chrisp

I think my clog was due to changing my material from one color to another using PLA for both, when I didn't allow enough plastic to come out of the nozzle to clear out any leftovers from the previous color. I got worried about the clicking sound when the extruder slips from too much pressure. Since then I am allowing plenty of material to ooze out when my material is being changed. (no more issues yet) Not to hijack the thread but both of my side fans haven't worked since I first turned on my UM2. Maybe I need to check the board that they are plugged into? When I had the hot-end apart, I checked to make sure there weren't any frays or damage to the wires. Is there a setting in Cura or on the Controller that allows me to turn these on? My prints have been coming out fine without, but I think they could be much better.

Daid, I would love to print it in two pieces, but I have no idea how to modify an STL file if possible and I also don't know if the files are already available in less pieces. If your TITAN design is mostly printed parts, then I would absolutely love having another project to work on. Please keep me posted!

Yes, I'm only using PLA. This is not my design. This is an open source printer with STL files available to everyone. I'm not sure what you mean by a bigger reprap project. This is the same case from http://www.tantillus.org/Home.html. It is not my place to publish this on youmagine.

Simply Amazing!

I had my UM2 in my computer room, but the fumes seemed to get to me too much so I moved it to the garage. I'm printing the last case connector for the Tantillus Case! Right around 100 hours of solid printing!

Thank you for the quick replies! Much Appreciated.

I am looking for a U.S. based company to buy filament from. Is there going to be a problem extruding 3mm filament? I tried searching these forums with no results. Thanks

The main reason this one is attractive to me is because it's about 90% printable and self replicating. I find this project to be extremely fun and challenging, due to the time and material used to create the finished product. True, the build platform is small, but still good enough for making small parts and tinkering. Also, it's portable.

There isn't a single person who has interest in this printer? Here is my current progress without any failures yet! (fingers crossed) I'm currently printing the most crucial parts of the case. (The Top) Every print has been done and will be done with 0 support except for the Brim option. There is only a little cleanup with the holes once the print is finished. Everything else goes together perfect. Every Pearl White piece has been done with .1mm layers, 30% infill, 50mm/sec, 55C for build plate, 220C for hot-end. The Transparent Blue has much different settings which I haven't yet figured out because the connectors aren't that important. I've been using 57C on the build plate and 223C for the hot-end and it seems to print ok.

I'm looking for someone to sell my 4 rolls of ABS Filament (2 Black & 2 White), bought from the Ultimaker store. I really need more Pearl White in PLA. I don't see me using the ABS ever. The only reason I ordered it is because I didn't know what i was doing. All 4 rolls are still sealed inside of the original packaging and i received the order earlier this month. I would except other colors in PLA. I'm in the U.S. Florida if anyone is interested, then please message me or post here.

Those are some amazing prints!

That's a fantastic paint job! I would like to know how you did the finish as well.

I had a clogged hotend last night. Here is what I did because nothing else was working. (1) Position the hot-end towards the front of the cabinet to make it easier to work on. (2) Take the 2 fan screws out on both sides of the hot-end and swing the fans and bracket to the back, being careful that the wires don't touch the heating block. (3) Unscrew all 4 long screws from the top that support the entire black box and slide out the hot- end carefully while it is attached to the aluminum bracket. (4) Take out the 2 screws that hold together the two aluminum brackets that hold tension between the spring that is around the nylon fitting connected to the hot-end. Once removed, take the spring and bracket off so you can only see the nylon going into the hotend. (5) (Being very careful) Turn the printer back on and go into the settings to heat hot-end to 190C-200C (This was for PLA clog, not sure about ABS) and then remove the nylon fitting with needle nose pliers or the tool of choice. Then gently stick a straightened paperclip into the top of the hot-end where the nylon came out and twirl it around to get the clog out. I pulled out a clog in the nylon and two clumps from the hot-end. This may seem like a pain to do, but it is fairly easy and the only real way to know that you removed the clog.

