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nudelmannrichter

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Everything posted by nudelmannrichter

  1. a test I made just to see if UM printed parts fit to industrial standard parts. Ok, they do. The profile is a standard Item 40x40mm aluminum profile which I replicated in blue PLA. This gives space for new ideas. regards stefan
  2. i posted the result of this test to another topic cause here we don't talk about underextrusion but about the sticking http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5334-interesting-extrusion-development/ regarding the sticking of first layer: the new temp settings and a well leveled bed with a distance a tiny bit closer as usual brings a better sticking result. Will go ahead with the tests. But before I have to fix the axial backlash I posted here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5286-axial-backlash-in-guiding-shafts/ cheers stefan
  3. Hi folks, as you can follow in topic: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5221-um2-issues-gettin-pla-stuck-to-print-bed/ I made another test print with the 3mm Blue PLA from IGo3D to see how problems may be defeated. I konw that 3mm is not the best choice but this stuff came with the printer and I am still willing to use it. Ok, here for the test. I printed a 40x40 standard profile from Item with a total height of 60mm Layer thickness 0,1, first layer speed 10, rest 50 Nozzle 230, Bed 50 the first layer was a bit tricky but sticked well enough so I let it run for 10 hrs. I had the bed quite close to the nozzle to molten PLA squeezed a bit more than usual. (see point A) At a time some slight underextrusion occured. (see point B ) I did not change any parameter and let it go. At point C the underextrusion became heavy. Between point C and D I fiddeled with nozzle temperature, flow percentage in different combination but nothing helped. Last try a point D was to reduce speed to 50% and immediately the underextrusion disappeared. At point E you see a some darker layers. I am quite sure that this is the K-T boundary where the dinosaurs died.... So here my questions: Who has an idea why the unterextrusion occured somewhere in the middle of the print and not from the start? I checked the filament spool, nothing specila to see, no special extruder sound... nothing. Only the visible result. What my be the reason for this dark layers of point E? (apart from a meteorite impact...) This would be quite good to know to see if this can be solved for future prints. Here some pics. thanks for watching and thinking about Stefan
  4. hmm bei meinem Drucker war Filament von IGo3D dabei aber das ist definitiv 3mm. Der Meßschieber zeigt 3,0 an, mit der Schraube käm ich wahrscheinlich auf irgendwas zwischen 2,95 und 3. Ist wirklich schwer zu verarbeiten. Langsam komm ich zwar dahinter aber gut ist anders. Man liest aber auch immer mal von Leuten die das 3mm auf dem UM 2 verarbeiten und es klappt soweit...
  5. ah, ok, ich weiss dass der Vorbesitzer meines UM2 auch mit schwarzen Flex PLA experimentiert hat. Vielleicht daher. Ich mach heut eh einen kleinen Service dran, da werd ich das auch mal bei mir rausknuspern.
