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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. Just got my S5 in today. I am noticing quite a bit of vibration and a nasty wobble while printing circles. Any suggestions?
  2. From what I can see, it looks like the S5 came out about a year ago to this date. Anyone have insight on the possible release date of the next upgrade? Maybe an S5 Extended? My luck is to buy the older model right before the new shiny one comes out. who am I kidding...just purchased the S5! Can’t wait to try it out.
  3. Where are you buying it from? I would love to try it. BTW, I'm currently printing another part with Hytrel and trying supports using the same material. Instead of using Cura, I drew them in with a 0.2mm gap from part. So far everything is looking nice.
  4. Thanks for the advice Hudson. I was able to modify the extruder on my UM2 (Filling all possible gaps near knurled fitting) and replaced the bowden with some PTFE tubing I had on a roll. I successfully printed my design using Dupont Hytrel 3078 and the print looks absolutely perfect. It prints better than Ninja Flex. The total print time was 19 hours. Unfortunately I can't show the print due to my patent process. I forgot to show the print settings: Hytrel Quality = 0.1mm Speed = 30mm/s Temp = 240c No Retraction Fan Speed = 20% Infill = 100% Heated Bed
  5. I have one of the older Ultimaker 2's. I am not able to use Hytrel with the extruder on this machine. The filament just gets pushed to the side when it gets stuck traveling through the bowden tube. I plan on getting an S5 soon, but was wondering what changes have been made to use this type of material. Will I need to modify anything to be able to use this material? Maybe a direct drive system would be better? Any thoughts or direction would be appreciated.
  6. It's been a few years since I posted here. I'm looking at getting a couple more UM3 printers and the material of interest will be Dupont Hytrel TPC-ET. Does anyone have experience with this material and the UM printers? I'm hoping to use it with PVA to create a nice smooth print with overhangs that need the support. I know the print settings will be close to that of Ninja Flex. Any recommendations or knowledge of this material would be greatly appreciated. Dupont Hytrel
  7. Labern, the impression doesn't seem to have any significant cause while traveling through the tube that's any different from any other method. No matter what the degree the filament travels through the tubing, there will always be some friction because the structure is forever changing, due to movement. I understand that. Remember, my main concern was to have the filament as straight as possible while entering the hole that goes into the extruder. The stock extruder created many problems with friction, then causing small pieces of ABS plastic to be lodged into the hot-end, causing blocks/clogs
  8. Not yet Didier, it's just something I needed. If others would like to use or modify the original design, then I will put it up for all. I guess your talking about how the printer comes with an adapter that positions the roller against the printer, sideways? My method here is something I've used since the UM2 came out. Before this design I had the spool in the exact same spot, but mounted on bearings that sat against the bottom/base that the printer sits on. I wanted a contraption that was mounted to the printer instead of one that could possibly move when friction comes into play.
  9. I haven't posted or even visited the forums since the revamp. I see quite a few awesome and new products available as well in the store. Anyhow, my original low friction spool holder kind of broke to pieces recently, so I decided to design a new one using iRobert's design as a portion of it. I came up with something I call the UM2 Spool Tool. It can support single or dual extrusion and can hold a tool organizer, while still using the original cut-outs. I am a huge fan of using hardware to attach prints and also of big prints. Hardware isn't 100% necessary, but greatly improves the overall look
  10. Here's the Dishwasher Rack Adjuster print hot off the press before it gets assembled and put through the fail test in the dishwasher. I only had to make 1/2. It's printed in ABS.
  11. I was able to complete it last night after 25+ hours of straight printing. I did have to reprint 1 small part and fix the file slightly, but it looks, feels, and works as intended. The only thing I'm missing are some 8mm rods about 12" in length. The ones I have are just a little short, but good enough for testing. The carriage weighs about 2lbs. Fully assembled with the brake/locking mechanism attached. Here are some pics of the MARS 2. There's a total of 12 printed parts and I printed the prototype in my least favorite color, since i had a full roll sitting around.
  12. Some really nice prints on these forums as always. For the past week all kinds of great ideas have been going through my mind about how to make my dremel workstation easier to print, use less filament, and easier ways to adjust both axis and how they rotate. This is the forth version i have designed from scratch which is called the MARS 2 (GEO) MultiAxisRotaryStation. I dove deep into designing this version with geometrical shapes, tension springs, and linear bearings. the last version did not use bearings and works great, but I wanted to have a version that moves up and down easier. Anyhow
  13. I printed this about 7 months ago to hold my bug zapper outside. It's screwed into concrete with tapcons. Still looks and feels the same as when it was printed. It's not in direct sunlight the entire day but definitely receives enough to effect it. So far it's held up really well.
  14. Another very useful print since each one of these corners costs $15.00 plus tax when store bought. I needed another raised plant bed for some edibles. I'm interested to see how long these PLA printed corners will last through the summer months here in Florida. I used cedar for wood with a couple coats of UV, mold, and pest resistant sealer. The dimensions are 3' x 5' x 6"H. I designed it to allow multiple stacking levels with 3/4" PVC pipe to slide through the corners to secure it even more and to be able to close in the plants from critters. The wood costs about $24.00, PVC about $4.00, an
  15. Happy New Year Folks! I made this Glowfill Frisbee to toss around last night. 2mm thickness and with a diameter very close to the limitations of the build plate.
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