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mr.-waldorf

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Everything posted by mr.-waldorf

  1. Hi I am a huge RC fan myself and love the topic I want to print a RC car in the near future, meanwhile just printed some parts and accesories for the existing ones (non 3d printed) this is my curent project: (a little bit offtopic...) As the material choise I think I will go for ABS Have fun and keep the photos comming...
  2. Merci beacoup, L'angle s'aggrave avec la vitesse, il est extrêmement important que le filament entre droit pour éviter les frottements. Les améliorations ont été immédiate et sensible, Je suis très satisfait, cependant je vais revenir à des vitesses inférieures parce que j'aime les impressions de qualité supérieure Salut
  3. My good friends, There is still hope for printing at higher speeds with a quite acceptable quality. Makes about a month since my UM2 arrived and has not stopped since day one. I Always print at lower speeds to achieve better quality and never printed anything up to 50mm/s for thinking that the quality would be much reduced and had already seen intermittent problems of underextrusion above the 50mm/s, so wrongly I established that this speed was an acceptable limit. This week in an attempt to help Shurik and others decided to print my first house and also experience the higher speeds. I Printed a house at 50mm/s, 230°C and underextrusion didn't happened but it seemed that was bound to happen at some spots, but still a very good print. After this print I went to exchange filament and noticed that it was quite stretched and folded on the entrance of feeder material and on that filament guide thing, so after a brief analysis I decided to improve the filament entrance, because it seemed he was doing a lot of friction in that stock filament guide and with a very wrong entrance angles in to the material feeder. After a 50mm/s print In my underextrusion experiences I have noted that at higher speeds the knurled wheel was chewing and spitting filament so baddly that caused jams, sometimes inside of the material feeder and other times on the teflon coupler. Also found once that dust caused a little underextrusion too... So less talk and lets fix the damn thing... This is what I did with some RC parts (traxxas revo steering system) that seemed to be designed on purpose for the UM2 small Anodized tube which acts as a bearing No holes, I used the existing hole and longer screw With the dust filter... and this is my third consecutive print without underextrusion at 100mm/s after some cleaning... Have to change bottom/top to 1.6mm! So before this I couldn't go over 50mm/s without underextrusion, and now I am printing consistently at 100mm/s. The UM2 rear became much more quieter and smother, no more vibrations, clicks, clacks or bangs. I managed to find that gold PLA, works very nice at 250ºC-100mm/s and I don't advise to go lower on the temp since I noticed that were single underextrusion spots on the more tight corners at 245ºC. So, yes we can print fast, and with a damn good quality. I am very pleased and suprised. There will be a litle stringing, due to the high temp but very easy to remove and doesn't affect so much the final print quality. Pardon my french but I am portuguese so ignore my english errors Now I will return to my 20 and 30mm/s prints, because I just love them :wub:
  4. please see Illuminarti's post: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4171-ultimaker2-axis-squeeknoise-solved/page-2 and also Gr5 awesome posts: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3418-um2-extrusion-rates/ http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/
  5. Hi Shurik, Last night I printed a house just for testing... I was able to print without underextrusion with the folowing setup: layer: 0,1mm speed: 50mm/s temp: 240ºC bed: 60ºC retraction speed: 25mm/s retraction lenght: 4.5mm flow: 100% fan: 100% PLA: Gold I'am not shure if 50mm/s isn't to much for 0,2mm layer
  6. It seems that the teflon's melting point is 327°C; 620°F, so I suppose that will deform around 300ºC/310ºC Maybe we can make the parts in aluminium!? ceramic? ceramic fibers? I think the ceramic fibers wold be the best to avoid the heat transfer, since the bowden tube is inside of the teflon piece. The only problem is that this stuff is high-tech and must be very expensive. Addicional note: the ceramic fibers made from silicon, boron, nitrogen and carbon can withstand temperatures of more than 1,500 degrees Celsius. :twisted:
  7. Pt100s can be susceptible to high frequency electronic noises too, but I have only seen thermistors and thermocouples with this problem, never on a resistance thermometer (Pt100s) seems they are not as noise sensitive as the others. Usually we apply a ferrite clamp to attenuate the RFI/EMI electronic noises. Easy fix
