 (2.95 mostly) clog. I expected to print with 3.0 filament with e3d so i could get from a distributor in my city but i'm not shure it works as good as i expected. Printing PLA is a hell, i try 3.0 filament (i had not problem with original hot end) and i couldn't finish one print. It clogs constantly in the cooler block in e3d. I have not experiment with retraction yet. I spend many time designing the hot end mount and testing and sincerly i expected more improvements from stock (mod) hot end I don't recommend this hot end unless you want to print in ABS mostly and don't want to modify the stock hot end. There aren't big difference between this one and the original one if you add a cooler to the ptfe... I'm still testing it and i will put my impressions with retraction and more pla but i'm asking myself if this was a good investment... i would like to compare with UBIS or othe hot ends.

There's several ways to compile/upload firmware to your ultimaker. you can either get the hex file and upload with cura or use arduino sofware to compile and upload to the board (i don't know if you need to disconect arduino mega from the main board, i never used this option) There's few explaniations of how to compile and get hex file in http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4347-how-to-compile-marlin-firmware/ thread, i think the online option is the easiest one.

With a termistor it shows MAX_TEMP error when there's no signal from it. So you should revise all cable conections from the termistor to the board. With thermocouple you get MINTEMP error when there's no signal, again, i think you have a connection problem in some cable. If you still have connected the termistor without 4k7 in R23 (as it seems in the pic) it won't work any way. So you MUST have 4k7 resistor in R23 if you want to use termistor, if you don't have you should use thermocouple. I don't understand why you couldn't upload the modified firmware. You should do it without problem without disconnect the arduino board. Did you compile via internet with this marlin builder or did you modified configuration.h by your self? You should revise all your cable connections... It seams there's some unconection somewhere... So, if you want to use thermistor sold again 4k7 resistor in R23 and revise all cable conections, modified the firmware and upload with "install custom firmware" in cura If you take out the resistor and upload original firmware you should connect thermocouple again.

It's very important but not catastrophic if you don't do. PID constants (determined by pid auto tuning) adjust the way the function corrects the deviation of the temperature done. If you tune the constants the temperature will become more stable, and this is important! It's a simple process, there's no reason to don't do it. Just send "M303 E0 S200 C8" to the printer, you can do that very easy with printrun (mac, for windows i don't remember the name) the soft give you the constants and you can change them within "temperature" menu in LCD display. Important and easy to do it.

Same problems i found, for this reason i decided to design all the mount. I can upload the solidworks file. Nick's file help me a lot with the process, to do it little bit faster. Which software are you using?

It isn't like this exactly. The hotend doesn't touch the endstops, XY blocks do, but linear bearing fix the position of XY blocks. In original hot end linear bearings are in perfect cross, in nick's, jonny's and mine design are not. This is very important. The nozzle is out of its original place and the block doesn't touch the endstops cause the bearing do it first. It's far away from touching it!! If you look ultimaker from the top the axes make one kross. In jonny's design the hot end could be on the first or on the third quarter (in ultimaker original is on the fourth) that means the nozzle never could have the same position in the bed, so you need adjust the xy endstops and do the printable space smaller or move the bed. I put the hot end in the fourth quarter and even is not in the same position as original is not far away. Even that you must adjust the XY endstops changing the trigger position in the XY blocks. I use ones designed by alan89, in that xy block the endstop trigger is glue so you can set whatever you want. I'm going to design new triggers for this mount and upload to youmagine. I don't know if i've explained my self good enough :???: ...

Some pictures...

They aren't symetrical because the ultimaker heater cartridge is longer than e3d heater block so i decided to use the space between both fans to place the heater (that means the heater cartridge is perpendicular to the 30mm fan) and in this position the heater block is not symetrical. I will put some pictures today. Is first attemp so sure will be some mods...

Hi! I printed, mounted and used it jonnybischof design (thasnks for that and for your awsome documentation!). It's really nice and it works grate, however i find some inconveniences for my purposes. First, i wanted to use a thermocouple instead a termistor with e3d heater block. This is posible if you take out the metal encapsulate from the original thermocouple. You will get two cables with ceramic end, if you take out also the ceramic you'll get a small metal ball, this is the thermocouple in fact. Is posible to use it in the same way than the termistor. Also i print mostly in ABS and i like to use the fan at 40-50% (it improve a lot the prints quality) i have a custom heated bed with glass and clip to hold the glass. Nick's fan duct is grate but it's to close to the bed and it touch the clips. You won't have this problems if you use the original cold bed or other kind of bed. So i've made another design for the E3d v6 hot end. It's integrated (it have the 30mm fan duct integrated, easy to print. It have holes for the thermocouple transmiter and dual fan duct for 40 mm fans. The fans are 4mm from the bed so do not touch the clips. I've designed it to use with ultimaker heater cartridge but e3d heater block. You just have to order metal parts and 30mm fan to mount it. It's still under testing, just mounted it and do it some small prints. I have to test it with long prints, the fanducts are really close to the heater block so maybe them melt. I'm still testing it. Just uploaded to youmagine. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-hot-end-mount. I will add some pictures tomorrow. All suggestions are welcome.

