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gbr1

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  1. Hi All, Sorry I replied in another thread! It works really well so I am very happy with the results. I changed the Bowden tube to 6mm OD and 2mm ID and I am using the I Robert feeder. Ultimately are the prints any better, hard to tell but they certainly are not any worse. The big thing for me is my other 3 printers are 1.75 filament so it make stock much easier. Only small issue is overextension in the first few layers which is strange and something I need to work on (or at least figure out why) for now I can contol it in S3D!! If you have any questions please ask. GBR1
  2. Hi All, So I have finally spent some time on one of my UM2's and converted it to 1.75mm filament. I got the 6mm OD and 2mm ID bowden tube from: http://www.charlies3dt.com/...r-6-mm-outer-10-cm-1 Not cheap but the only place I could find it! I printed the I Robert feeder and I am using a 1.75mm/0.4mm hot end from E3D on the Olsson block. To date I have done 4 or 5 prints and they have come out really well, possibly better than with the 3mm filament but hard to determine. Currently printing in Nylon (Alloy 910) and its looking really good so can't complain! I will convert my other printer once I have used up all my 3mm filament. My other 3 printers all run 1.75mm so it will make life so much easier to stock the correct filament! I set up a custom filament on the UM2 to have 1.75mm filament, I also use Simplify 3D for slicing so change the setting in there. Only thing I am seeing which is an issue is over extrusion (not a term normally used on these forums) in the first few layers of smaller parts, easy to overcome by reducing the flow to 90%, but I then need to increase it after, any thoughts on that!? Could be a setting in S3D which I can't find!? GBR1
  3. Hi All, Just wondering if anyone has tried 1.75mm filament with the Olsson Block and a 1.75mm nozzle. I have 3 printers and the other 2 are with 1.75mm filament so I am thinking of converting my UM2 to 1.75. Many thanks in advance.. GBR1
  4. Thanks Labern, I will give those a go. One thing I have done is order some 618 and that (currently) is printing fine. Quite strange, some more time spent changing settings with the 645. Many thanks GBR1
  5. Hi all, Trying to print with Taulamn 645. Trying lots of settings but not getting much luck! Loads of underextrusion. The strange thing is the first layer is always printing really well, then after that flow becomes poor. I restart the print with diff settings and again it prints well until the second layer.. Temp-230-255 Flow everything from 95-110% Layer height 0.1-0.2 No fan Any thoughts welcome. Many thanks GBR1
  6. Hi all, Trying to print with Taulamn 645. Trying lots of settings but not getting much luck! Loads of underextrusion. The strange thing is the first layer is always printing really well, then after that flow becomes poor. I restart the print with diff settings and again it prints well until the second layer.. Temp-230-255 Flow everything from 95-110% Layer height 0.1-0.2 No fan Any thoughts welcome. Many thanks GBR1
  7. I recommend you try From Z, there is a free version Form Z Jr.. IMO, one of the easiest packages to get good quality results with a little training, they have some good you tube videos which help you learn the basics quickly! GBR1
  8. Perfect, thanks for the info.. Make sense now:) GBR1
  9. Hi All, Sorry if this has been touched on another thread I couldn't find anything.. I have noticed with the new version my build plate is all wrong. I think it something to do with the machine settings and build area being square. Now the build plate is not square and why you would want to make it round I have no idea. Consequently I have lost a few cm off the build plate, is there something I have wrong in my settings to change this?? Many thanks GBR1
  10. I have this issue as well. Before I simply popped in my SD card and pressed save, even had the option to eject once saved which was great. Now nothing! Mac Yosemite.. GBR1
  11. So maybe there is a way to change this setting and I haven't found it, but when a print has finished and the display (on UM2) says cooling down it gives you the temperature of the print head and not the bed. Surly it's the temp of the bed that's important (could be wrong, newbie here) as that tells me when I can remove the part from the bed without hopefully damaging it. Does this make sense or am I talking rubbish?? Cheers GBR1
  12. Here u go. Should say that UM support was very helpful as well.. Its hard to make out in the photos but its the main live cable terminal.. GBR1
  13. Hi All, Should start by saying this is now resolved and was a simple problem to fix. I started a print yesterday with my UM2 and all was fine, when I came back to the print at the finish the bed was cold, following that I couldn't get the bed to heat up at all:( I got the volt meter out and checked and there was plenty of voltage going to the bed, when I looked closer and some more testing I could just work out the solder conection had broken. Luckily there is (very randomly) a place just up the road which make circuit boards, I took it to them and 2 min later all was good. I thought I would post this I case anyone else has the same issue as I couldn't find anything about it on the forum which makes me think I was a touch unlucky with this one but as a said an easy fix! Otherwise the UM2 has been working brilliantly and it's been mostly user error;) Cheers GBR1
  14. gbr1

    Nylon on a UM2

    Thanks, I had a good look and on the Google forum as well and didn't see much (if anything) related to the UM2, thats not to say it not there though. Will have another dig. Cheers GBR1
  15. Hi All, As it says in the title, has anyone tried this yet or had much success with it? If so what are you printing on and what temps etc. Are you using Taluman or 3ntr nylon?? I have read quite a lot that the Taluman can be a little to thick for the UM (maybe not UM2) Bowden tube!? Many thanks.. GBR1
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