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Everything posted by blackomega

  1. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/16503-um2-loads-of-filament-used-but-in-good-condition-for-sale
  2. I've got a barely used UM2 for sake and loads of filament, most of which has never been used at all. UM2 is about a year old. Prepared to sell the whole lot for £1,100 ono but it cost well over £2000 including the filament. I can post it (still have the original box etc) but the postage will be extra or if you are local then collection is also good. The only reason I'm selling it is that for one reason or another I just don't get much time to use it. Filament available: Black, Red, Blue, Translucent blue, wood, luminescent, clear, copper and probably more if I look for it.
  3. Depending on the model being printed and your layer thickness I usually have to increase the top/bottom to 0.8 - 1.00mm. That said, if the bed temperature is a little high or the hotend temperature 230C or above then this issue is more frequent. If your filament allows it then try printing at 10C less and see if that makes a difference.
  4. Hi, Any recommendations for the temperature etc setting on the UM2 for this filament?
  5. Is that some sort of print head cover you've got there on the UM2? An upgrade?
  6. Food for thought indeed. I would concur though. Thermographic pictures I took of the build plate (see another thread by me) indeed shows that the temperature range across the build plate is far from uniform even after leaving it for 30 minutes. Not a problem for smaller builds but for larger ones where the edges reach well into the cooler areas are particularly prone to warping. I'm wonder if it would be worth me looking to see if a redesign of the heating element for the build plate would give better results. At the very least by providing a uniform temperature across the entire plate which can only but help. Something akin to the heating arrangement of say an electric blanket under the metal plate (one that isn't warped in itself) and with copious amounts of Arctic Silver heat paste to fill the transition between the glass and metal.
  7. Looks good. I've order one and will see how it goes. I always print PLA (or one of its variants at least). Have never done ABS. Seems like it would be even more troublesome and besides the things I build don't really need it. Mind you being able to have a completely smooth and shiny surface would be nice. I've ordered some colorFabb XT which i understand can also be treated with a mild acetone solution to get such a finish so I'll see what that is like too.
  8. Nope my FlirOne doesn't seem to want to show the temperature scale otherwise I would have. You're right though it would have been nice.
  9. I've also been reading that Dimafix is also good. Anyone used it?
  10. 3DLac? Never heard of that. I'll see if I can find it.
  11. As a fun bit, you can see where the UM2 logic board is mounted! lol (pics are taken facing the UM2 from the front). I
  12. As a side line to something else I'm investigating I decided to see just how uniform the build plate heats to. I was surprised by the results. For reference the build plate temperature setting on the UM2 is set to 105C and a build is in progress. 1. View from the top looking down on to the UM2. You get a sense that the build plate is not being heated uniformly but in this vision mode it is affected a bit by ambient air temperature. 2. Same top down view but this picture is in contrast mode and ambient air temperature noise is much reduced (or almost eliminated). You can see a much greater contrast between the high temperature areas (white/red) to the low (yellow/orange). 3. Same as above but this time with the spot temperature readings. As you can see there is a massive difference of 10-20C between areas of the build plate. Is this to be expected or does it hint at a problem with my build plate heater?
  13. I'm constantly getting problems with my PLA prints failing to stick to the print bed properly. So far I've tried... 1. The blue tape. Laid down in strips with no gaps and lightly brushed with water to lift the fibres a little. - Found no difference is adhering. In fact I'd say it was actually worse than when I just wash the plate thoroughly in the dish washer and print straight onto it then (after drying of course). 2. Pritstick rubbed over the glass plate and then smoothed out with a wet cloth to leave a uniform thin layer of glue - Works but not good for large prints or very small pieces. 3. Extra hold hair spray - Found little difference to using pritstick Now I'm thinking of experimenting with heating the build plate to as high as it will go (185 degree - not sure what that translates to at the glass surface though). The theory being to keep the PLA sort of soft and so hope it stick better. I am concerned about how each subsequent layer might affect the one underneath though so I'll need to report back on that.
  14. I often have this problem too. Here is a feature suggestion for Daid... Provide the ability to pause a print and lower the build plate to allow such cleanups to occur. On resumption, the build plate rises to the paused level and the print continues. Possible?
  15. Has anyone tried this in place of the glue stick, blue tape, etc? I find, despite people saying it isn't required, that a sticky plate works great for the first layer. Always in search of a quick way of doing it.
  16. I use super glue when needed and it works perfectly.
  17. Hi, Sorry but you are too late. I sold the printer to another interested party no less than 30 minutes before your PM last night! Thank you for your interest though. Regards, Andy
  18. In answer to some questions I've received. 1. Serious offers are offers over £1,500. Still a great price considering what I'm bundling (brand new the whole lot would set you have over £2,050). 2. The filament is Ultimaker's own make of PLA filament. 3. Printer is located in Huntingdon, UK. 4. I don't mind sending it (I still have the original box) but the buyer pays for the shipping. I also don't mind meeting up somewhere to make the trade in person within a 50 mile radius of Huntingdon. 5. The machine is fully operational with the latest firmware. As for clogging, etc. It does this no more often than anyone else's as far as I can tell from the forums.
  19. Apologies. I've set the album to public now. Doh! If you want more pics then let me know.
  20. Family financial circumstances have forced me to put my beloved UM2 up for sale. It is less than 6 months old. It comes with 6 spools of PLA (colours - red, blue, white, black, translucent blue and clear). 5 of which have been used for a few small prints (the black is completely new and still in the packaging). Serious offers only please.
  21. I've never managed to get my PLA (from Ultimaker) to extrude at 190C but then maybe I'm just not going slow enough once it starts flowing. How slow is slow?
  22. I can see your point but I still think such a table would be a useful guide. Yes there are always tolerances and deviations in batches (they shouldn't deviate too much though) but I think it would be a useful starting point for a lot of people especially newbies. As for the speed, such a table could easily be normalised to a standard print speed of say 50 mm/s (or whatever).
  23. I think it would be useful to start to compile a table of recommended temperatures for the different colours and manufacturers of the filament material since my own experience and that of others I gather is that the optimum temperature varies with those properties (more colour than manufacturer I gather). Real world, used in anger values is what we want rather than what the specs say. Does anyone have such a thing started already and if not perhaps we can collectively pull something together? Perhaps we can have both a UM1 and UM2 table?
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