I bought this UM2 for two reasons, to bring to life my inventions/ideas and to replicate more 3D printers. With that said I am working on a few of my own projects and also squeezing in some time to print the Tantillus case while I sleep. Each print takes about 8 hours so it only makes sense to print them while I'm not sitting in front of the printer. I would really like to hear/see any photos or info about a build someone here on these forums has successfully put together, whether it's modified or the original size. Here are a couple parts I printed recently of the bottom portion of the case. The one I'm printing is Pearl White with Translucent Blue Brackets and parts inside.

The print came out amazing with very little cleanup from the support, except where the nose piece is. That required needle nose pliers to remove support and heavy Dremel sanding. The arms came out with a minor spur to sand out every 5-8 mm or so.

Here is a pic of the finished print. I literally hit print, adjusted a few settings on the printer during the bottom layers, then went to bed. Woke up in the morning to find this sitting on the buildplate. No Support inside the lens as you can see. I did clean it up with a dremel and some wet sanding.

I decided to kick it up a notch and take a go at printing one of the pair of glasses that I designed. They turned out surprisingly well, considering it printed without support. I'm also printing some molds for the custom lens for these, which will allow me to vacuum mold them out of 2mm polycarbonate for a perfect fit. this is the first prototype of 5 versions. I'm loving this printer!

I've had my Ultimaker 2 a little more than a week now. First let me say that I am extremely impressed with the way this machine works and how easy it is to work on. I am a beginner in the 3D world when it comes to all aspects, such as, designing 3D objects within a program and using 3D printers. I started using Moment of Inspiration about 2 months ago while waiting for my Ultimaker 2 to arrive and managed to design numerous objects for fun and for work. The prints shown here are some I downloaded from Thingiverse and some that I created. The sunglass arms and phone case is set to the highest quality. (the sunglass arms are 8" inches in height) these came out really nice without any extra support than the brim option.

Problem Solved! I picked option C! I was able to slide the rods out and create enough slack to manually adjust the belts without opening the belt tension blocks and without taking anything apart(like the case). I just measured between the X and Y axis rods to get it perfectly centered. The Ultimaker 2 has been fairly easy to fix when something needs to be addressed.

I'm using an Ultimaker 2 The buildplate is level After doing a calibration print and trying to print one of my phone case designs at a smaller scale, I noticed that the X and Y axis is off, which causes my print to be angled. When looking down at the printer from the top I can see that the X and Y rods crossing at the hotend are slightly off center. To me it looks like I have to remove the belts and adjust them to get the machine printing straight. It's hard to see in the pics, but still noticeable. Here is an example: Is there a better/easier way to fix this issue?

The option to use the heated bed is in the form of a check box under <machine settings>, which I thought would carry from the SD card to the printer once changed. This is not the case and now I know to change the temp at the controller on the actual printer. I never said I was using USB to print......ONLY SD card I did figure out the issue with the printer starting at the front left corner of the buildplate. This was caused from an inaccurate slice in Cura. In any case, thanks for the replies.

Ultimaker 2 Yes Cura is setup machine type UM2 Ulticode yes SD prints

Everytime I go to print the hotend/printhead starts directly over the front clip that holds the glass plate down. Is there a setting that I can adjust to start the print in another spot? Everytime i make changes on Cura like disable the heated bed and starting at 0,0, does nothing when I go to print. Even when i set up the machine to level the bed for the first time, the hotend would run into the clips on the buildplate. Ultimaker 2 Cura is setup properly Ulitcode Yes SD card only Any suggestions?

I live in Florida and got hit with an $80+ currency exchange charge for my Ultimaker 2 which I payed in full with a credit card on Sept 29th and I'm still waiting for it! *I just got an update from Sander that my order is being shipped tomorrow!

I love this program as well. I use Autocad for the 2D drawings for work and never was able to get into the 3D Design of it. Moment of Inspiration is so easy to learn and use that I was able to make these two designs in the first 3 days of using it.