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Everything posted by sigi

  1. Hast Du schon mal geschaut, ob sich evtl. schwarzes Filament hinter dem Lüfter-Blech am Hotend angesammelt hat und dieses sich nach und nach löst? Ich kann mir eigentlich nicht vorstellen, dass nach 11h immer noch schwarzes Filament aus dem Düsen-Inneren kommen kann.
  2. Welcome Anool to this forum! I'm using 3mm filament as well as 2.85mm filament. For the 3mm filament it's necessary that the diameter does not vary. If the whole spool of material is keeping the 3mm you shouldn't see a problem with the standard UM2 bowden. It might happen that feeding the 3mm filament to the nozzle needs some support by hand when entering the hot end, but that's the only 'problem' I saw until now with 3mm filament (in case the diameter is stable). You have to change the material setting on UM2 (increase the diameter from 2.85mm to 3mm). It's also possible to reduce the material flow.
  3. Hi Ian, Brilliant design! :-P You're using 3 ball bearings in this feeder design. Are these identical ones? Do you have some information which type they are? I assume the one at the knurled wheel is from the original feeder. Not sure if this information is somewhere in the last posts. I tried to find this information, but was not successful. Thanks!
  4. For those who want to also get an excavator: Now available on https://www.youmagine.com/designs/excavator: Have fun! :-P :-P :-P
  5. I never calculated how expensive a son will be until he starts to have breakfast in his own four walls .... :-P :-P :-P Not sure if a 3D printer might be cheaper ... :shock: Anyhow you should definitely start producing .... a son :-P Printing toys together with a son is the 'real tinkering'. :cool:
  6. Dieses Verhalten dürfte beim UM1 auch autreten. Kann es sein, dass beim Druck auf dem UM1 mehrere Teile gleichzeitig gedruckt wurden? Dann haben die einzelnen Layer nämlich mehr Zeit um abzukühlen. Dies würde beim UM2 auch Abhilfe schaffen. Einfach das Teil mehrfach drucken oder mit anderen Teilen zusammen drucken. In Cura gibt es noch die Möglichkeit die minimal Layer Time einzustellen. Dann wartet der UM2 die hier eingestellte Zeit bis der nächste Layer begonnen wird.
  7. What I learned since Friday is, that drawing and rendering on the PC is far away from the reality. :-P :-P It took some attempts to get all the prints finished in a way that everything fits together. But this noon the last part went out of the UM2. Next the first pictures of my son's new excavator: :-P :cool: :-P I would be thankful for some advice about which filament to use for the chains to get them flexible. Which flexible filament should I try?
  8. It took some time to finish the drawings. Now, just in time for the weekend the files are ready to go onto the UM2. After 'Helicopter' and 'Biplane' I'm happy to present :-P : More (real) pictures hopefully coming this evening. :-P :-P
  9. Cool! The biplane and I think the helicopter behind the rabbit ... both on your booth .... :-P :-P :-P Thank you! I'm really pleased! :-P
  10. @ hacklordsniper: These two pictures helped me yesterday evening a lot! I had exactly the same issue that the left fan was hitting the housing of the Ultimaker 2. My first idea was also to check the limit switch. However the fan holder was bent not enough. Very strange as at the beginning I hadn't any issue with hitting the housing. Maybe this is somehow caused by the acceleration of the print head, causing the fan holder to slightly bend outwards and at some point hitting the housing. Anyway: Issue solved! :-P Thanks for the two pictures!
  11. Ohne ein Bild ist es schwierig eine Aussage zu treffen. Jedoch, wie telophar schon geschrieben hat, solltest Du die Print speed in Cura überprüfen. Dies ist nämlich die im gcode File verankerte Geschwindigkeit. Am UM2 kannst Du dann prozentual von diesem Wert aus regeln wie schnell du Drucken willst. Erst mal langsam anfangen. 50 mm/sec (in Cura) sollte definitiv ohne Probleme funktionieren. Dann am UM2 auf 100% stellen, dann läuft der Ultimaker auch genau mit diesen 50 mm/sec.
  12. I'm using the WoodFill 'FINE' with the standard 0,4 mm nozzle without problems until now. Others (see previous posts) are using it with a 0,8 mm nozzle.
  13. Hallo Tim. Willkommen hier im Forum! Wie gr5 schreibt: Ein Foto ist hilfreich. Zusätzlich dazu bitte auch noch die Druck-Einstellungen posten (Temperatur, Geschwindigkeit, Layerhöhe, ....). Ein erster Ansatz könnte sein, dass Du viel zu schnell gedruckt hast. Aber um mehr sagen zu können sind die oben erwähnten Infos notwendig.
