sigi
-
Posts
95 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by sigi
-
-
Inspired by Personal Drones post, I'd like to show some pictures of a redesign of Spidex Micro (on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:326062).
The lateral parts got extended to mount the base plate upside down (for my understanding the correct orientation), the base plate got adjusted to be more stronger at the motor mounts, the mount for the FPV antenna got adjusted.
Printed with PLA.
Flying like a speedy bumblebee! :-P :-P :-P
A first flight video will be available on Youtube soon (just uploading):
-
Just did a second print with some adjusted settings:
- Nozzle: 0,8 mm
- Layer height: 0,3 mm
- Print speed:
50 mm/s-> 30 mm/s - Temp:
210-> 225°C - Fill Density: 100 %
Here is the comparison picture:
Looks smoother now. However, this is still a 0,3 mm layer print. For high quality surfaces you have to go down to 0,1 mm layer height. However, for a technical print where the function of the part is important, the 0,3 mm layer height together with the 0,8 mm nozzle gives you a much, much, much quicker 'happy' finish! :cool:
- Nozzle: 0,8 mm
-
Maybe a small hint for replacing the original UM nozzle by the Olsson block:
I accomplished this without disassembling the whole printing head.
My way to replace it was as follows:
- do an Atomic clean of the UM nozzle
- remove the set of side fans by loosening two screws on the left and right (in total only 4 screws)
- this gives access to the original UM nozzle/heaterblock
- now heat up the nozzle to ~ 190 °C to soften stuck filament in the hot end isolator area (the coupler with the holes on the side)
- with that you are now able to remove the original UM nozzle without any force by rotating the hot end isolator (the coupler with the holes on the side) using an Allen key
- cool down the nozzle
- remove the setscrew from the original UM nozzle/heaterblock
- remove the heater cartridge and temp sensor (be careful! read the posts above about how to remove both without damaging them)
- now you have to ensure that the spring pushes the PTFE coupler down so that no gap is visible between the hot end isolator and the PTFE coupler (maybe by rotating the PTFE coupler with a small pair of pliers)
- remove the screw from the Olsson block
- insert the heater cartride and temp sensor into the Olsson block
- place the screw back into the Olsson block
- mount the Olsson block on the print head by screwing it into the hot end isolator (the coupler with the holes on the side) using an Allen key
- rotate the hot end isolator until the gap between the PTFE coupler and the hot end isolator is becoming ca. 1 mm
- mount the set of side fans by fastening the two screws on the left and right of the print head
- ensure that the metal where the side fans are mounted is not touching the Olsson block
- before mounting the nozzle do a bed leveling with setting the gap between Olsson block and bed to ca. 2 cm
- mount the nozzle into the Olsson block
- level the bed
- finished
- do an Atomic clean of the UM nozzle
-
sigi! at 226 maybe better! You have an insane throughput at these figures,
very roughly like 200mms w 040 nozzle!
Thanks for this hint! I will try that the next time. :-)
-
This Olsson block is so amazing. :-P
A technical print which took me formerly 2 hours is now finished within less than half an hour. :-P :cool: :cool:
Settings:
- Nozzle: 0,8 mm
- Layer height: 0,3 mm
- Print speed: 50 mm/s
- Temp: 210
- Fill Density: 100 %
- Nozzle: 0,8 mm
-
I think, now it's time to show my (temporary) happy four walls. :cool:
It's - hm, how to say, - hm - somehow a heated chamber....reducing warping nearly perfect
... also good for noise reduction. :cool:
-
Also just ordered the Block and nozzle kit. :-P
-
Have you also tried a different type of filament? I have one type of filament which is really a beast ....
-
Try to clean the bed, maybe there is some grease/fat on it.
Which speed are you printing? Set this to 50 mm/s
Which layer height? Set this to 0,3 mm for the first layer
210C and 60C should be ok.
If the bed is leveled, there should be everything okay to get a successful print.
-
Quote:
It's important that the isolator touches the heater block with no gap - otherwise plastic can get in there and cause problems so you should be able to see *some* gap between the isolator nut and the isolator.
This is illogical...This is logical.
- no gap between isolator and heater block
- "some" gap between isolator nut and isolator
-
swordriff, how is production going on?
Do you have an update in regards to the shipment of the next batch of "The Olsson Block"? :cool:
-
..... although they are in "Australian" mode.
:-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P
-
Long time no type - it seems to be summertime.... :-P
However: voted 5x
-
Laut "Assembly Manual" bleibt der Anschluss ANALOG frei.
Überprüfen solltest du hier lediglich ob "TEMP3" angeschlossen ist und ob "HEATED BED" angeschlossen ist. Das sind die 4 Leitungen die zum heated bed gehen.
Der Rest passt ja.
Wenn hier alles in Ordnung ist würde ich den Support mal kontaktieren.
-
Einfach den Drucker zur Seite legen, dann siehst Du die Abdeckung des Mainboards. Diese ist mit 2 Schrauben gesichert.
-
Hm, du kannst noch die Anschlüsse am anderen Ende der Leitungen zum Mainboard kontrollieren. Diese sind zum einen als "HEATED BED" gekennzeichnet (blau und braun) sowie als "TEMP3" (braun und weiß). Wenn hier alles passt, dann glaube ich solltest du dich mit dem Support bei Ultimaker in Verbindung setzen.
-
"" All bronzeFill pre-orders will be shipped separately when product is in stock and available. ""
I ordered a roll of glowfill together with a roll bronzefill. The glowfill already arrived.
@colorfabb: Do you already have an estimated shipping date for the bronzefill?
-
Hast du die Anschlüsse am Druckbett schon kontoliert? Evtl. ist dort eine Leitung lose.
-
Hallo Maximilian.
Willkommen hier im Forum.
Ich denke, dass dein Problem nicht durch den Ultimaker verursacht wird, sondern durch die SD-Karte.
Hast du schon mal probiert ob das Formatieren der SD Karte das Problem behebt?
-
Maybe the issue is the same as described here:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4375-limit-switch-problem-solved/?p=38526
Just bend the fanholder a little bit in direction of the printhead.
-
I think this is the same issue as described here:
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4375-limit-switch-problem-solved/?p=38526
You just have to bend the fan holder a little bit more in direction of the head.
-
...
Throw out some names of programs that will.
With Blender you're able to import STL files and edit them.
-
ui, ui, ui .... ich würd' auf ca. 80°C aufheizen und dann probieren ob sich das Ganze lösen lässt. Evtl. mit der Temperatur noch etwas nach oben gehen.
-
Das Lüfterblech ist links und rechts jeweils mit 2 Schrauben befestigt. Der Rest des Kopfes muss dazu nicht zerlegt werden.
Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
:-P :-P :-P :-P :-P :-P
I'd like to see a part that looks like mold injected.
However I will also try to print with 0,4 or 0,5.