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blackomega

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Posts posted by blackomega

  1. I've got a barely used UM2 for sake and loads of filament, most of which has never been used at all. UM2 is about a year old.

    Prepared to sell the whole lot for £1,100 ono but it cost well over £2000 including the filament.

    I can post it (still have the original box etc) but the postage will be extra or if you are local then collection is also good.

    The only reason I'm selling it is that for one reason or another I just don't get much time to use it.

    Filament available: Black, Red, Blue, Translucent blue, wood, luminescent, clear, copper and probably more if I look for it.

  2. Hi guys.

    Sorry for late reply but I haven't had much time to make some comparison for you.

    Anyway, here's our setup:

     

     

    I didn't upgrade our Flashforge with additional cooling fan yet but I gonna do it later this week, everything is waiting for me

     

     

    You've asked for Ultimaker Robot so here you go.

    Slicer used for Flashforge - Simplify3D, 0.2mm layer hight, 40mm/s, 10 seconds minimal layer time.

    Slicer used for Ultimaker 2 - I've used original gcode which come with the printed on SD card, so don't know what's the settings are used by Ultimaker team.

     

     

     

     

    Result - 1:0 for Flashforge even without cooling fan

     

     

     

     

     

    Ok, another round.

    I gonna give another chance to UM2 by using exact same slicer and exact same settings as for Flashforge. This time Simplify3D for UM2

     

     

     

     

     

    Result - 2:0 for Flashforge Creator Pro also known as "cheap Chinese rubbish printer"

     

     

     

     

     

     

    For Flashforge I've used really cheap filament from reprap.me Denmark ( €13.33 for 1kg !) http://reprap.me/filament/pla-1-7mm

    UM2 were using white Ultimaker PLA (€31.50 for 750 gram) https://shop.ultimaker.com/product/18/PLAWhite

    BTW Flashforge Creator Pro comes with Sailfish accelerated firmware right out of the box which is great.

    I've also recorded some video

     

    Is that some sort of print head cover you've got there on the UM2? An upgrade?

     

  3. Food for thought indeed. I would concur though. Thermographic pictures I took of the build plate (see another thread by me) indeed shows that the temperature range across the build plate is far from uniform even after leaving it for 30 minutes. Not a problem for smaller builds but for larger ones where the edges reach well into the cooler areas are particularly prone to warping.

    I'm wonder if it would be worth me looking to see if a redesign of the heating element for the build plate would give better results. At the very least by providing a uniform temperature across the entire plate which can only but help. Something akin to the heating arrangement of say an electric blanket under the metal plate (one that isn't warped in itself) and with copious amounts of Arctic Silver heat paste to fill the transition between the glass and metal.

     

  4. Or you could get a special 3D-printer build plate.

    Example: http://printinz.com/229mm-x-257mm-printer-plate-um2/

    Yeah, these are expensive. But you shouldn't have to worry about PLA parts sticking to the plate anymore. At all.

    I have a different plate which should have a very similar performance. I've never had a single issue with prints not sticking, or warping, since I installed my plate. I also bought one from PrintInZ, but still didn't get to testing it o.O

    In the long run, you might even save money because you don't need any kind of tape or solvent / glue anymore.

     

    Looks good. I've order one and will see how it goes. I always print PLA (or one of its variants at least). Have never done ABS. Seems like it would be even more troublesome and besides the things I build don't really need it. Mind you being able to have a completely smooth and shiny surface would be nice. I've ordered some colorFabb XT which i understand can also be treated with a mild acetone solution to get such a finish so I'll see what that is like too.

     

  5. As a side line to something else I'm investigating I decided to see just how uniform the build plate heats to. I was surprised by the results.

    For reference the build plate temperature setting on the UM2 is set to 105C and a build is in progress.

    1. View from the top looking down on to the UM2. You get a sense that the build plate is not being heated uniformly but in this vision mode it is affected a bit by ambient air temperature.

    IMG 1562 2

    2. Same top down view but this picture is in contrast mode and ambient air temperature noise is much reduced (or almost eliminated). You can see a much greater contrast between the high temperature areas (white/red) to the low (yellow/orange).

    IMG 1565 2

    3. Same as above but this time with the spot temperature readings. As you can see there is a massive difference of 10-20C between areas of the build plate.

    IMG 1566 2

    IMG 1567 2

     

    Is this to be expected or does it hint at a problem with my build plate heater?

     

  6. I'm constantly getting problems with my PLA prints failing to stick to the print bed properly.

    So far I've tried...

    1. The blue tape. Laid down in strips with no gaps and lightly brushed with water to lift the fibres a little. - Found no difference is adhering. In fact I'd say it was actually worse than when I just wash the plate thoroughly in the dish washer and print straight onto it then (after drying of course).

    2. Pritstick rubbed over the glass plate and then smoothed out with a wet cloth to leave a uniform thin layer of glue - Works but not good for large prints or very small pieces.

    3. Extra hold hair spray - Found little difference to using pritstick

    Now I'm thinking of experimenting with heating the build plate to as high as it will go (185 degree - not sure what that translates to at the glass surface though). The theory being to keep the PLA sort of soft and so hope it stick better. I am concerned about how each subsequent layer might affect the one underneath though so I'll need to report back on that.

     

    • Like 1
  7. In answer to some questions I've received.

    1. Serious offers are offers over £1,500. Still a great price considering what I'm bundling (brand new the whole lot would set you have over £2,050).

    2. The filament is Ultimaker's own make of PLA filament.

    3. Printer is located in Huntingdon, UK.

    4. I don't mind sending it (I still have the original box) but the buyer pays for the shipping. I also don't mind meeting up somewhere to make the trade in person within a 50 mile radius of Huntingdon.

    5. The machine is fully operational with the latest firmware. As for clogging, etc. It does this no more often than anyone else's as far as I can tell from the forums.

     

  8. Family financial circumstances have forced me to put my beloved UM2 up for sale. It is less than 6 months old.

    It comes with 6 spools of PLA (colours - red, blue, white, black, translucent blue and clear). 5 of which have been used for a few small prints (the black is completely new and still in the packaging).

    Serious offers only please.

    UM2

     

  9. Yes. This.

    Then there is what you care about. If I am printing a part that no one will ever see and doesn't need to be strong I print it as fast and hot as possible (240-260C). If I want to keep stringing to minimum I print as cold as possible (190C) and very slow.

     

    I've never managed to get my PLA (from Ultimaker) to extrude at 190C but then maybe I'm just not going slow enough once it starts flowing.

    How slow is slow?

     

  10. The ideal temperature setting depends on more factors than just the filament which is used.

    Probably the most important factor is the printing speed. But then there's also the type of hotend used, temperature sensor tolerances and more.

    Also, there may be differences between different batches of the same filament type of a manufacturer.

    Imho, such a list doesn't make much sense...

     

    I can see your point but I still think such a table would be a useful guide. Yes there are always tolerances and deviations in batches (they shouldn't deviate too much though) but I think it would be a useful starting point for a lot of people especially newbies. As for the speed, such a table could easily be normalised to a standard print speed of say 50 mm/s (or whatever).

     

  11. I think it would be useful to start to compile a table of recommended temperatures for the different colours and manufacturers of the filament material since my own experience and that of others I gather is that the optimum temperature varies with those properties (more colour than manufacturer I gather). Real world, used in anger values is what we want rather than what the specs say.

    Does anyone have such a thing started already and if not perhaps we can collectively pull something together?

    Perhaps we can have both a UM1 and UM2 table?

     

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