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sigi

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Everything posted by sigi

  1. :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P I'd like to see a part that looks like mold injected. However I will also try to print with 0,4 or 0,5.
  2. sigi

    Post your latest print!

    Inspired by Personal Drones post, I'd like to show some pictures of a redesign of Spidex Micro (on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:326062). The lateral parts got extended to mount the base plate upside down (for my understanding the correct orientation), the base plate got adjusted to be more stronger at the motor mounts, the mount for the FPV antenna got adjusted. Printed with PLA. Flying like a speedy bumblebee! :-P :-P :-P A first flight video will be available on Youtube soon (just uploading):
  3. Just did a second print with some adjusted settings: Nozzle: 0,8 mm Layer height: 0,3 mm Print speed: 50 mm/s -> 30 mm/s Temp: 210 -> 225°C Fill Density: 100 % Here is the comparison picture: Looks smoother now. However, this is still a 0,3 mm layer print. For high quality surfaces you have to go down to 0,1 mm layer height. However, for a technical print where the function of the part is important, the 0,3 mm layer height together with the 0,8 mm nozzle gives you a much, much, much quicker 'happy' finish! :cool:
  4. Maybe a small hint for replacing the original UM nozzle by the Olsson block: I accomplished this without disassembling the whole printing head. My way to replace it was as follows: do an Atomic clean of the UM nozzle remove the set of side fans by loosening two screws on the left and right (in total only 4 screws) this gives access to the original UM nozzle/heaterblock now heat up the nozzle to ~ 190 °C to soften stuck filament in the hot end isolator area (the coupler with the holes on the side) with that you are now able to remove the original UM nozzle without any force by rotating the hot end isolator (the coupler with the holes on the side) using an Allen key cool down the nozzle remove the setscrew from the original UM nozzle/heaterblock remove the heater cartridge and temp sensor (be careful! read the posts above about how to remove both without damaging them) now you have to ensure that the spring pushes the PTFE coupler down so that no gap is visible between the hot end isolator and the PTFE coupler (maybe by rotating the PTFE coupler with a small pair of pliers) remove the screw from the Olsson block insert the heater cartride and temp sensor into the Olsson block place the screw back into the Olsson block mount the Olsson block on the print head by screwing it into the hot end isolator (the coupler with the holes on the side) using an Allen key rotate the hot end isolator until the gap between the PTFE coupler and the hot end isolator is becoming ca. 1 mm mount the set of side fans by fastening the two screws on the left and right of the print head ensure that the metal where the side fans are mounted is not touching the Olsson block before mounting the nozzle do a bed leveling with setting the gap between Olsson block and bed to ca. 2 cm mount the nozzle into the Olsson block level the bed finished
  5. This Olsson block is so amazing. :-P A technical print which took me formerly 2 hours is now finished within less than half an hour. :-P :cool: :cool: Settings: Nozzle: 0,8 mm Layer height: 0,3 mm Print speed: 50 mm/s Temp: 210 Fill Density: 100 %
  6. I think, now it's time to show my (temporary) happy four walls. :cool: It's - hm, how to say, - hm - somehow a heated chamber....reducing warping nearly perfect ... also good for noise reduction. :cool:
  7. sigi

    Not had a successful print :(

    Have you also tried a different type of filament? I have one type of filament which is really a beast ....
  8. sigi

    Not had a successful print :(

    Try to clean the bed, maybe there is some grease/fat on it. Which speed are you printing? Set this to 50 mm/s Which layer height? Set this to 0,3 mm for the first layer 210C and 60C should be ok. If the bed is leveled, there should be everything okay to get a successful print.
  9. This is logical. - no gap between isolator and heater block - "some" gap between isolator nut and isolator
  10. swordriff, how is production going on? Do you have an update in regards to the shipment of the next batch of "The Olsson Block"? :cool:
  11. sigi

    Post your latest print!

    :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P
  12. sigi

    Nominated 5 times! :o

    Long time no type - it seems to be summertime.... :-P However: voted 5x
  13. sigi

    Ultimaker 2 Druckt nicht

    Laut "Assembly Manual" bleibt der Anschluss ANALOG frei. Überprüfen solltest du hier lediglich ob "TEMP3" angeschlossen ist und ob "HEATED BED" angeschlossen ist. Das sind die 4 Leitungen die zum heated bed gehen. Der Rest passt ja. Wenn hier alles in Ordnung ist würde ich den Support mal kontaktieren.
  14. sigi

    Ultimaker 2 Druckt nicht

    Einfach den Drucker zur Seite legen, dann siehst Du die Abdeckung des Mainboards. Diese ist mit 2 Schrauben gesichert.
  15. sigi

    Ultimaker 2 Druckt nicht

    Hm, du kannst noch die Anschlüsse am anderen Ende der Leitungen zum Mainboard kontrollieren. Diese sind zum einen als "HEATED BED" gekennzeichnet (blau und braun) sowie als "TEMP3" (braun und weiß). Wenn hier alles passt, dann glaube ich solltest du dich mit dem Support bei Ultimaker in Verbindung setzen.
  16. sigi

    ColorFabb testing Metalfill Bronze

    I ordered a roll of glowfill together with a roll bronzefill. The glowfill already arrived. @colorfabb: Do you already have an estimated shipping date for the bronzefill?
  17. sigi

    Ultimaker 2 Druckt nicht

    Hast du die Anschlüsse am Druckbett schon kontoliert? Evtl. ist dort eine Leitung lose.
  18. sigi

    Ultimaker 2 Druckt nicht

    Hallo Maximilian. Willkommen hier im Forum. Ich denke, dass dein Problem nicht durch den Ultimaker verursacht wird, sondern durch die SD-Karte. Hast du schon mal probiert ob das Formatieren der SD Karte das Problem behebt?
  19. Maybe the issue is the same as described here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4375-limit-switch-problem-solved/?p=38526 Just bend the fanholder a little bit in direction of the printhead.
  20. I think this is the same issue as described here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4375-limit-switch-problem-solved/?p=38526 You just have to bend the fan holder a little bit more in direction of the head.
  21. sigi

    What Program to make a model?

    With Blender you're able to import STL files and edit them.
  22. sigi

    Unsaubere Prints nach Filament Wechsel...

    ui, ui, ui .... ich würd' auf ca. 80°C aufheizen und dann probieren ob sich das Ganze lösen lässt. Evtl. mit der Temperatur noch etwas nach oben gehen.
  23. sigi

    Unsaubere Prints nach Filament Wechsel...

    Das Lüfterblech ist links und rechts jeweils mit 2 Schrauben befestigt. Der Rest des Kopfes muss dazu nicht zerlegt werden.
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