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Everything posted by gbr1

  1. Hi All, Sorry I replied in another thread! It works really well so I am very happy with the results. I changed the Bowden tube to 6mm OD and 2mm ID and I am using the I Robert feeder. Ultimately are the prints any better, hard to tell but they certainly are not any worse. The big thing for me is my other 3 printers are 1.75 filament so it make stock much easier. Only small issue is overextension in the first few layers which is strange and something I need to work on (or at least figure out why) for now I can contol it in S3D!! If you have any questions please ask. GBR1
  2. Hi All, So I have finally spent some time on one of my UM2's and converted it to 1.75mm filament. I got the 6mm OD and 2mm ID bowden tube from: http://www.charlies3dt.com/...r-6-mm-outer-10-cm-1 Not cheap but the only place I could find it! I printed the I Robert feeder and I am using a 1.75mm/0.4mm hot end from E3D on the Olsson block. To date I have done 4 or 5 prints and they have come out really well, possibly better than with the 3mm filament but hard to determine. Currently printing in Nylon (Alloy 910) and its looking really good so can't complain! I will convert my other printer once I have used up all my 3mm filament. My other 3 printers all run 1.75mm so it will make life so much easier to stock the correct filament! I set up a custom filament on the UM2 to have 1.75mm filament, I also use Simplify 3D for slicing so change the setting in there. Only thing I am seeing which is an issue is over extrusion (not a term normally used on these forums) in the first few layers of smaller parts, easy to overcome by reducing the flow to 90%, but I then need to increase it after, any thoughts on that!? Could be a setting in S3D which I can't find!? GBR1
  3. Hi All, Just wondering if anyone has tried 1.75mm filament with the Olsson Block and a 1.75mm nozzle. I have 3 printers and the other 2 are with 1.75mm filament so I am thinking of converting my UM2 to 1.75. Many thanks in advance.. GBR1
  4. Thanks Labern, I will give those a go. One thing I have done is order some 618 and that (currently) is printing fine. Quite strange, some more time spent changing settings with the 645. Many thanks GBR1
  5. Hi all, Trying to print with Taulamn 645. Trying lots of settings but not getting much luck! Loads of underextrusion. The strange thing is the first layer is always printing really well, then after that flow becomes poor. I restart the print with diff settings and again it prints well until the second layer.. Temp-230-255 Flow everything from 95-110% Layer height 0.1-0.2 No fan Any thoughts welcome. Many thanks GBR1
  6. gbr1

    Issue with Nylon

    Hi all, Trying to print with Taulamn 645. Trying lots of settings but not getting much luck! Loads of underextrusion. The strange thing is the first layer is always printing really well, then after that flow becomes poor. I restart the print with diff settings and again it prints well until the second layer.. Temp-230-255 Flow everything from 95-110% Layer height 0.1-0.2 No fan Any thoughts welcome. Many thanks GBR1
  7. I recommend you try From Z, there is a free version Form Z Jr.. IMO, one of the easiest packages to get good quality results with a little training, they have some good you tube videos which help you learn the basics quickly! GBR1
  8. Perfect, thanks for the info.. Make sense now:) GBR1
  9. Hi All, Sorry if this has been touched on another thread I couldn't find anything.. I have noticed with the new version my build plate is all wrong. I think it something to do with the machine settings and build area being square. Now the build plate is not square and why you would want to make it round I have no idea. Consequently I have lost a few cm off the build plate, is there something I have wrong in my settings to change this?? Many thanks GBR1
  10. I have this issue as well. Before I simply popped in my SD card and pressed save, even had the option to eject once saved which was great. Now nothing! Mac Yosemite.. GBR1
  11. So maybe there is a way to change this setting and I haven't found it, but when a print has finished and the display (on UM2) says cooling down it gives you the temperature of the print head and not the bed. Surly it's the temp of the bed that's important (could be wrong, newbie here) as that tells me when I can remove the part from the bed without hopefully damaging it. Does this make sense or am I talking rubbish?? Cheers GBR1
  12. Here u go. Should say that UM support was very helpful as well.. Its hard to make out in the photos but its the main live cable terminal.. GBR1
  13. Hi All, Should start by saying this is now resolved and was a simple problem to fix. I started a print yesterday with my UM2 and all was fine, when I came back to the print at the finish the bed was cold, following that I couldn't get the bed to heat up at all:( I got the volt meter out and checked and there was plenty of voltage going to the bed, when I looked closer and some more testing I could just work out the solder conection had broken. Luckily there is (very randomly) a place just up the road which make circuit boards, I took it to them and 2 min later all was good. I thought I would post this I case anyone else has the same issue as I couldn't find anything about it on the forum which makes me think I was a touch unlucky with this one but as a said an easy fix! Otherwise the UM2 has been working brilliantly and it's been mostly user error;) Cheers GBR1
  14. gbr1

    Nylon on a UM2

    Thanks, I had a good look and on the Google forum as well and didn't see much (if anything) related to the UM2, thats not to say it not there though. Will have another dig. Cheers GBR1
  15. Hi All, As it says in the title, has anyone tried this yet or had much success with it? If so what are you printing on and what temps etc. Are you using Taluman or 3ntr nylon?? I have read quite a lot that the Taluman can be a little to thick for the UM (maybe not UM2) Bowden tube!? Many thanks.. GBR1
  16. gbr1