  6. Hi folks, since starting with the UM2 I noticed a bad "klack" sound from time to time that told me that something is not as intendet to be. I took me quite a while staring at different spots of the machine until I was able to locate the source of this. It is an axial backlash of the right x-moving/y-guiding shaft. It works itself about a mm or so to the front of the machine and then in the right moment if turning and sliding come together in the right way - KLACK - it moves back and the pulley on the back end hits the bearing plate that sits in the backplate. Ok not as bad as I expected but I dont like such KLACK and backlash moving parts especially as the other shafts do not behave same way and a klacking like this may cause untightening of other parts later. Has anyone here same experience and did you fix it? My two ideas are to loosen the back pulley screw a bit, push the pulley back until it touches the bearing plate slightly and to tighten the screw again. I know that from engineering point of view its not good to fix both sides of a moving shaft to tight but as the whole machine is somehow "elastic" this might not cause problems. My other idea is to apply a spring loaded device on the outer backside that pushes the shaft insife the machine with a reasonable force so it is not pressed hard but also does not tend to KLACK anymore. Maybe anyone has some ideas or this helps others to locate a problem cheers stefan
  7. leck fett.. wie kommt das Zeugels denn dahin? Hab gleich mal bei mir geschaut, kann jetzt nicht richtig dran, da der Kerl am Druck ist, aber ich seh da auch son kleinen schwarzen Blobb. vor mir kann der eigentlich nicht sein, denn meine Schwarzversuche haben sich bislang auf 2 Linien vom Brim beschränkt, da gabs dann andere Probleme. Hat jemand festgestellt, in welcher Situation es so solchen Schmelzansammlungen kommt? grüße stefan
  8. von mir auch nochmal danke für den Hinweis. Ich friemel seid ein paar Tagen mit dem 3mm von IGo3D rum und es macht Probleme. Diese waren zwar nicht sofort und zwangsläufig auf den Durchmesser zurückzuführen aber das spielt vermutlich auch eine Rolle. Das 3mm tut sich mit dem Fördern definitiv schwerer und man eher mit Unterextrusion bzw. Überextrusion zu kämpfen. Mit etwas Glück klappt es, aber ich hab jetzt verschiedenes von Faberdashery und vom Ulitmaker geordert, mal sehen, wie das damit klappt. grüße stefan
  9. Hi Carsten, yep, it also looked like underextruding to me somehow especially during first layer. Today I tried the blue IGo3D again with same part as last one. I went a little bit in the direction you recommended and it goes better and better. My last settings are: Nozzle: 230°, Bed: 50°. I set the speed for first layer to 10. First I tried flow at 110% but noticed that then I get some overextrusion and changed back to 100% for second layer. Bed has been leveled again before printing and I have to say that the bed leveling method is not as good as it could be. I wonder wha the bed seems to change position from print to print... thermal or mechanical problem? Don't know, I will think about this later. This time it seemed that I got the bed a little bit too close but the stuff sticked. No glue or other helping products. This gives the idea that also the relation between speed and bed height apart from the temp settings seem to play an important role. If first layer goes ok, there is a much better chance for a good print anyway. Actually I am running a test print with same material, same settings, a vertical standing 40x40 item-profile in 60mm height. It will print the next 9 hours or so but I will see if it still sticks if we come higher and higher. Robert, yep, behaviour of different types of filament, is quite different. I wonder if it might be possible to determine with other properties of the material with are to check in a way may give a hint to how the stuff will behave. I am thinking about a small filament test device which runs some procedures and gives results that lead to a kind of typization of the tested filament... don't know just an idea at the moment. regards stefan
  10. Next step in testing was to change to a different brand of filament Test filament for this step is: PLA 3mm Sky Blue from Formfutura. Batch No. G130605P3SB100 I set the nozzle temp to 190° and bed temp to 64° Bed was leveled before test. First try brim tends to warp, I reduced the speed for first layer to 50% of the standard value. Seemed to stick better. Print aborted cause I only used a short filament rest to see if threre is a difference between this and the IGo3D, and there it is. So only a reference After that, again working with the blue IGo3D stuff. Leveled bed again just to be sure. Brim did not want to stick again, after several pause and resume operations incl. removing of the non sticking brim mess, first layer of object tended to stick a little after reducing the first layer speed at 50% and so I let it go. As you can see, we have some warping at the edges. May be due to missing brim. Here the parameters were: Nozzle: 225° I noticed that material feed was bad at lower temp and caused underextrusion Bed: 50° First layer speed 50% of standard value Here the result. Still not satisfying. A little bit closer to a better part but still sticking issues. I don't want to override these problems only by using some gueing substances on the bed. I prefer to find the reasons for the problems and try to fix them. If nothing helps I may try some adhesive stuff. I am more a friend of a clean straight concept with repeatable results. So I hope for some input from the community. thanks stefan ah, and please don't think that I want to say that the IGo3D stuff is bad. Its to check out best parameters for this. If it is more difficult to use - ok but the results may be helpful for all.
