nudelmannrichter

jep and they came out pretty nice. Good job! But here we have dome larger details big kurved surfaces etc. This is very good for manual grinding, sanding whatever. At smaller pieces it can be a bit more tricky to get smooth surfaces by hand. Possible of course with some exercise.

oh, nice shape! Did u design by yourself or did u find somewhere online?

yep I think this vid was the reason why I wanted a tumbler :-P

jep, can confirm that parts look similar after my tumbling experiments. I did no use steel stallites etc. but 6mm plasitc cones consistig of epoxy filled with some abrasive quartz. I have to to more tests. If possible it is worth to think about designing a part suitable for afterprint tumbling

cheap chinese tumblers are runnin for bout 50 to 90 EUR on ebay. You can go much more expensive but for first trials these are good. Ok if DIY is the goal (what it should be :-P ) then you should start tinkering tonight... I thought about buliding one by myself but then I ended up building a vibrating sieve for my father's backyard. And this thing is running like hell!

sorry for kidding :mrgreen: I printed a small pyramide from bronzefill and tumbled it. I did not make and pics of this yet but worked pretty well. Bronzefill material was the reason for me to get the tumbler. In between the tumbler is running 24/7 but with other than printed parts. Good point, I have to go back to the rrots and doing more experiments with bronzefill

yes, I tried. Throwing in worked quite easy. As result the part was in the tumbler.

R 8 u r, Didier :cool:

very interesting, that nearly no replies are coming if one asks for special things bout UM2 double extruder. Ok I see, nobody is running one cause commercial versions still don't exist. I wonder if a tinkerer got something to run yet.... UM staff is telling that there is some progress and they plan to release something in 1stQ15. We hope the best....

auch wenns für das XT jetzt nicht hilft: zu den ABS Problemen beim UM2 kann ich empfehlen, das gesamte Druckbett mit einer Kapton Folie zu beschichten. Dann in den schon oben empfohlenen Temperaturbereichn drucken und es sollte klappen. Das Kapton ist auch bei PLA prima. Wenn sich der Kram wider Erwarten nicht von selber nach em abkühlen löst: für ne halbe Stunde in den Kühlschrank damit und dann fällts von selber ab.

Nightwish, here a vid of a launch trial... You see, Im not gonna fly by myself. We have a test pilot under contract.

@techbuilder: I used a standard spray filler putty from auto repair shop. I sanded it first wet a bit, then filled the joints, Sanded wet again and filled complete surface. Then sanded wet on the lathe and painted with a foundation to match the colour of the booster rockets. I also dropped some more pics into the pic album to show a bit more of the printing etc. Hey Nightwish, these are ballistic caps for rocket boosters for our rocket plane Bachem Ba 349 "Natter" . I have to replace the old ones before next launch. The old ones have been used ones from Star Fighter drop tank and have wrong shape. So I decided to make proper ones on the Ultimaker. for more pics, look in the album linked above.

Needed some bigger caps, bigger than build volume of UM2, so I had to divide in parts. Printed in Firetruck Red PLA from Faberdashery, Layer height 0,1 I had to do 4 complete caps in total so this took a few weeks....

Hi Folks, lets say it might be possible to bulid in a second nozzle etc. to the UM2 letting the heat problem aside. What would I have to do to get the machine running with the second extruder? I see that Cura allows me to set the number of extruders to 2. Ok done. But now? What do I have to do to lett the UM2 that it has a 2nd extruder mounted? I connect second heat pill, second thermal sensor for nozzle temperature and 2nd stepper motor. Result of first try is (of course) that nothing happens. I cannot control the devices related to the 2nd extruder. I understand that I have to change some settings, jumpers, Firmware version, whatever. What would be the way to do it for some tests? thanky nudel

Hi folks, I wonder if there is a decent site or source that shows all the filament materials available on the market. I see that the number of filaments, manufacturers, shops/distributors is growing and growing what makes is a bit confusing to find materials sorted in terms of theirs specs, sources etc. Is there any? I saw the filament comparison on 3der.org what seems only to compare price anf PLA and ABS types. On the other hand on their newsfeed every few day an artivle about new filament development pops up what shows that the variety of possibilities is expanding quickly. Everytime if I present a printed part to other people, friend, and customers I am asked about materials for special needs. So I would find is quite interesting to have a good ressource for this. Maybe I am to tumb to find but I did not so far. Eventually others have same problem, dunno. thanks nudel