  8. Thanks George Awesome post, very usefull Cheers
  9. Hum...No warps over here, so i suppose that you need a very well calibrated bed to avoid that. Maybe 0.2mm inicial layer suits better to you. I realy like the bottom finish with 0,1mm layer... I am sorry Shurik, I may have some guilt, has perhaps helped to deplete the red. :oops: I'm kidding, but it seems that ultimaker has serious problems with filament stocks. I ordered with my UM2, 3 months ago, some filaments and I'm still waiting. Next fillament order I will buy in other place than Ulti. For this speed (50mm/s) I would try 240ºC. Don't change everything at the same time, otherwise will be more difficult to understand what works better for the print. Play a litle bit with nozzle temps to achieve a good extrusion rate and when you get rid of the underextrusion, you can play with retraction values. You should check the tightness of most screws because my UM2 came completely loose and poorly fitted. You must check the material feeder, that tiny screw that tights the knurled part to the motor shaft, because if it is loosened as mine was, you will also have underextrusion problems. When I received my UM2, I noticed that I have visibly loosened bolts, so I disassemble everything and went back to assemble everything correctly. During this process I came to fix various problems of poor fitting, the wires on the bed were not tightened to the controller board, the ventilation wires were disconnected, some wires were crushed in the side covers, that extruder knurled piece was loosened, has 90% of the screws, and all this even before connecting the power. After some tweaking and tuning my UM2 is working like a charm, but still with underextrusion problems at higher speeds, however it seems that the problem is widespread and entire community is reporting this problem. I just ended a 22H print and its just a perfect one... Layer: 0,1mm Speed: 30mm/s temp: 230ºC Bed: 60ºC fan: 100% retraction speed: 35mm/s retraction lenght: 5,50mm
  10. I am sorry i must be blind, GR5 already answered my question. have to edit Marlin and change the max temp constant. Cheers
  11. Hi, Was about to create a post with the same question and in the meantime MGG stepped forward. How do I allow my UM2 accept the setup of 265º-270ºC? I was trying to print with black ABS, but it seems that 260°C is not enough. I think for the equipment this slight temperature increase should be irrelevant, however it seems that I can only have good quality print with black ABS at 260°C without ventilation!? I am not sure that this temperature increase will solve the problem but surely I wanted to try... I use a lot of temp sensors in my work and the UM2 sensor temp is indeed a PT100 sensor Thanks in advance
  12. Hi Shurik, Congratulations for the new shiny UM2, and what a machine... I am printing with sucess, with this setup: speed: 40mm/s Temp: 230ºC Bed: 60ºC Fans: 100% Retraction: enable (Basic Menu - Quality parameters) retraction lenght: 5.50mm retraction speed: 35mm/s and sometimes 40mm/s You can also try, for superior print quality, Speed: 20mm/s -30mm/s temp: 221º-230ºC I never printed in blue PLA but already tested different PLA colors and it seems that 230ºC is a good starting point. I also never print a house, so I will follow Ian's advice because he has enough experience printing houses. If the underextrusion does not disappear even at low speed and at higher temperatures to reduce the pressure inside the nozzle, it seems to me an excellent tip to try. Be shure that your bed is well calibrated. repeat the bed calibration several times until perfection. I changed the inicial layers to 0,1mm and gave the final touch to the bed calibration. Now it's on the magical spot. Have fun , you lucky israeli... ...and don´t forget to print the rose for the wife...
  13. To manually install a driver You must be signed in as an administrator to follow these steps. [*] Swipe in from the right edge of the screen, and then tap Search. (If you're using a mouse, point to the upper-right corner of the screen, move the mouse pointer down, and then click Search.) [*] Enter Device Manager in the search box, and click Device Manager. [*] In the list of hardware categories, double-click the category your device is in and then double-click the device you want.(Arduino device) [*] Click the Driver tab, click Update Driver, and then follow the instructions. You might be asked for an admin password or to confirm your choice. Good luck
  14. Ahahah! Thanks Ultimaker because you messed up with my printer and I am having a UM2 Kit experience and i am LOVING it. You are quite right, I was measuring the serial pins and it's also 5V. If the rear fan is supposed to work on immediately upon power-on, so it makes no difference. I will leave mine in "5V Fan" Socket. Well, this was fun, so back to reassemble...