Hi! Sorry i didn't mean to use ultimaker heater block ( i supposed it was not going to work) but um heater cartridge in e3d heater block.

Wow!!! Thanks a lot Jonny. I just received mine yesterday i was wondering to expend few hours/days to get it working. You save me a lot of time!!!! I will print it tomorrow. Just few questions: Is XT stronger than ABS? I print almost exclusively ABS with a heated chamber (i print with bed at 90º and chamber at 60) and i have no warping at all, even with big boxes (185x185) i use to print. But the closed chamber limits the fan duct size. Does it go out from the printer wall? I will use the ultimaker heater with e3d heater block, so the heater is bigger that the e3d one so maybe it touch the fan duct... I mean to redesign fan duct before printing or not. Thanks again. You've done very god job.

Respecto al filamento lo que puedo decir es que la UM1 es bastante puñetera en cuanto al diámetro, al principio tuve muchos problemas de extrusión, capas con "underextrusion" constantemente, me volví loco. Compré filamento de iGo3d y tengo un rollo de pla inutilizable, con abs prácticamente imposible que saliera una pieza entera bien. Econtré una web alemana, reprapsource.com que tienen filamento de 2.85 y compré varios rollos (ABS), es caro (24€, 750gr) pero va fenomenal y desde entonces todo va como la seda, jamás he vuelto a tener "underextrusion"he impreso piezas muy grandes (185x185x150) sin problemas, bueno, otros problemas pero no de extrusión. He vuelto a probar con filamento 3mm, los mismos problemas. Recientemente he visto en esta misma web que han añadido ABS con más colores y más barato (1kg en cada bobina) pero no lo he probado, teóricamente es también de 2.85+-0.1 mm pero me da a mi que es chino (el otro es aleman) y en lo que a homogeneidad del diámetro del hilo se refiere me fío más de los alemanes que de los chinos... Repito, no conozco el hot end (cabezal) de la UM2, pero en mi caso todos los problemas de extrusión estaban relacionados con el diámetro del filamento. Saludos.

Buenas! Si que se puede hacer lo que comentas (no se cómo es el firmware de la um2 pero seguro similar) pero si en la UM1 que usa firmware marlin. En el menu motion (siempre en UM1 hay cuatro parámetros, xsteps, ysteps, zsteps, esteps, son los pasos que da el motor por cada milímetro. De manera que imprimiendo una pieza 50x50x50 o 100x100x100 como comentas, se pueden recalibrar los pasos x y z con una simple regla de tres: nuevo xstep = (valor teórico de x*valor actual xsteps)/(valor medido de x) un poco más engorroso que calibración mecánica pero igual de efectivo. Sobretodo es muy importante la calibración del extrusor para que estruya exactamente la cantidad de plástico deseada, esto se hace de la misma manera que lo anterior pero extruyendo, por ejemplo, 100mm de filamento, midiendo la longitud real extruida y adaptando el valor de esteps. No conozco la UM2, pero no s si vale los 900€ de diferencia con la um1, con 60€ le añades hot bed y si me apuras con 100 más le cambias el "hot end" para imprimir bien abs (un e3d, por ejemplo), aunque haciendo modificaciones al que viene (poniendo refrigerador en el PTFE) yo imprimo ABS sin problema a una velocidad aceptable con el hot end de fábrica con un refrigerador viejo adaptado... No se, creo que no hay esos 900€ de diferencia en lo que a calidad de impresión se refiere y por lo que he leído el extrusor está dando algunos problemas... Saludos.

I found my problem!!! The termocouple in the hot end is reading between 15 and 20 degrees less. So i've been printing too cold all the time ( i thought i was printing too hot) So now is ok and strong enough.

Hi! I'm trying to print a big box (185x185x110) and i would like to get it strong (it's for a portable amp) after a lot of dissapointments, frustations and so on i'm improving a bit step by step, i turn to ABS, hot bed, heat chamber (printing at 62 +-2 degrees) update the nozzle (0.7mm). But i'm not getting it, maybe what i want is not posible, i don't know. For a not too high parts (up to 20mm) even big ones i'm getting zero warping and nice finishing, but printing this box i'm getting nothing but head ache. (Few warping, but i can manage it, but some delamination So, i'm wonder witch are theoretically best settings to get the stronger part possible. I guess: - big layers (i'm printing now at 0.25, i don't know how much could i print with 0.7 nozzle) - slow (printing now at 40mm/s) But what about temperature? It's better to print as cold as possible or hot? I mean, is better print at 235ºC 40mm/s or 260ºC 40mm/s? colder means less shrinking but maybe hotter stick better with the previous layer... Thanks.

I've suffered the same. For me it was random diameter of the filament that blocks in the white plastic part when it was more than 3.00'm. Rai.

Have you try to change the filament? It happen to me the same with a new roll from igo3d. I try everything, then I realise the filament diameter was not constant. It varies between 2.96 to 3.2 and when the thicker part arrived to the nozzle it becomes in underextrusion. Testing and with the hand it works good but not while printing... It's one possibility...

