chelys

Instead of using "Change Material" use "move material" (under advanced settings). Wait the hot end to reach the temperature. The jog dial is used to control the extruder motor. Use one hand to pull back the filament while with the dial move the motor in the same direction.

Illuminarti - Thank you again for the links. We are lucky to have persons like you supporting the Ultimaker community (and to spend time to write guides for noobs like me ).

Many thanks illuminarti. As you are familiar with the Marlin code, could you please tell me how to setup a tool chain for compiling the firmware? I read the instructions on github but I don't understand (find) the "arduino software IDE/toolset v23". Have you any link to this file? Thanks.

I don't know the way UM2 uses to perform the calibration. What I noticed is that even if the calibration seems perfect, the print starts with the extruded too close to the glass. I need to perform several calibrations before to have the right distance. But, more annoying, after a perfect print I often have the same issue in the next one. Do you know if the first step of the calibration (1mm) is taken into account or is it just a preliminary adjustment?

I'm using a Mac. I do a lot of abort printing because I have some troubles with bed leveling... So, I downgraded to the previous version of FW. Do you know if latest Cura works without problem with an old FW?

Hello, I don't know if you have a similar issue, with the new Cura/FW version (13.12 on UM2) when I abort a print the filament retracts by about 10cm.

Maybe the problem is related to the use of the transparent filament. The transparency could be influenced by the speed and by the temperature of the extruder. Try to use a "solid" filament and check if the problem persist. Whoops, I've not read that gold filament is not transparent...

Many thanks for the replies. It was obvious that there was a reason why a so useful function was not implemented. Now I know why However, the firmware upgrade seems to be fast. Is it another type of transfer?

Hello, maybe my idea is totally wrong but as the preferred way to print with UM2 is using the SD card, do you think would be possible to send the gcode directly to the SD card inserted in the UM2 (as a file)?

Are you kidding me?

It is not a very difficult fix; one or both the axes entering in the print head are not centered. In the present condition one side the axis could touch the internal panel and the other side is too far from the microswitch. Move the print head in the middle. Place your thumb on the bottom of the slider block and use your index finger to push out the axis. There is no need for excessive force. Do this on both ends, put the rod in place and click it back in.

Maybe I was not clear One hand must keep the printer head firm (put one of your fingers over the red dot), the other hand must gently pull up the fan holder. From the user manual you can see the correct "geometry" of the print head

I've just received the replacement of my U2 printer. Thanks Ultimaker!! I've the same "problem". Geeks it is not a real issue. As I can see in the picture you posted, the left fan is too close to the printer head block. Switch off the printer. Gently move the plate down. Gently move the head block in the middle in front of you. With one hand firmly block the print head. Avoid to touch the rear fan. With the other hand gently move up the left curved fan holder. You should have at least half centimeter of "air" between the holder and the head (at least on my printer). On page 19 of the user manual you can have an idea of the distance. Start again the calibration. If the holder still touch the left or right metal clip, repeat the step and increase a little bit the distance.

Thank you Illuminarti for the reply. For the curling I will try to use different settings. Yes, the middle fan is always on. About the missing layers, the head stop the current one and jump to the next one. Sometime the head stops in the middle of a printing and the filament continues to be released. According to the support, the problem could be still related to the front panel cables. I hope to find quickly a solution because the printer is not usable.

I printed the other part of the cover with the same results.... The head from time to time jump to the next layer without completing the current one. I looked at gcode using Repetier-Host and all paths are correct (no trouble in Cura). I guess is still a problem of my printer.

Thank you Illuminarti. Here is the gcode generated with default settings (quick print, normal quality): https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2227139/wrong-R_Pi_Crust_bottom.gcode.zip After, following your suggestions, I switched to expert settings and I used the 0.4 wall thickness. The generated gcode was printed without problems. As I'm a really newbie, could you please look at this pictures: As you can see, the right part of the robot (but in general of any printed object) is printed with a "lower resolution". In the first image you can see that the layer being printed is bent. Do you know how can I fix this problem? Thank you in advance.

I have some additional details about this problem. It happens when you: 1) abort the print 2) lower the build plate 3) remove and then add the SD 4) start the print again When I do this the second print (point 4) starts immediately.

A stupid question, is it normal that the calibration print is not centered over the build plate?

I tried to print a Raspberry PI case (here is the link http://www.thingiverse.com/download:188622 The way Cura made the slicing was not correct. After the first layer properly printed, UM2 started to skip some (large) portions of the other ones. I used the default parameters for UM2. Have you seen similar issues? Do you know how to fix it? Thanks.

Hi, I would like to suggest you an improvement to the Factory Defaults reset option of the UM2. During an investigation about a failure of my printer and after completing the first installation with success I have reset the printer to the factory defaults. The problem was that the printer had already the filament loaded. As it was not possible to skip this step during the initial setup, the printer tried to load again the filament with the result of "consuming" the small piece of filament inside the feed motor. The consequence was that the printer was not more able to feed the extruder. PS:I have not checked if the problem is still present with the latest firmware upgrade.

Hello, after the upgrade to the latest version of Cura (I guess) I noticed that when I abort a print (e.g. due to problems with the height of the build plate) and I perform the plate calibration, the next print will not heat the extruder. Have you noticed similar issue?

Is there any reason why nobody from sales and support is replying to my emails? Is there any holidays in Netherlands?

Ciao Marco, l'elenco dei problemi e' riportato in questo post: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3469-ultimaker-2-blocks-after-10-seconds-of-operations/ Premesso che ritengo la UM2 una delle migliori stampanti 3D (l'ho vista al MakerFaire di Roma ed ho potuto confrontare velocita' e risoluzione con quelle di altre stampanti). Il problema e' fondamentalmente l'assemblaggio (e da questa settimana anche la totale mancanza di supporto). La barra di scorrimento dell'asse X era spostata a destra e da una parte impediva alla stampante di "sentire" lo switch di fine corsa (i motori X e Y non si fermavano) dall'altra strusciava sul pannello interno. Questo primo problema penso fosse legato al packaging. Risolto il problema con il supporto di Sander ho visto che hanno prontamente modificato il blocco degli assi durante il trasporto (e' stato aggiornato anche lo user manual). Tutti gli altri problemi sono dovuti invece alla completa inesperienza della ditta che si occupa dell'assemblaggio: alcuni fili toccavano le cinghie dei motori, la cover dell'elettronica mi ha praticamente tagliato 2 dei 4 fili del motore Z e se guardi la foto del cablaggio ti rendi conto del casino che hanno combinato. Qualche corto circuito (forse proprio i fili del motore Z) ha fatto si che la stampante rimanesse bloccata. Rimossa la cover inferiore la stampante ha ripreso a funzionare. Attualmente la uso senza la cover per evitare altri problemi. Mi piacerebbe avere il feedback del supporto ma purtroppo hanno smesso di rispondermi (non so se sono stati in ferie questa settimana, lo spero fortemente). Quello che posso dirti e' che forse ricevendo la stampante a Dicembre non avrai molti dei problemi che, come puoi vedere, stanno riempiendo il forum.

Many thanks Robert. Good start however

Hello, is there any Assembly Guide for Ultimaker2? I need also the PCB schematic for the cabling. Thank you in advance.