I needed some experience concerning how big I have to draw a hexagonal hole to make a nut fitting. To cover both orientations I made two test parts with hexagonal holes starting from 7.1 mm to 7.5 mm. The M4 nut has a nominal size of 7 mm but is in fact 6.9 mm I printed it in PLA Faberdashery Firetruck Red with the standard PLA settings from the Ultimaker 2. Layer height 0,1, Speed 60, using brim, infill 30% Here you see how I arranged the orientation of the parts. Comparison of the two finished parts. I would have done better by increasing the minimal layer time or by adding another one of the vertical prints to get better results on the latter. But as a stress test ok anyway. All following pics show how the nut fits into the different sized holes. Left the flat printed block, right the vertical printed one. At 7.1 mm at both blocks the nut can be pressed in with one finger. It won't fall apart if turned upside down. Very useful if you want to place a nut during mounting an assembly and if you want it to stay there while fiddeling in the bolt. At 7.2 mm at both blocks the nut can slide into the hole nearly by its own weight if placed accurately, may stick a little bit, and may fall out by turning upside down if put in and removed a couple of times caused by slight wearoff of the hole walls. Tightest tolerance if you want it to fit properly and you don't have space to bring a force on it some how or if you want to remove it from time to time. At 7.3 mm the nut falls into the hole and falls apart easily. If you want to throw the nut into the hole this size might be suitable for you. 7.4 mm shows same effect with more space of course. At 7.5 you got a lot of space. Nut is still blocked against rotating but with enough force the edges could flap over and round the hole. Only suitable if you have to adjust the position of the mounted part and you need a bit of resistance against rotating while thightening. For me, end of the usable range. All in all it came out that both orientations work somehow. If I can choose I will lay the hole flat. But if I am forced to have it in vertical position I recommend to orientate the tip of the hex upside so I may avoid support structure up a a certain size of nut. Normally this test sould be made for every ususal nut size but I assume that the space may be scaled by using the percentage from the the relation between nut nize and hole size worked out in this experiment. That's it from the laboratory cheers nudel

Hey folks, this is follwing to my post #2046 in this thread regarding this clamp insert I made from ABS. Now I got the chance to test if it fits. It does. If you wonder what the heck the device is I made it for: old vine press.

yep, Aaron, think it should fit in general. Maybe it has to be worked in a littele by turning over the thread. I will see in a few month

just a little project I printed with black Ultimaker ABS on Kapton covered bed. Idea was to fix a threaded shaft into an existing clamp. I would have been possible without the thread in the clamp but with a cylindric bore but due that we can it - we do it. So the half thread in each block was the challenge. A pitty the I have not the shaft here so I cannot be sure that it will fit. But interesting experience anyway.

mir schwebt da auch etwas vor, wie es bei manchen CNC Maschinen gemacht wird. Einen Überlaufsensor, der vor dem Endabschalter kommt. Die Plattform könnte auf diesen zurasen, wenn der Sensor merkt, dass die Plattform kommt, wird der Stepper über eine Rampe gestoppt, fährt langsam zurück und wieder vor bis der Sensor anspringt. Nullwert speichern - fertig. Ist halt nur die Frage wie man sowas reinbastelt. Würd mir aber sehr gefallen, denn so, wie die Plattform jetzt in den meisten Fällen stoppt, finde ich das zu hart....

after a 10hrs print, no klack sound. So thumbs up! tks guys stefan

all right guys, this afternoon I moved the pulleys to make them touch the bearings. So everythings is still moving easily. Startet a small test print for a different reason and during the first few minutes no KLACK sound - so no backlash anymore. Thanks for the tips. Think next prints will be more quiet than before. Will have an eye on this, hope the pulley will not move... cheers stefan

yep Jonny, u r right with lenght and strenght. I thought more about little applications for item constructed machines which use some of the item profile features. Item offers a lot stuff fitting into their system. I have constructed and bulit a lot of industrial machines with Item and Minitec and sometimes I thought " ok this tiny part should have an additional feature to make somethin in the machine easier". So maybe I will so some applications and see how they work. Another problem would be that it will be almost impossible to those a different orientation in the print space cause then the massive overhangs will require support structure that would be a nightmare to remove later. Right, Dimensioneer I used the light one here and also with infill. Doing this with the heavy profile, massive and maybe in a different material would provide much more stabilty and still staying quite light.

all right, I lost this somehow in the discussion about the effects desribed there. Ok, you are telling that in general I might do what I wrote in my initial post in this thread. Thanks again for pushing my nose into it I will do this and see how it goes. By the way, do you think the Ultiguys intended to leave one mm space or would you say that the assembling guys normally take care of bringing this axial backlash to zero? As I am constructing machines in 3D I know that the 3D model and the assembled real machine is not always identical in detail. cheers stefan

Thanks for the hint, illuminarti, but maybe what's been described there might not meet the effect I wrote about. For the moment, this axial movement does not cause bad prints - its more that I think if I let it as it is that it might cause wear off or disadjusting problems in the future. And the KLACK sound is enerving somehow as I had some issues with warping at small overhangs before and when the nozzle came across these it hits the tiny things standing in the way what also causes a bad sound similar to the KLACK. Not as loud and clear but too loud to ignore. And so I would be happy if I could fix this, So if I hear a bad sound in future I would love to be sure that it does not come from backlash or things like that. I just looked further into the construction and found that also the left shaft hat sich backlash but does not move axial during the print. The 3D file published by Ultimaker shows a distance of exactly 1 mm between bearing and pulley on the back side. The question is if this is wanted or if this will be adjusted to ZERO during assembly. I don't want to build problems into a running machine but if it is something that better should be fixed, I'd like to fix. thanks and cheers stefan