mr.-waldorf

UH UH UH.... finally the post that I was waiting... Many, many, congratulations for the modification, I LOVE IT! Can´t wait for more details.

man... I would prefer to burn in hell :twisted:

Just to clarify my last post, If you setup manually the temperature (or flow) in your UM2 and then use tonycstech's software to change the temperature at the first layer you should have the desired effect. (different raft temps or flow%) never tested it, so if I'm wrong someone correct me

Hi all, I only use raft to give a different texture finnish and I am quite happy with the actual raft settings. The left heart (lid) was made with raft 2) Raft print temperature 3) Separate feed rate for raft 4) Separate print temperature for object first layer. All this can be made manually on the UM2 and since the changes will be made right after starting the print this is not a big deal I know it's probably not the answer you wanted to hear but do not think it will be changes in the near future about it You can try the TweakAtZ plugin to handle with different extruder temps, flow rates, speeds, bed temps at an specified Z height There is also a similar software made by a "ultimaker brother" but i can't find it. I will search the post and then I will add the link here... Found it: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4185-tweak-at-layer-number-windows-application/ Many thanks to tonycstech...

Thanks Ian Hey ULTIMAKER TEAM !! You should send Ian a new filament spool, he certainly deserves. The work he has done, the commitment and the excellent "marketing" to the brand Ultimaker should be compensate... Cheers

Hi Ian, I am following the feeder material tread and your work very closely Can you test your new material feeder with a almost empty spool? (more bended filament) Thanks Nuno

Oh... I was so wrong.... Now I really have to do the same and spend some bucks

So... What do you guys think we should do? Lets exchange some thoughts here... Should we get a way to straightening the filament or should we adjust the UM2 to be able to deal better with bended filament? Its easy to make an external device to straighten the filament before the feeder material, this could be done with two heated wheels or rolls and the filament would pass between them. Another thought... what about a teflon coupler with the inside hole in cone shape, like a funnel? Any other ideias to deal with bended filament on a UM2? I forgot to mention the easy and lazy way... just buy unspooled filament

In short, After changing thehttp://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4319-prints-quality-improvements/page-2 and use a new filament spool, already got 4 successful extrusion tests at 10mm3/s Hey Schafe! 0/10 Blarps to gr5

Hi George, I was planning do the same and this post saved me some € on a new nozzle. This is very important data! Thanks This is also very important info. Since my last extrusion tests I decided to change the spool for a new one to see the diferences and I was able to achieve the 10mm3/s again. son of a b**** I will make a few more tests but right know it seems that my underextrusion problems happens on a half empty spool... ARHHH!

Hi Jörg Uau... very nice "first" prints. Congratulations for that, once again. Cheers, Nuno

Hi Joerg, Welcome to the forum and to 3d printing. I am sure that you will have a good time here and everybody is eager to help. Congratulations for the new printer and for the first prints. Cheers

Don´t use usb to print, use the Sd card.

I considered the same as you for a while, should work way better, unfortunately I think that due to motor sizes and adding some kind of material feeder It will be very difficult to install all this in the head and keep all the clearances and maybe weights. Maybe a very powerfull and tiny stepper? Not sure if available. I like the concept it seems to me the easier way to feed the filament, unfortunately this is a bit more complicate. Filament has a extrusion limit inside a 0.4mm nozzle so if we push to hard it will strip the filament also. The way to go here I think its measuring the filament motion, this could improve a lot the underextrusion problems. The motor "jump steps" are like safety steam valves when they are overpressured they release the pressure out of the system, so if we control the pressure the release valve should stay always close unless there was a malfuction. Its needed some control motion sensor, some changes to the board and some Daid hard work. There is a lot of ways to improve the printer and this underextrusion problems but it must be Ultimaker to lead the way, develop new solutions and apply them fast. We all payed a lot of money for a printer that doesn't do what Ultimaker announces. I suspicious that they are working hard on this but would be great to have more information about the solutions and implementation deadlines.

