shurik

Well, my now nearly 6-years old UM2 came to the point of being totally non-functional due to the error mentioned above. it took me several rounds of disassembling, checking, soldering and desperation. All that until I finally found this thread and got on the right track - PT100 resistance. It wasn't there. Knowing now where the problem is, it was fixed in 5 minutes of yet another soldering round and resulting resistance verification. All in all, many thanks to @gr5, @Torgeir and @Silures for the guidance! P.S. Ordered replacement board nevertheless.

Thanks a lot! That's kind of reply I was hoping for, much appreciated.

OK, let's ask simpler question - does anyone use Matchless block and can recommend it?

My UM2 is soon going to turn 6 years old and it is unbelievable machine. Olsson block was installed once it got released, way, way back. It's parts show the age and wear and tear, so I am thinking of replacing/upgrading it. There are some options on 3dsolex site and an advise would be appreciated. Should I go for a new original Olsson block? Or to buy Matchless one? What benefit if any would it do? Maybe, there other quality nozzle/PTFE suppliers out there? After all, brass nozzles and Teflon insulators from 3dsolex do not last as long as I would wish them to be. And if asking - what fan shroud would you recommend to replace the original one? Many ways to go - would appreciate your opinions.

After a while, the yoke and maybe, some other parts become distorted and bent. I just keep another set of Robert's feeder details and replace them from time to time when their time is due. After printing a replacement set, you may disassemble the feeder and almost certainly some parts will look worn out.

+1.

UM2+ Reloaded! Would you believe I still use my 5.5 years-old UM2 and it is as good as ever? If time comes to replace it, just another one of the same class would do.

I use TitanX of Formfutura and absolutely love this stuff. Zero warping, almost no smell, sticks to glass so much that I had to buy a new glass bed because of the cracks in the glass. The only disadvantage for me is rather limited colors choice - we print prosthetic hands for kids and they generally like colorful parts.

Hi aubij, Could you elaborate please about your method of generating the city landscapes?

Fantastic! Do you paint them after printing?

Well, the amount of the replies is overwhelming... ? Is it something in the post?

I'm running out of black ABS and need to re-stock. What are your recommendations for best quality ABS available in Europe? I mainly print parts of prosthetic hands for children and such, so it must be durable and to look good - top quality, in short. Thanks, Alexander

Hi Sander, I do have some black dust under the belts on my 4-years old UM2 but it works yet. Do you suggest any special maintenance in this case?

Hi, Yes. These are my settings for TPU (Ninjaflex): [material] name=Ninjaflex temperature=220 bed_temperature=50 fan_speed=100 flow=103 diameter=2.85 You can copy-paste them into your profile file.

Guten Tag @Giuseppe Nagler, Meshmixer has the option of taking the outer shell of a model. Try to play with it.