  15. Hummm... It seems that we have different boards! mine is rev. 2.1.1 My rear fan socket is almost in the midle of the board and know I noticed that is writen "Fan 5V" and its number J34. the photo that you posted, on my board is the "serial" socket (J22).
  16. Ups, You just saved my rear fan, because I made the same mistake as you and just connected to the socket marked as "fan". Luckily came to the pc to see if there were more responses to the thread because I was 5 seconds of turning on the power. Arrhhh have to disasemble again. Thanks you save the day and the fan...
  17. Thanks illuminarti, Has always you are in the top of the game, in a superior league. :wink: In fact i had the rear fan disconnected ?( pink and blue wire), so now that i am sure that the brown and red wire is not to connect i will close the Um2 and fire up and test everything. Thanks again for your prompt answer
  18. Hello all, I finally got my UM2 and I am happy, happy, happy, or not! I am a little disappointed because I notice that Ultimaker still makes some mistakes assembling the equipment . After removing my UM2 from the box I noticed that some screws were not coming completely screwed , and it was not like a 1/4 of turn but rather 5-6 turns. After checking that most of the screws did not come tight , I decided to check and tighten all screws . During this procedure had noticed that some board connectors were disconnected, the ribbon cables were quite twisted and the leds strip was completely detached. The metal plate underneath the heated bed is also scratched . After solving most of these problems I got a question relating to a connector that has the brown and red wires and is not connected to the board . It seems to me that this connector is not to connect and probably will be for dual extrusion porposes, am I right :?: phew... so much work, it would be preferable if there were a UM2 in kit as in my case before connecting the power already disassembled everything and went back to assemble. It seems to me that ultimaker have a great product but still having problems on the assembly line and quality control. To me, a robotic engineer, these are minor problems and gave me some joy to solve them, but for sure there will be many unhappy users by observing that the staff of ultimaker not eat spinach and have no strength to tighten screws. :mrgreen: Thanks in advance for your help
  19. Bonjour a tous, À mon avis, n'importe quelle imprimante peut imprimer cet objet. La différence réside dans la résolution de chaque machine. Si vous excluis déjà tous les autres modèles d'imprimante et vous étiez les deux est déjà très bon, mais dans mon cas, je n'avais aucun doute dans le choix, certes Ultimaker. :rolleyes: Le Flashforce semble forcer une copie chinoise de makerboot et tout ce que cela implique pas m'inspirer confiance. Le Ultimaker a également le système d'extrusion double (en option) et la qualité d'impression relactivamente pour moi est au sommet (20 micron).Quand il s'agit de la vitesse et la précision, la Ultimaker 2 semble être dans une classe à part parmi les imprimantes de fabrication FDM. la Ultimaker 2 comme un volume de construction plus grande et peut imprimer de 30 à 300 mm / s à une résolution de la couche de seulement 20 microns (0,02 mm) dans un volume de 230 x 225 x 205 mm de construction. Par comparaison, la Makerbot 2 a une résolution de couche minimale de 100 microns (0,1 mm). N'oubliez pas que Ultimaker est situé aux Pays-Bas (UE), avec un tres bon support et une communauté en ligne incroyable et toujours prêt à aider. Votre question doit être comprise entre l'achat d'un Ultimaker original ou Ultimaker2 ... :wink: Note négative concernant Ultimaker est le délai de livraison de huit semaines, mais encore la peine d'attendre (Excusez mon français, mais elle le sera certainement mieux que votre portugais) :mrgreen: Salutations du Portugal
  20. Buenas noches, La UM2 no tiene el hardware para wifi, necesita algo así como un doodle 3d wifi box. véase también este post: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3554-doodle3d-box-on-um2/?hl=doodle Saludos desde Portugal
  21. illuminarti: What was that? that was very strange!? It was very weird! Peculiar! it was a kind of a good print, it was rather a perfect print, it was an INCREDIBLE print! Amazing job, I Love it! congratulations.
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