Hi! Lot of things here! Good point! In fact a solid state relay have inside same circuit with triac an optocupler we need for this purporse (to sincronize PID with AC frequency) but could be quiet expensive (20-30€). You are right, but to control temperature like an oven you need an isolated chamber and, by now, mine is just close, but not isolated so i have to be giving heat constantly. Even this i will try with my configuration now, no PID, nothing else just microcontroler on-off, if it works like this is not necesary to change it, i really need now to work on prints and results and stop to be working with the printer, finally i almost invert more time trying to improve the printer that printing... Modify Marlin for this is a hell, i've look at the temperature control files and is a long and hard work and you are right, later with the updates and so on will be a trouble. I've been looking for this but i found nothing... now i'm triggering the heat chamber with a sensor in the bed when the print finish and the bed gets cold the chamber turn off, it's working. Thanks for all this points! As Aviphysics said is better option a solid state relay, it has inside the triac and the configuration is very easy. Don't worry about electronics, there's many people in the forum (included my myself) can help you on that, i can write the circuits and code i use for control temperature. It's not a complicated circuit!!! About your project it looks great!!! I would like to get this organization with some of mine but finally i'm just a little mess. Are you going to print ABS? Heated bed is one good update for the printer and get zero warping, i would consider that option i get mine in a chinesse store for less than 50€ included the pcb aluminium plate for a base, relay and power supply (and now i also used it for leds, and the 4 extra fans i use for air flow and electronics) and is really easy to install. There's a lot of info in the web and we can also help you here. Cheers. Rai.

Hi! I think the point is not just to be hot. Is much more important to be at constant temperature or low variation cause the shrinking rate change with temperature if you have variations of 10-15 degrees your print will not have uniform shape. The idea to control with the second extruder option was nice, but you can't change the PID parameters just for one extruder and change Marlin is not easy, i was looking at temperature control files on it and there's a lot of work to do. You need a Triac to control AC power (it is like a dimmer) and with a microcontroler like arduino is easy to control. I'm using now a relay, but turning on off a 2000w heater many times, relay, heater, and PID control are not compatible, triac is much better. Relay should be nice for a 12v 200w heater, like silicone one, i suppose best is one or two of this silicone heater with an aluminium plates in the lateral walls, there is enough space. I think i will go for it when i have 100€ more to spend. How do you trigger the hairdryer? Because if you plan to do yourself for a 20 hours print should be really annoying. I also started with a hairdryer but have some points to consider, it's too noisy to be trigger every two minutes and the air flow is too high. By now, just today i finish my recycled junk/low cost self temoerature regulated heat chamber and i'm doing some prints. Here there is how it looks like: The outside walls are hard cardboard from the back side of a canvas i found in the rubbish, the up side is made from some plywood i had in the workshop, the front window is the old bed from the ultimaker and the heater is an old heater i had, that ones we use for the bathroom, here are very common. I design the fan ducts for a 40mm fan, double fan and small enough to don't touch the walls: I will upload to youmagine. (also the clips for the walls) , i also put 2 extra fans for the electronics cause it doesn't really like the heat, it becomes 8 degrees down! And also 2 fans on the top to redistribute the heat. To trigger i use that old arduino duemilanove with very simple window (60-63) And here it is one print on the way: All this is very cheap (25-30€, in the sensors, leds, relay, cables... plus the arduino board and the hot bed) and easy to do, only i spend a lot of time. I can explain more if some one wish. All this just because i need to do a serie of 185x185x130 boxes and i was really fighting with that, warping, delaminating and everything else just went away... I'm happy now.... :-P Cheers. Rai.

I think i should post this topic in Marlin thread. Any moderator can change it?

Hi! Recently i build a heated chamber for the UM1 and i use a fan heater for heat it. To control the temperature i though in use the "second extruder option" in the firmware so i can control the chamber temperature with the ulticontroller (Nozzle2) the heater is triggered with a relay (same configuration as the hot bed, also with a 100k termistor. The fact is PID temperature control is enable in firmware. I would like to disable PID control for the second extruder only. I've used the Ginge marlin's builder for the firmware and there is an option for disable PID control, but it does for all the 3 sensors. I guess there's an option in marlin firmware for that. By the way i've been looking at configuration.h in the firmware. I think best option is to modify the PID parameters (kp,ki,kd and window size) for the heater2 (in configuration.h) but i just find the way to configure for both heaters and not separatly... Sure it will be in other ".h" file. anyone knows something about that? Thanks. Rai!

Hi again! Finally I've got a thermistor and i put 4k7 pull up resistor on the temp2 sensor in the main board. I buid a marlin buider for a dual extrusion and now i select the chamber temperature with "Nozzel2 temperature" in ultimaker. The fact is PID temperature control is enable in the firmware and the relay is constantly turning on-off. It's working really good but i think is not good for the configuration being tuning on-off a the heater constantly. I think there's an option to disable PID controller. I going to open a new thread asking for that... Cheers. Rai.