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sigi

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Posts posted by sigi


  1. Inspired by Personal Drones post, I'd like to show some pictures of a redesign of Spidex Micro (on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:326062).

    The lateral parts got extended to mount the base plate upside down (for my understanding the correct orientation), the base plate got adjusted to be more stronger at the motor mounts, the mount for the FPV antenna got adjusted.

    Printed with PLA.

    Flying like a speedy bumblebee! :-P :-P :-P

    A first flight video will be available on Youtube soon (just uploading):

    20150301 110250

    20150305 222607

    20150305 222642

    20150305 222734

    20150307 174924

    20150308 123229

    20150311 204759

    20150311 204822

    20150311 204831

    20150311 204842

     


  2. Just did a second print with some adjusted settings:

     

    • Nozzle: 0,8 mm
    • Layer height: 0,3 mm
    • Print speed: 50 mm/s -> 30 mm/s
    • Temp: 210 -> 225°C
    • Fill Density: 100 %

    Here is the comparison picture:

    Olsson block 2

    Looks smoother now. However, this is still a 0,3 mm layer print. For high quality surfaces you have to go down to 0,1 mm layer height. However, for a technical print where the function of the part is important, the 0,3 mm layer height together with the 0,8 mm nozzle gives you a much, much, much quicker 'happy' finish! :cool:

     


  3. Maybe a small hint for replacing the original UM nozzle by the Olsson block:

     

    I accomplished this without disassembling the whole printing head.

     

    My way to replace it was as follows:

     

     

    • do an Atomic clean of the UM nozzle
    • remove the set of side fans by loosening two screws on the left and right (in total only 4 screws)
    • this gives access to the original UM nozzle/heaterblock
    • now heat up the nozzle to ~ 190 °C to soften stuck filament in the hot end isolator area (the coupler with the holes on the side)
    • with that you are now able to remove the original UM nozzle without any force by rotating the hot end isolator (the coupler with the holes on the side) using an Allen key
    • cool down the nozzle
    • remove the setscrew from the original UM nozzle/heaterblock
    • remove the heater cartridge and temp sensor (be careful! read the posts above about how to remove both without damaging them)
    • now you have to ensure that the spring pushes the PTFE coupler down so that no gap is visible between the hot end isolator and the PTFE coupler (maybe by rotating the PTFE coupler with a small pair of pliers)
    • remove the screw from the Olsson block
    • insert the heater cartride and temp sensor into the Olsson block
    • place the screw back into the Olsson block
    • mount the Olsson block on the print head by screwing it into the hot end isolator (the coupler with the holes on the side) using an Allen key
    • rotate the hot end isolator until the gap between the PTFE coupler and the hot end isolator is becoming ca. 1 mm
    • mount the set of side fans by fastening the two screws on the left and right of the print head
    • ensure that the metal where the side fans are mounted is not touching the Olsson block
    • before mounting the nozzle do a bed leveling with setting the gap between Olsson block and bed to ca. 2 cm
    • mount the nozzle into the Olsson block
    • level the bed
    • finished

     


  4. Quote:

     

    It's important that the isolator touches the heater block with no gap - otherwise plastic can get in there and cause problems so you should be able to see *some* gap between the isolator nut and the isolator.

     

    This is illogical...

     

    This is logical.

    - no gap between isolator and heater block

    - "some" gap between isolator nut and isolator

     


  5. Laut "Assembly Manual" bleibt der Anschluss ANALOG frei.

    Überprüfen solltest du hier lediglich ob "TEMP3" angeschlossen ist und ob "HEATED BED" angeschlossen ist. Das sind die 4 Leitungen die zum heated bed gehen.

    Der Rest passt ja.

    Wenn hier alles in Ordnung ist würde ich den Support mal kontaktieren.

     


  6. Hm, du kannst noch die Anschlüsse am anderen Ende der Leitungen zum Mainboard kontrollieren. Diese sind zum einen als "HEATED BED" gekennzeichnet (blau und braun) sowie als "TEMP3" (braun und weiß). Wenn hier alles passt, dann glaube ich solltest du dich mit dem Support bei Ultimaker in Verbindung setzen.

     


  7. Hallo Maximilian.

    Willkommen hier im Forum.

    Ich denke, dass dein Problem nicht durch den Ultimaker verursacht wird, sondern durch die SD-Karte.

    Hast du schon mal probiert ob das Formatieren der SD Karte das Problem behebt?

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