  14. Hi 3D Magic. Sounds good :-P. I'm looking forward to seeing a picture of the WoodFill helicopter landed in the Netherlands. :-P
  15. Two days ago I now also received a spool of colorFabb WoodFill 'FINE' (the one that is working with a 0,4 mm nozzle). The very first impression after a first print: This material is wonderful! However it's not that easy to print as standard PLA. Here are some findings I learned during the first two evenings working with this material: - I first tried to print with a heated bed. That doesn't make sense as WoodFill will not stick better to a heated bed. Set the temperature of the bed to 0°C. - Printing on the glass plate without any glue doesn't work. Therefore use the UM2 bundled glue stick. - Layer height: 0,27 mm - Shell thickness: 0,8 mm - Initial layer Thickness: 0,3 mm - Enable retraction: off I didn't test retraction with WoodFill, I think retraction might be a reason for getting nozzle clogs with Woodfill as the material gets in and out of the nozzle. For my understanding a constant material flow makes more sense to avoid nozzle clogs. It's not a big issue, as the excess material can be easily cut by a knife. - Bottom/top thickness: 0,8 mm - Fill Density: 20 % - Print speed: 60 mm/s - Nozzle temp: 230 °C At the very beginning I got the problem, that the filament didn't stick as expected to the bed. I never have an issue with standard PLA, therefore I think it's not a bed leveling issue. Maybe this is caused by the 'fluffy' characteristic of WoodFill. I started experimenting with the material flow for the first layer. It turned out, that increasing the material flow just for the first layer (by using the TUNE menu on UM2) solves this issue. I used values between 120 - 140% for the first layer. I think the exact value depends on how exact the bed is leveled. One word to nozzle clogs: Until now (ok, I'm using this printer only for a few weeks now) I never got a nozzle clog. I changed filament nearly on a daily base, using different vendors. I never printed with temperatures higher than 230°C. The last two days when using WoodFill I always ended the printing session in the evening by changing back to PLA and extruding this until no leftovers of WoodFill were visible. This can be very easily checked by using white PLA. I already showed some pictures of WoodFill printed objects in the "Post your latest print!" thread. However to round this post out, next two pictures of what's possible with colorFabb Woodfill: It's definitely worth to try! An awesome material! :-P :-P :-P
  16. Hi Aaron, thanks for the comment. I'm not sure if I have really tamed the WoodFill beast on UM2. However what I figured out is that there is a rapid raising learning curve with using this filament. I will post a 'how I'm using WoodFill' in the appropriate thread (http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3316-colorfabbs-new-woodfill-pla-hehehe/) tomorrow. In the meantime, my aircraft fleet got some additional support. We're now flying with 2 helicopters :-P and a brand-new biplane :-P : And I think this is also the limit what's possible with WoodFill. The diameter of the supports carrying the upper wing is only 2,5 mm. I wondered that they still came out to be usable. Again: a real wonderful material (maybe I'm here somehow inherited as my grandpa and my uncles have been and are still carpenters...)
  17. Thanks for the brownie points! :-P You're so right with handling woodfill - but it's the headache worth!
  18. Received yesterday my first spool (and I'm sure it's not the last one) of colorFabb WoodFill. Just in time for the maiden flight - oops, maiden print of the helicopter my sun and me designed last Sunday (my sun as the art director, me as the heavy worker with too low salary :-P ) : What a wonderful material! :-P
  19. I also see this upload errors. Seems to be a problem on the server side and not on the client.
  20. No, no, no! The Robot is very good to have lot of fun: :-P :-P :-P
  21. Yes, I also love this color very much. However the filament is a beast. It's from iGo3D: https://www.igo3d.com/en/filament-1-kg-yellow-3mm-pla.html The diameter is 3 mm (not 2.85). It doesn't like to easily stick on the build platform. I had to experiment with the temperature a while, ended up that 75° is a good value (where I print all other filaments with 60°). For every print with this yellow PLA I have to use the glue stick for the heated bed. And all this still sometimes causes that the PLA doesn't stick to the build platform while printing the first two layers. In case these two layers are okay, the whole print will finish without problems. It seems as if this color causes the PLA to have a somehow different consistency compared to other filaments. Nevertheless, I like the color! :-P
  22. COOOOOL! Like an orchestra. I was only able to finish one within the last half hour: Let me count .. with that orchestra that would mean 1 + 1 + 1 + 1 + 1 + ...... a whole class of young girls made happy within minutes ... :-P
  23. Good idea - I just downloaded the file to do a test print. However I'm not sure if I will show it to my kids. They are in a girls' school - not sure how this will end up ... :-P
  24. Last Monday my children came back from school with a huge order for key-chains. All started already 3 weeks ago where I printed key-chains for my two girls. Their schoolmates asked them, if I would also create some for them. Carelessly I agreed :-P :-P :-P The order was really huge: It was really a lot of fun to print these key-chains.
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