I bet that you have a UM1 instead of a UM2, right?

I made this to my printer, maybe you already saw... http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4319-prints-quality-improvements/page-2 If you have the space you shoud do as in Gr5 photo and this way the filament unspools with its natural bend orientated nicely for the bowden tube. For some prints I like to change the retraction speed to 35mm/s and the retraction lengh to 5.35mm this should almost eliminate the blobs... Have fun

Hi Boys, Yeah, you should do that... The original setup caused me underextrusion problems too. I still have them but not so severe. Be Careful, the parts with underextrusion are very fragile and with vibrations and air pressure they can break in mid air. I don't know what kind of balsa filler you have, but the ones that I tried doesn´t gave so much strength to the parts (like fiberglass or some other glues) they are just for finishing purposes. If you want to use that part you could reinforce the interior but this can bring added weight so maybe it's best to fine tune your printer first and then you can go for higher flights Offtopic: Today, I received a new toy and it's a flight stablization system... The FY-30A has an integrated three-axis gyro and three-axis accelerometer and can realize the plane automatic stabilization flight, 3D pose lock flight and PTZ camera gimbal stability control. This is very usefull for jet fighters that like high speed landings and they don´t like cross winds on landings. I also suspect that will add a huge scale flight feeling. I am happy happy happy! Cheers

Come on boys... Theres no individual heroes here! The real hero is this forum. The true superpowers are the fact that we have here joined some of the brightest minds in their different areas and fortunately thanks to the new technologies we have available at the tip of our fingers real superpowers. There should be no competition feelings but team spirit feelings. In fact there will be no superhero because underextrusion is not only caused by one factor, in my opinion the underextrusion is caused by more than one subject, there in the end after overcome the existing problems, we become all winners because we will be especially proud for having the best printer in the market and the best online community. (we already have) I understand your feeling Ian, wanting to find the perfect solution and help the entire community to overcome this problem and you are doing a good job in developing the feeder material and sharing the information, so keep up the good work. Bearing in mind what I said, I wanted to add that there are no heroes here... but illuminarti is my hero and George is his assistant.

Hi Shafe, You were attacked by the underextrusion gremlin, the little bastard... Lowering only the temp is worst unless you decrease the speed also. I know that printing times can be very disappointing but the print quality at lower speeds its just simply amazing.

Hi Shafe Love the new profile pic and also the plan B. It seems a very good plan If you have enough "horse power" should fly... I think that this "additional" weight will give a beautiful scale flight feeling. On my printer with UM filament I would print the detailed parts at 30mm/s 230ºC and the others parts at 50mm/s 240ºC, this avoids underextension and it seems that is easier to print more solid parts at lower speeds. Since you have a different filament this can change a bit... Have fun, keep coming the photos and the good work... Good morning Iowa, Europe is going to bed.

I like the design it's clean and simple. But on other end, can be dangerous for pets and children an exposed knurled wheel maybe it's just my problem ... but my cat loves to sit and watch the filament moving The dog is to lazy to care about anything, and then the parrot, wife and daughter are well trained to handle with the UM2 and they are like the dog, don´t care about it. So should be safe... when the cat lose a finger he will soon realize the error he made, messing around with a knurled wheel... :cry:

Wow... the things that this man can do... and only have one cat! I only can imagine what he could do with two cats. Congratulations David, you nailed it

Hi printedman, Didn't quite understand your post... if you bought a Ultimaker, my congratulations it's a awesome machine If you bought a makerbot, I feel sorry for you.... Cheers

Hi woofysplace Initially wanted to do the same as you and get the filament unspools with its natural bend orientated nicely for the bowden tube, however my UM2 happy corner didn't like so much...

Hi Ian I also noticed that at higher speeds the existing concept puts monster tension on the filament as it bends the filament in the wrong place and the wrong time. after a 100mm/s print and then after a 100mm/s print