blackomega

Looks like a fair bit of under extrusion to me. What temperature and other settings do you have it at? Unless you are trying it already, try increasing the temperature to 230C and slow the print speed down to 50mm/s.

Looks like you'd be better printing this model vertically like you did before as there is a lot less overhang that way. With the temp at 230C, speed 30 mm/s, retraction switched on and set to 5.5mm and the model printed vertically, how does it look now?

Excellent! One down 5 to go :wink:

I have personally found that 230C is a good temperature and gives a noticeable improvement in print quality compared to 220C. As for the speed, 40 (I assume 40 mm/s) is pretty slow already but I find that a speed of 20 mm/s gives good results if you can stand waiting for them to complete. I've also started playing with the TweakAtZ plugin so I can alter the speed during a print (really slow for overhangs and layers that benefit from a slower print and faster for layers that can take it). You might also want to try a layer size of 0.06 or smaller (not sure if the UM1 can go down to 0.02 like the UM2)?

I can understand that and of course would want a quality product that actually worked rather than something rushed out the door.

Got any updates as to when it will be ready? With water soluble filament in the second extruder and used for support material I think this will revolutionise the printing of more complex models. Of course a 3rd extruder would be great too but that will need to wait for UM3+ I guess as there is no room for it in the print head I guess (unless a larger print head is used I guess).

No idea as yet I'm afraid. I'm open to suggestions. I have only used PLA and I have my PLA settings set for a default temperature of 230C. Is quite high but I find the quality of my prints to be noticeably improved at this temperature in general.

1. I can see that so perhaps have a separate option for "Full Reset" or "Quick Tweak" or something. I find I have to tweak my build plate level every couple of weeks though. 2. Fab 3. I like that idea too. 4. This one is born out of the very frequent nozzle blockages I find I get which I usually clear by setting the temp to 260C and then manually moving through the material. 5. I can see your argument. 6. If that would be an easier solution to implement than my suggestion then I don't mind that one. I'd go as far as requesting that the motors be switched off whenever the printer isn't actually printing. This seems like a low tech but effective solution to multiple needs.

After using the UM2 for a while now I have the following requests for a few (hopefully slight) changes to the firmware that would make things a little easier to work with. 1. Build-plate levelling:- At the moment when you want to re-level the build plate it resets itself about an inch (estimated) from the nozzle. This may be ok if the build plate is way out but most of the time I find myself only needing very slight tweaking of it so can I ask for an option where it starts at the current level setting? This would be far more convenient. 2. Related to 1. Sometimes I find myself accidentally selecting the "Buildplate" option so it would be great if you could put in a confirmation step allowing the procedure to be cancelled before it starts. 3. Maintenance:- When using the advanced option to heat the nozzle up it would be better if the counter started at the currently read temperature instead of zero all the time. 4. Maintenance:- When manually moving the material via the advanced option, it would be useful if the temperature of the nozzle was kept at whatever it was previously set to (via 3 above) instead of resetting to the default temperature for the material (i.e. 220C for PLA) all the time. 5. In Print Tuning:- It would be more intuitive if the "Speed" option was in mm/s (as it is in Cura) instead of a percentage. 6. Maintenance:- An extra option to move the print head to either centre of the build plate and/or front & centre would be useful when performing cleaning/maintenance tasks. I know you can switch the machine off and manually push the head to where you want it before switching it back on but that is not ideal as it must put some strain on the pullies/motors/etc and possibly even affect their alignment perhaps?

Nee, USB is alleen voor firmware ugrades.

I have that problem too. I'm on the Mac version 13.11.2

Cool. Thanks. I never thought of the plugins. How do I install them?

I've noticed in my albeit very short experience in 3D printing that some parts of models benefit from a lower/higher temperature and print speed than other parts. What I usually do for those models is sit with the UM2 and "TUNE" the temp and print speed at the appropriate point based purely on my eye judgement. What would be good is if you could set the temperature, print speed, flow rate, etc at specific layers (as judged by the layer view in Cura). These settings would persist until either the end of the print or until the next setting point reached. Would that be useful to anyone other than me?

Can you post pics of where this dodgy solder connection was?

As was suggested before, removing the SD card during a print always homes once the print in aborted so I use that method now. This method takes a little longer to respond as the UM2 must be buffering from the SD card a bit. Not ideal though.

That makes sense I guess however it does mean that the UM2 homing on abort doesn't work. Certainly not in 13.11.2.

The evidence does seem to point in that direction. With the differences in screws used, tolerances, rear fan problems and other variations from one UM2 to another, I am concerned Ultimaker needs to be tighter on either their build version control and/or quality assurance perhaps. It is a real shame though as in general the UM2 is beautifully designed and made but these, seem to be common, niggles risk giving them a bad reputation. I understand that experimentation with design tweaks is part of the game but are Ultimaker going to send out these little refinements as kits to all UM2 owners? I suspect not although they really should in my opinion.

Weird as on mine the only thing that seems to have the Torx screws are the side fans. Everything else is using the small allen key headed screws, even the pulleys and the pulley sprockets.

Not on the UM2. The screws that hold the panel together are actually used everywhere that I can see and can be removed using the smaller of the 2 allen keys that are supplied. Not yet found a need for the larger one it comes with.

That's the problem. The small screws on the cooling fans on my UM2 are T8 screws (I estimate) as the T6 screw driver is way too small (doesn't even engage at all) which means the T6 screwdriver I got is useless for any of the screws on my unit.

I took off the two side fans mount assembly exposing the single piece nozzle and heat block. It seemed pretty well fixed in place with no obvious way of removing it without disassembling the entire print head.

I did get a screw driver (a nice blue one) but it is definitely too small (T6 is my estimate). Either that or my UM2 was build with larger screws for some reason.

Pretty much spot on. The grub screw in question is a silver one but other pullies have black ones.

I'm really looking forward to when this is available for the UM2. I think loading the other extruder up with the water soluble filament type and having the UM2 use that for support material will really open up a lot of possibilities that are not easily achieved up to now.

Is there any way to set the temperature and retraction length in Cura? On the BASIC tab (full settings mode) there is a section titled "Speed and Temperature" but only the speed property is actually visible.