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amont

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  1. Thanks Daid. Have only seen your post recently but have now put a new coupler in my UM2 and this looks like it has fixed the problem.
  2. I have also started having problems with printing at 0.2 layer height. I used to be able to switch between 0.1 and 0.2 without problems or having to change settings but now 0.2 has become unusable. I have tried different materials from different manufacturers and cleaning the nozzle in case this was causing the under extrusion but it has not solved the problem. I have also started having problems with pillowing at 0.1 on models that printed OK previously. In view of the fact I have had other problems with Cura 2.3.1 I have reverted to using 15.04.3 however this has not helped either, which leads me to think that something that has been changed in the firmware (which I have not put back - I don't know if that is possible) is causing the problem.
  3. Thank you DaHai8 - this has cured the problem but also leaves me wondering quite what is going on. No red appeared in X-ray mode. I use Cinema 4D. I reversed all the normals on the main body (not the holes) which were showing all facing the same way, which fixed the problem, but again when in Cura one of the large flat faces is showing in red suggesting it thinks the normals on the two large surfaces are not facing the same way (inward/outward). I am surprised turning through 90 degrees should have any effect on a problem like this, and why do earlier versions of Cura not have a problem? Thanks for the help.
  4. I have been through all the Mesh fix options without success. Here are some screenshots. [media=31499] [/media] I cannot find out how to attach the stl file.
  5. Nothing comes up in x-ray mode, no boxes are ticked in Preferences - mesh fixes.
  6. Cura 2.3.1 is not recognizing vertical holes (stopped and full) in object. These holes are recognized in earlier versions of Cura. Curiously these holes are recognized when the object is turned through 90 degrees in Cura 2.3.1 (this is not a practical orientation in which to print the object). This problem needs to be fixed.
  7. I bought the nozzles in June from direct from 3dSolex. I have bought more nozzles from the UK agent which arrived yesterday, and the same micro drill will pass through them. They do of course have 0.4 marked on them.
  8. There is one dot on the nozzle. Since my original post I have found another thread https://ultimaker.com/en/community/8689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2-the-olsson-block page 30 which refers to considerable confusion regarding the nozzle markings and the fact that some wrong sizes were sent out. I must be the recipient of some of that batch.
  9. Having fitted a new nozzle to my Olsson block last week the printer under extruded. I fitted the original one again and it printed OK. Suspicious, I have tried to pass 0.3 micro drill through the new nozzle and it will not go. I believe these spare nozzles (which I bought last June) are 0.25 and not the 0.4 I ordered. I am going to attempt to drill them out. Others have posted about under extrusion with the Olsson block and I believe they should check this possibility.
  10. I have now had a chance to check the machine properly again and Illuminati you were right on the money. One of the red wires to the stepper motor above was pinched behind the extruder motor. I released it and the machine works as normal. The wire is presumably damaged but I would rather not attempt a repair if I can get away without it. Thanks to Illuminati, EldRick and anon4321. I will take a look at Robert's feeder. Also a warning to others not to repeat my mistake while working on their feeder mechanism and to watch out for what is happening on the inside of the cabinet while they are struggling to hold everything together round the back.
  11. Thanks for your replies. Yes I can still print - it prints fine. What I do (with power off) is manually push the print head back to rear left position at the start before I print. It still does a little bit of 'belt grinding' as it comes forward to a front left position but only momentarily. I will try Pronterface as you suggest - I have not come across it before so it may take me a while to get myself sorted.
  12. I have recently had two problems with my UM2 the second of which I still need help with. Firstly the feeding of filament has gradually been getting more erratic until it no longer worked at all, and for some time it has been unable to withdraw filament and I have been having to pull it out manually. Having tried everything else I eventually decided to dismantle the feeder and discovered that the filament was not running between the knurled wheel and the bearing because the hole in the plastic beneath them was so worn the filament was actually between the knurled wheel and the white plastic of the tension mechanism at the back. I have cured this by gluing a 4mm x 4mm piece of square section brass rod to the back of the black plastic casing thereby forcing the filament into a more central position in the feeder mechanism again. This will work as long as the super glue holds out but there is not a lot of room in there to do much else. Others with similar feeder problems may want to look out for this. The other problem I have is that the print head now parks front left at the end of a print which I assume is the reason that when starting the next print it now does that awful thing where the belts ride over the pulleys as it tries to move forward but can't. The knurled heads of the screws on the top of the print head hit the front edge of the top panel. I can't see anything wrong and have tried factory reset to no avail. Does anybody know what is going on and how to fix it? Thanks in advance.
  13. Sorry - I have apparently hit the wrong button ! ? Front: no gap Left: 0.7mm Right: 0.2mm Back: 0.2mm It seems the aluminium sheet has warped (I assume the glass has remained flat). I have for some time been dragging items to the front of buildplate in Cura as a matter of course in order to minimise the effect but unfortunately the problem seems to be getting worse. See photo.
  14. I have been having similar problem, in my case the problem seemed to be in the rear left quadrant. To the front and right the brim option would produce a nice flat sheet but left and rear it would inevitably be stringy. The problem persisted through several bed levelling's and completely baffled me - the bed seemed to be different temperatures in different areas. This was confirmed by a crude and unscientific touch test - I don't have a thermometer that would help me with this. I put a feeler gauge between the glass plate and the aluminium bed and this revealed the following:
  15. Apart from the unusual angle (and that it was doing on one side and not the other) which I have never seen before, it was the fact that each layer was being laid in the same direction without any crosshatching, which I thought might lead to delamination, but this does not seem to have happened. I don't think it can be trying to bridge as this was building up the bottom surface.
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