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  1. Yep, it was this connection on the heated bed. Unfortunately I couldn't solder mine quite so easily. It failed again after 5 minutes. I can't help feeling that a connector that went through the PCB rather than one than sat on top of it, would be more reliable. This is the 3rd time this has failed for me and don't do that much printing. :-(
  2. Thanks GR5. It does read the correct ambient when cold but when heating up it doesn't. The reported temp shoots up but the actual temp is bearly warm. However I get the same result with a different plate, so I'm thinking the error is with the cable or connection at the PCB end or PCB itself.
  3. Hi all, I've been printing fine with my UM2 for many months. My last print came detached and after a little investigative work found the bed temperature was only about 30 degrees C. I haven't changed anything with my setup for about 10 months so it's nothing I've done recently. The UM2 screen reports back a temperature of 105 (the target temperature), but it reaches this very quickly (about 60 seconds) rather than the expected 10-15 minutes). The actual temperature is about 30 degrees even after 25 minutes. After about 30 minutes I get: ' ERROR - STOPPED Temp Sensor Bed' I've swapped over
  4. Hi Pete, no problem, ask away, if I can find the answer easily, I'll let you know. The features that Troy has mentioned about Netfabb are also possible, although implementation is slightly different for some cases. I particularly like the fact that you can print both sparse infill and support material in alternate directions for alternate layers, so rather than each layer of sparse infill being a complete square grid, its actually a series of parallel lines at your chosen density. The layer before, and after, the current layer is at 90 degrees to this (or any angle you specify). You can also m
  5. Hi Yellowshark, I've sent you a PM with the email address of the support chap I've been dealing with but I didn't think it appropriate to post on the forum. He has been very helpful and always responded within 12 hours, allowing for different time zones. They do have a contact page but they don't give out the email. Unfortunately there is no trial version and documentation is only in the form of overview tutorials. You could also try the S3D forum for feedback on dual extrusion. What specifically do you want to know? I could have a look for you and send you some screen shots. Obviously I can't
  6. Nicolinux, the filament has no manufacturers brand name unfortunately. The chocolate one is actually sold as 'copper' but I think bronze is a better description. The supplier is wedo3dprinting on ebay uk
  7. Ok, so this is the opposite of a stress test, in fact the opposite of every other print on this thread, but I just wanted to show a range of nice ABS colours I've just bought. The thing I'm pleased about is that I printed them all with the exact same settings on my UM2. If I can get nice even prints without any tuning I feel confident I can tweak each one if needed to get the result I'm after. 15 Different Filaments in total. The black red and white are Ultimaker stock the metallics (gold, silver and bronze) actually have a metal fleck in to give the effect. They print a bit woolly, alm
  8. Oh, I should add, I've only been using for a couple of weeks. I haven't found any bugs and I haven't had any crashes, but you know sometimes these things can vary from machine to machine.
  9. I know it supports dual extrusion, but because I have a UM2 (with one extruder) and I haven't looked at any other slicing software with focus on dual extrusion I can't really say whether its any good. But here's a tutorial link, you may be able to judge for yourself. http://www.simplify3d.com/support/tutorials/printing-with-multiple-extruders/
  10. I don't have any experience of Repetier Host but I can tell you why I like Simplify3D. I prefer the way it’s structured compared to Cura. It uses 'processes' to control all the settings. Each process contains all the information required to write gCode for either the whole model, part of a model or one or more models of the several you may have on the build platform. You can either build all models at the same time or sequentially, like you can in Cura. However because each process can be different it allows you to have models with multi-zone characteristics. Different densities of interna
  11. If you look at any active forum for any 3D printer you'll find people who have issues and problems. People tend to use forums to sort out problems. I had a couple myself that were easily resolved. Ultimaker and a few people in the forum gave immediate assistance. One of the huge benefits of the UM forum is the wealth of experience of it's members and their willingness to help out. As to price tag and the 'Prosumer' label. To be honest, as a hobby, its a luxury, an indulgence to own a 3D printer, but as a professional user, building models for commercial purposes, these things are cheap. Real
  12. In case anyone is interested, here are my Simplify3D settings that I use with my UM2. I've only used ABS so I don't know what the PLA setting would be. They are pretty much standard with a few tweaks on temperature. The standard PLA settings are probably worth a try. Just past this text into a notebook file named *.fff (* being whatever you what to call it). Then import within the S3D software. it uses 0.15mm steps with a 0.1mm first layer. I run my UM2 in a small metal cabinet which gets upto about 27 degrees in the middle. I also use ABS juice and occasionally a brim. I don't seem so far to
  13. Here's the Dropbox link. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11059439/UM2%20Bed%20Levelling%20Screw%20Cap.zip You may have to scale up or down a little to get a press fit. I printed them in ABS, so PLA may need a tweak.
  14. Hi All, I made these a few days ago and although very simple, I find them extremely useful. Its so simple I feel a little embarrassed to start a thread, but they have helped so much, I thought I would share. Its just a small plastic cap which press fits over the end of the adjustment screw with a pointer so I can easily see and adjust the rotation. I've found this makes levelling the bed while you're printing a first layer, ideally a brim, exceptionally easy. I can now accurately raise or lower the bed using all three screws by exactly the same amount. With a perfectly round thumb screw
  15. I think the freezing idea is also not a good idea. I've seen on some other forums how the bond can be so good between the hot glass and plastic that during rapid cooling/contraction some people have actually had small shards of glass plucked off their heated plates by the plastic. I suspect that is a combination of extreme differential cooling (causing high surface stresses) and the plastic adhesion. It only takes a few minutes of natural cooling before the print can be easily removed. Damaging your glass plate isn't the end of the world but I don't think a few minutes extra waiting is really
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