Jump to content

anaxyd

Dormant
  • Content Count

    11
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Community Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. The nozzle reservoir appears to be smaller in diameter than the bowden tube, I have no problems with pulling the filament with the "plug" at the end which is formed as the nozzle reservoir. I can measure the "plug" next time I change. As far as I can think of, this can absolutely be automated. The extruder have to pull pretty fast to replicate my hand pulling, but it might work really good. Auto-change. That would be a great feature! I am using the UM Original btw.
  2. Hello! Just thought I should share something with this great community, I have learned a lot from this place, so I feel I have to give something back. This might already be known, but I give it a try anyways. I found that the best way to change filament from a color to another, without leaving rests of the first filament in the nozzle, which eliminating the need of priming the nozzle until the old filament rests is gone. 1. Heat up the nozzle to 100 degrees celsius. 2. When it approaches 90-95 degrees, slightly start to rotate the extruder-wheel to pull the filament out of the nozzle 3. When it gets easier and easier to pull (around 100 degrees now), loosen the tightener-mechanism on the extruder so that you can freely pull the filament with your hand. 4. Pull fast with your hand now, and everything should come in one, leaving the nozzle completely empty. (You will see that the tip of the filament is shaped as the inside of the nozzle, when you see this, success!) 5. Now the nozzle is empty, and you can insert the new filament, heat it up to ordinary temperature, prime the nozzle until you see it comes out and viola, you are ready to print! This whole procedure goes actually really fast. (this might vary from filament-brand regarding the temperature, I am using stock filament from Ultimaker in this example) I hope this tip can help someone. I surely have helped me a lot when changing filament!
  3. I have tried searching, and there is, yes, a buch of existing topics. Maybe we should make a collection of the all ideas in one sticky thread? That could help future UM folks. Thank you anyway, I am a bit confused regarding the belts, and the tension. I followed the video in the wiki manual rev 4, and tightened my belts to reach the same tone. But they are not SUPER tight. Should they be tighter than in that video, since I see that people are using belt tensioners and such?
  4. Hello! How do you perfectly calibrate your Ultimaker? Does it need modifications? Pulleys? Belts? New head? etc? The guide at Ultimaker wiki is great, but I feel it is a bit underdetailed.
  5. I have actually managed to print with 400% of 50 mm/s in speed, and 260 degrees in temp with Flexible PLA from Ultimaker. The print were horrible at low temperatures, so I tried to increase it with the speed, and it got better. So maybe the Flex PLA needs some more temperature than expected?
  6. I found the source to the sound, and it was the belt in the front, the X axis belt. I had to loosen the pulleys, realign the belt and tighten it again. Now the sound is gone. I am not sure why, but maybe the pulleys were a bit "off" each other or something, in combination what is written in the posts in this thread. Anyway, its gone now, thanks to your help! Also found another thread about this issue, so I link to it here for others to see. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2560-can-anyone-explaindiagnose-this-loud-crackingclicking-sound/
  7. Hello! Almost gone a week since I built my Ultimaker, and lately I have experienced a "clicky" sound sometimes from the machine. I think it is coming from the wood or something. Is this normal? This happens when the machine works, not when it is idle. Uploaded a video of the issue:
  8. Tried to print two test parts at the same time, but I think the nozzle spends too much time on each layer now, it gets too hot. (7,5 minimum layer time) Here are some pictures: (The left one got more cooling, since I got the stock cooler) I tried with 1 in minimum layer time after this, but it went a lot worse with more stringing and bad quality overall. But the left one in my pictures above is absolutely within range of good quality, so the trick worked!
  9. Ah, thank you for the input! That sounds clever, I never had that in my mind. I will try to print two at the same time, with gantry height at 0. I see my links went crazy, so here are the product I am trying to print: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:155464 It is the bottom part with two cylinders I am struggling with.
  10. Hello! New with my Ultimaker, and have stumbled upon some challenges when I am trying to print small tubes. It looks like it is not cooled enough. Recently I faced this when trying to print the back cover of this dial: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:155464%20link%20to%20the%20file%20itself:%C2%A0http://www.thingiverse.com/download:30622 Those two tubes/cylinders are pretty hard to get nice and accurate. Do you have some tricks that will work well with this? Printed with 0.10, 70mm/s, 200C, black Ultimaker PLA.
  11. Hello! I recently ordered a Ultimaker original with some stuff. But on tuesday or wednesday the DHL tracking suddenly said "Clearance event", and that they needed more information about the shipment from the sender. This is often usual, I know. But its still on clearance event, and I asked UM support if they did know any more. But I haven't gotten any answer there yet. My last shot is to ask here on the forum. Does someone from UM know anything about this? My order no is (R371107185).
×
×
  • Create New...