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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. Just got my S5 in today. I am noticing quite a bit of vibration and a nasty wobble while printing circles. Any suggestions?
  2. From what I can see, it looks like the S5 came out about a year ago to this date. Anyone have insight on the possible release date of the next upgrade? Maybe an S5 Extended? My luck is to buy the older model right before the new shiny one comes out. who am I kidding...just purchased the S5! Can’t wait to try it out.
  3. Where are you buying it from? I would love to try it. BTW, I'm currently printing another part with Hytrel and trying supports using the same material. Instead of using Cura, I drew them in with a 0.2mm gap from part. So far everything is looking nice.
  4. Thanks for the advice Hudson. I was able to modify the extruder on my UM2 (Filling all possible gaps near knurled fitting) and replaced the bowden with some PTFE tubing I had on a roll. I successfully printed my design using Dupont Hytrel 3078 and the print looks absolutely perfect. It prints better than Ninja Flex. The total print time was 19 hours. Unfortunately I can't show the print due to my patent process. I forgot to show the print settings: Hytrel Quality = 0.1mm Speed = 30mm/s Temp = 240c No Retraction Fan Speed = 20% Infill = 100% Heated Bed
  5. I have one of the older Ultimaker 2's. I am not able to use Hytrel with the extruder on this machine. The filament just gets pushed to the side when it gets stuck traveling through the bowden tube. I plan on getting an S5 soon, but was wondering what changes have been made to use this type of material. Will I need to modify anything to be able to use this material? Maybe a direct drive system would be better? Any thoughts or direction would be appreciated.
  6. It's been a few years since I posted here. I'm looking at getting a couple more UM3 printers and the material of interest will be Dupont Hytrel TPC-ET. Does anyone have experience with this material and the UM printers? I'm hoping to use it with PVA to create a nice smooth print with overhangs that need the support. I know the print settings will be close to that of Ninja Flex. Any recommendations or knowledge of this material would be greatly appreciated. Dupont Hytrel
  7. Holy Mother of God.....solid-print-3d! I would not leave that space if I had that much going on. Here's my Happy Corner
  8. Labern, the impression doesn't seem to have any significant cause while traveling through the tube that's any different from any other method. No matter what the degree the filament travels through the tubing, there will always be some friction because the structure is forever changing, due to movement. I understand that. Remember, my main concern was to have the filament as straight as possible while entering the hole that goes into the extruder. The stock extruder created many problems with friction, then causing small pieces of ABS plastic to be lodged into the hot-end, causing blocks/clogs
  9. Not yet Didier, it's just something I needed. If others would like to use or modify the original design, then I will put it up for all. I guess your talking about how the printer comes with an adapter that positions the roller against the printer, sideways? My method here is something I've used since the UM2 came out. Before this design I had the spool in the exact same spot, but mounted on bearings that sat against the bottom/base that the printer sits on. I wanted a contraption that was mounted to the printer instead of one that could possibly move when friction comes into play.
  10. I haven't posted or even visited the forums since the revamp. I see quite a few awesome and new products available as well in the store. Anyhow, my original low friction spool holder kind of broke to pieces recently, so I decided to design a new one using iRobert's design as a portion of it. I came up with something I call the UM2 Spool Tool. It can support single or dual extrusion and can hold a tool organizer, while still using the original cut-outs. I am a huge fan of using hardware to attach prints and also of big prints. Hardware isn't 100% necessary, but greatly improves the overall look
  11. Just as title says, any info would be much appreciated.
  12. I'm in the process of making one very similar to this from old parts I have laying around at my shop. Instead of a steel bucket I'm using an old evap fan blower housing and some 3" steel pipe for the crucible. If all goes well, the next step will be smelting copper with a completely different setup. Surely you can't be much older than most of the community here.....
  13. Will, Since you had abs in that nozzle I fear that it might be the culprit if you haven't found anything else from the suggestions above. When I use abs on the um2 I have to use the atomic method about 6 to 8 times at various temperatures to get all the abs out. I use leftover rolls of white and heat up the hot end to 250 C and manually push the filament through then let it cool to 60 C and manually pull out to clear the nozzle completely. Usually there are little black bits that are attached to the white filament. I repeat until all the black is gone. In order to manually feed I am using Rob
  14. Here's the Dishwasher Rack Adjuster print hot off the press before it gets assembled and put through the fail test in the dishwasher. I only had to make 1/2. It's printed in ABS.
  15. Did you print the parts with 100% infill? I can't open the pics, but now I'm torn between being just plain stubborn or listening to your experience. The reason I'm going through the trouble of this post is because I will have to buy the filament and I want to make the right choice... I know the parts will most likely fail again if I buy them. On the other hand, I can still design, print, and test the part and when I fail I will still have a great roll of filament..... I wonder what these parts were originally made of.
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