    Cura Tutorials

    This may also help explain a few points with Cura.. https://www.google.com/url?q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ultimaker.com%2Fspree%2Fuploads%2F38%2Foriginal%2FCura_-_User_Manual_v1.0.pdf&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNElviU9Tz_8h0qe-qF83526vF5kKQ GBR1
  17. Interesting.. If I am to guess you uploaded the latest firmwear with a mac? When I upload it with my mac it does the same and I have to manually home the head and lower the plate. When I upload with a PC it doesn't do this, it automatically lowers the plate etc.. Very strange..
  18. Hi gr5, So I did a few more tests with the pet (as in filament and not small furry animal).. As you can see from the photos I went down to 180degC, it printed and the actual bridge part was OK but generally it was the worst overall. The 210 bridge was in torsion the strongest. This was done by simply holding and twisting, there was enough of a difference to feel between the temps! 200 was the best surface finish and it got worse form there. BUT as you can see they all printed pretty well compared to other images I have seen so I am happy with my setting for this material. What was also good was by lowering the temperature I didn’t get what I assumed were retraction issues. I now think at 220 the filament was almost oozing out by gravity (if that's possible) and causing some of the stringing between objects. Thanks again GBR1
  19. Evening, So had a good day. I re-levelled the bed with a touch more friction but also spent most of the day printing with Form futura’s PET. This seemed to go well, I had really good bed adhesion with a bed temp of 60deg and the prints came out well. Felling bullish I tried (one of) the bridge test. Blue is with the Ultimaker PLA and clear is the PET. Visually I think the PET printed better (bar the 2 strands that hung down), it is certainly the stiffer of the two. Both were printed at the same speed of 50mms and same temp of 220deg C. Only difference was I had the bed temp at 65 for the PLA and for the PET at 60. Both could get better, I am guessing speed is the key figure here? Thanks for all the advice. GBR1
  20. Ok, thanks guys. I wil level the bed again, maybe I need a touch more friction on the paper. Cheers GBR1
  21. Yep, both 13.11.2. I am having to print much slower than you are to get a good print. Currently base layer I am having to print at 15mms and then main part at 50 otherwise it looks like not enough filament is going down! Should I try printing faster and increasing flow rate maybe? Yep, printing with the glue, I tired at 60 and had some curling, then printed again at 75 and had the same. I will try spreading the glue with the cloth as well, I am sure lots of these little tricks add up to a better print.. Saying this I changed the filament and am now printing the same part at 60 base plate temp and it's going well! Cheers GBR1
  22. Evening all.. So today has been a day of head scratching. So I mentioned the print bed levelling issue with the glass plate holders, so I decide to delete my copy of Cura and re install and straight away re install the firmware this time with my mac. So it still had the glass plate issue but now when aborting a print I had to manually lower the print bed and home the extruder. I then re installed the firmware from my PC and it still had the bed level issue but not the abort issue! I have been having a few issues with the base layer but have posted that in another thread. gr5 its funny you mention curling as I had this today quite badly. I was printing with bed temp at 60 deg and having issue I also printed at 75 had the same issue.. I was printing this.. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451 I printed one the other day and it came out well (on “normal” quick print), I have scaled it up now to 1.5x’s and the outside ring was fine, it was the middle cogs that had the lift/curling. I am trying again now but with slowing down the first layer hoping to get a better adhesion. Added is a photo, been having a few of these issues, maybe its simply what happens but would be good to remove at print if possible. I am not sure if this is a retraction issue or not? I have retraction on and the 2 relevant settings to 0 (zero) and on the UM2 have increased the height to 5.5mm. Any advise welcome! Many thanks GBR1
  23. Not wanting to hijack this thread but I have something similar (I think). For me it doesn't really matter the size of the print (haven't tried to print anything big yet) but when putting down filament for the first layer it starts off very smooth and well bonded (if that’s the correct term) and then it becomes a little more random with what looks like not enough filament going down. It then goes on to print fairly well after the base is complete. Hopefully pic attached will show better than my description! Many thanks GBR1 note: when printing it starts the base layer fill in the top left to bottom middle and then works towards the bottom left hand corner. stops and then starts again just right of top left, this is where is seems to go wrong/worse. initial layer thickness .3 mm layer thickness .1 mm Bottom layer speed 15 mm/sec Fan off print speed 50 mm/s Heated plate 60 degrees celsius Shell thickness .8 mm Temp 220 material flow 100%
  24. Hi illuminarti, gr5 I followed you advise and changed the first layer height to 0.3 and it was the ok. I will continue to play with the settings and see if I can get better prints. The soft wear is 13.11.2 so confused about the glass plate holders. With PLA approx what temps are you running for the heated bed, I have been printing at 60 and it seems ok but I did have some small curling. This may have been to poorly prepped bed though using the glue provided!? Thanks all..
  25. Hi Robert, I simple pulled open the Bowden tube at the feeder end and pulled the "blob" out. I am not sure if this is good protocol but I have had 2 now and got them both out the same way. As others have said I think it's probably not an issue just extruding it through it just seemed better to me to remove it if at all possible. Hope that helps? Many thanks for all your help on here guys! GBR1
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