nudelmannrichter

and this is also going to be a nanobot later?

ah, now I get it. You design, print in "large" scale for test iterations and later you move on to nano sizes... cool!

I wonder what the scale might be...

yes, show some pics, please. Sounds interesting!

well done! I've to make a similar piece. No matter where I try to suck up the rubbish, the nozzle is a tiny bit too large. This is why we have the printers. Just reliziing an idea and get a problem fixed.

Right you are, learing by doing is the best way. And apart from small imperfectoins one suffers on first try it is alway exciting if something new you try turns out more or less like imagined before. This encourages to try more and even if it fails you know so much more about how not to do that this is even amazing. I have no clue about Mario Kart trophies but for me done from scratch you did a great job.

Ok, I'll give it a try to post something in this thread to keep it alive. We will see if this does make sense for the future. Latest project: Casting mold for a rubber seal for a mast of a sailing boat. We did this before but by covering a milled core with layers and layers of natural rubber. Problem was that this material is not UV stable and starts to get brittle over the years. So as a new trial we decided to make a mold and to cast this from 2K Silicone based rubber. Unfortunately the dimensions of the mold exceeded the building space of the UM2 to it had to be divided in parts. 6 parts for the outer mold, 4 parts for the core. Total printing time about 150 h, material is Firetruck-Red PLA from Fabberdashery. some pics of the previous one we made to show the idea behind...

absolutely r8, gr5

jep, Robert and Foehnsturm that is always the problem when somebody gets the pin in his head that something well running has to be improved. In most cases no improvement but confusion. Really a bad idea not to offer a "latest first" sort option. For me also annoying this top bar going always up and down when scrolling the forum list with mouse wheel. But... it's their decision - I'm only a dumb user. They can to with their forum whatever they like to do of course and I also realize that there's no development without improving but for me it was somehow disappointing. I also see that at any change there will be people complaining... so please give a sh... on my comment. I was ready to post some new prints I made but now I lost motivation somehow. Nevertheless I have to say thank you to the Ultimaler staff that they are running a community site which is really helpful. So maybe I have to take a cup of tea and calm down :-)

crappy bullshit... doesn't work. I would also bother to buy for spares as I am not sure if quality is r8

Sander, thank you very much. Now we have clearness. Keep up your good work. Still love the printer!

nallath, thank you for your open words. Is it possible to condense what you wrote to the answer of a simple question: Is a dual extrusion add on/upgrade kit for the UM2 still planned and coming from Ultimaker or not? I think the community appreciates all the R&D work but it is time for clear yes or no, so everybody knows what up and that's it. Thank you!

not yet, I don't like to talk something being a bug but here I really have to ask how to fix. Did anyone got in touch with the guys making the Slic3r? If there is a guy in charge to talk to I'ii give it a try

sure that the feeder isn't moving at all? We have similar problem here and recognized thet the E values are only very small. In your code you can see also a small value : G1 X89.409 Y90.985 E0.00593 F1260.000 . We have E-increments from line to line of about 0.007 hat is nearly nothing if compare to the code Cura generates under same settings with increments of about 0.5 from line to line what is about 71 times more. The UM2 does this hyper small increments usind the Slic3r code but of course it seems thet the extruder isn't moving. Any idea what might be the reason for this?

looks really great. That is what tech pioneers do! Keep on!

Woofy, the capton sticks like hell doesn't it? Could u tell a bit bout which material and settings u used? Look like 0,2 mm layers, r8?

very good, IRobertI good idea for my next car :mrgreen: ... will keep this in mind

Lennart, I tried to do a heat treatment to coils and I found out that it is possible to take out the tension by putting the coil into kitchen oven at a temp between 35 and 45 °C for about half an hour. This works fine for me.

yep, we'll see

hey very good lookin stuff. Can u share a bit what material u used for print and what type of postprocessing u used to get the finish?

ok, I see... nobody is going deeper in the dual extrusion theme as nothing usable is on the market yet. So no need for tinkering.

öffne mal im Cura die expert settings unter dem Reiter Experte. Da gibts in dem Fenster, das dann aufgeht oben rechts unter Support die Einstellung Structure Type. Die kannst do von Grid auf Lines umstellen. Ich nehme an, das ist es, was du wissen wolltest, oder?

Es hilft ungemein, wenn man die Minimierung der Druckzeit bzw. Maximierung der Geschwindigkeit aus dem Fokus nimmt. Gute Ergebnisse erzielt man zwischen 30 und 40, je nach Teil, Filament usw. gehts auch bis 60 noch ganz ordentlich, darüber wird's langsam so, dass kleinste Probleme grosse Auswirkungen auf das Druckergebnis haben. Der Grund liegt darin, dass mit zunehmender Geschwindigkeit auch mehr Material pro Zeit extrudiert werden muss. Das heisst, dass alle Funktionen in kürzerer Zeit stattfinden müssen, also Verfahren, Drahtvorschub, Aufschmelzen, Retracten usw. Damit wird die Harware schnell in dem einen oder anderen Punkt an die Grenze gebracht und schon hakt es. Es ist schon klar, dass ewige Druckzeiten nerven, aber unschöne Drucke nerven noch mehr. Es lohnt sich, hier zu "entschleunigen" was ja auch grad irgendwie "in" ist und nicht so auf die Tube zu drücken. Damit lösen sich viele Probleme von selber. Natürlich kann man "tunen" und bei einem bestimmten Teil, das maximale rausholen, wenn man das z.B. 2500 x drucken möchte, um am Ende einen Monat Druckzeit zu sparen. Bei entsprechend langem Ausprobieren kann man schon die Werte erreichen, die der Hersteller verspricht. Bei Einzelteilen lohnt das ganze eher weniger, weil die Ausprobiererie länger dauert, als ein gemäßigter Druck und über Nacht druckt sich vieles von ganz allein. Aber gut - es gibt ja auch Leut, deren Hobby es ist, den PC so dermaßen zu overclocken, dass man die CPU mit flüssigem Stickstoff kühlen muss, da ist dann aber der Weg das Ziel. Man muss eben für sich selber einschätzen, wie wichtig einem die Druckzeit ist. Wenn man Probleme reduzieren will - langsam machen.

ich habe mich auch schon gefragt, ob Ulitmaker die hat für sich extra machen lassen, oder ob das irgend so ein Standard Teil wie von einem Bilderrahmen oder sowas ist. Hab ich leider bislang auch noch nicht rausgefunden. War auch für mich nicht soo wichtig weil ich noch keine Ersatzteile brauchte

jep, right Very interesting link, thank you!