  11. Hey guys, of course this looks like an often discussed thing here, but think that can't be done often enough to collect and share experiences. Got a UM2 a week ago, Did several good prints with the silver PLA that came with the printer. Used the preset PLA settings, everthing ok as expected. Now I wanted to change to PLA 3mm Blue from IGo3D, Batch No. 130901A27020309, purchased in February 2014. I hope I don't go to far if I describe what I did first and what happened then. So, first I did behave a bit idiotic cause I did not change the material settings from PLA standard to a custom setting with right diamter of filament. I did not notice that and started the print which began not so bad apart from some warping of the brim in the edges. Nozzle went up to about 30mm height and then broke off one part of the object. Ok I thought apart from the maybe not optimal construction of the part, I had to improve the sticking to the glass a little bit to make this stronger. I printed exactly this part before using the Silver Ultimaker PLA coming with the printer and it was a success at first try. So I changed bed temperature and nozzle temperature in both directions but as you will notice in next pic, the results got worse and worse. I also releveled the bed, cleaned the glass with alcohol. It was obvoius that the extruded filament wanted to turn 180° upwards right afer leaving the nozzle and sticking to the side of the nozzle. I removed this before nozzle hit the bed but this did not help at all. Just to make sure, that I did not broke something or messed up some major settings, I changed material back to the silver, used the standard PLA settings and printed the part with the result you will see below: Even if the part has potential to be optimized in some way I am satisfied for the moment with the silver version but my problem is with the blue stuff. Ok, so I read quite a bit thru the UM Forum, found several interesting hints and decided to give it the next try this afternoon. I changed the part, to stay a bit smaller and less complicated to print. I made the material settings as Custom Material 1 as follows: Nozzle temp 210, bed temp 64, Diameter 3mm I printed in 0,1 layers, 50mm/sec Same happens again. Extruded filament takes a nice turn 180° upwards, sticks nicely to side of the nozzle. I removed this, and right after hitting the bed as soon as extrusion keeps on, the PLA does not stick to the glass, came off, warps, builds funny figures. In next line of doing the brim, nozzle collects the warped stuff until a nice crumblemumble is sticking unter the hot end plate. During looking at this scenario while printing it looked somehow like kinda underxtrusion to me but what might be the solution? I cannot understand why the first of the bad prints was the best even with wrong diameter setting. I also changed the diameter setting a little bit to see if this might influence but no visible change happened. I also tried again the settings of standard PLA but even here same result. Maybe it is interesting to mention that after each trial after removin the rest of the failed print I noticed minimal residues on the glas looking like a fingerprint of the material. Hardly to take a pic of this but looks like sweated out of the material. Easy to remove with pure alcohol. So... what would your ideas be to catch the problem? I will anyway change now material to something other I got with the printer, but with this Blue stuff I have no solution for the moment. Maybe some of you experienced guys could give some hints. One of the main questions is if I am the problem or the material might be the problem.... From time to time I also noticed the 180° turn of the worm also with the silver UM PLA. Does this look like a general problem? I think by heating up to really higher temp, this effect might be weaker but do others also notice this? Here one more pic to illustrate before I leave you alone with my long blabla :mrgreen: Just made some tests with same stuff in black. Nozzle 210, Bed 64, Diameter 3. Result: Maybe the 3mm are part of the Problem? Will keep on testing... So thanks guys for reading. I appreciate any help and idea. Thanks in advance so long Stefan
  12. ist ja jeck, dass ich jetzt erst diesen Beitrag wiederfinde. Ich hab offenbar deshalb gar nicht geantwortet, weil ich nicht mitbekommen hatte, wann der freigeschaltet wurde und hatte dann einen ähnlichen Beitrag nochmal verfasst. Also hier nochmal danke für die ausführlichen Antworten, die ich nun jetzt erst gelesen habe. Sorry, dass ich das nicht kapiert hatte. grüße stefan
  13. yep, same at me with the videos. I solved it by downloading them from Markus' dropbox link at the beginning of the thread. Maybe this info helps. Note: some files from the dropbox were unzippable on my computer cause of too long file names. But these can be renamed, then it worls.
  14. might it be possible to get the original extruder design as .stp or .igs file? I have no UM2 in reach to take a proper measurement. Is the data eventually in the open source download section? I had a look there but wasn't able to recognize, so maybe I missed this somehow... If I had such data, I would take this as starting point, working in a different feeding system. Sounds like a good idea to help the UM guys to improve a little. cheers nudel
  15. Even if I do not own a UM2 yet, I'll try to contribute a little bit. Are you familiar with the MIG/MAG welding machines? If not here a short explanation: In this machines a wire is fed thru a several meter long bowden spiral or tube up to the welding nozzle. First machines which are 50 years old had quite weak feeders causing lot of problems if the friction of the wire in the bowden tube raised for a reason. So later the manufacturers made over the feeder system and a two wheel feeder became standard. There are some variations on the market with different numbers of wheels and friction wheel desings. The idea behind this post is to look which solutions other machines with similar features have to offer. If you think this might be a way I can offer to look after some designs. Maybe there are some hints insice that could contribute to the solution. So long nudel
  16. Hi guys, I am looking for someone (easiest if in Germany but don't mind foreign prints of course) who could make a test print for me. I have a ready stl file that is printable as I know cause I tested it on other printers. The goal is to do it at finest layer height possible what should be 20 micron. I would prefer ABS but as I know that mostly PLA is used I would give this a try. The colour does not matter. Infill strategy is on you. The size is about 65mm in diameter an 30 mm in hight. I will be happy to pay for this. Please drop me line so I can send you the file. thank you from Germany nudel
  17. right u r during dismantling old flat sceen monitors I found several very interesting thin flexible plastic sheets of different type inside. Only as a hint.... Maybe one of you out there can dismantle a monitor and give it a try. I have to look after the parts, maybe I stored them. If so, I will be happy to send to someone who is interesting in trying this. cheers nudel
  18. Pretty good idea a thing that might be to consider is how the strenght of the single glass plates is. I think by folding them there might occur some torque force as the model sticks on the glas while trying to fold what may result in kinda bending the glass. Ok glass is flexible in a way so why not giving it a try. Most restistant glass may be securit type. Print the part of the frame u showed and try. Glas is available online as u know anyway or thru special companies. If you want I connect you to a glass company I bought several glass parts from in the past. cheers nudel
  19. Hi Patrick, darf ich fragen, warum du den Ultimaker verkaufst? Möchstest du auf den 2er updaten? Wo liegt denn das Preisupdate, kann ich das irgendwo sehen? grüße stefan
  20. Xeno, your IPad Stand looks superb. One question: you mentioned the lighter and darker ares in the print using silver material. On the pics these areas look like steps. Are they or is this only an optical effect caused by the colour difference? thank you nudel
  21. Moin Zusammen, erstes Posting aber na gut, eins ist immer das erste ich trage mich ernsthaft mit dem Gedanken, einen Ultimaker 2 anzuschaffen. Leider klingen die Bewertungen anderer Drucker auch nicht so schlecht, daher versuche ich derzeit, mir einen Überblick über die tatsächlich erreichbare Druckqualität in diesem Preissegment zu verschaffen. Am besten geht dies natürlich, wenn man dasselbe Teil auf verschiedenen Druckern fertigt und die Ergebnisse vergleicht, so wie z.B. die Jungs vom Make Magazine das gemacht haben. Daher nun meine Frage: Gibts hier jemanden in der deutschen "Ultimaker 2 - Szene" der mir nach Zusendung einer Datei diese aus ABS drucken würde? Natürlich nicht umsonst, es geht nicht darum, billig Teile zu schnorren. Falls gewünscht kann ich im Nachinein auch gerne eine Bericht mit Bilder dazu machen, der dann natürlich auch die Pro's und Con's aus meiner Sicht enthält. Würde mich freuen, wenn sich jemand findet. Danke und Grüße Stefan
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