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amont

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Posts posted by amont


  1. I have also started having problems with printing at 0.2 layer height.

    I used to be able to switch between 0.1 and 0.2 without problems or having to change settings but now 0.2 has become unusable.

    5a332725ac977_0.2layer1.thumb.jpg.61457b1b97011d22b9aba13e12092486.jpg

    I have tried different materials from different manufacturers and cleaning the nozzle in case this was causing the under extrusion but it has not solved the problem.

    I have also started having problems with pillowing at 0.1 on models that printed OK previously.

    pillowing1.thumb.jpg.e739413b8ec85307ccec3fdb86f60996.jpg

    In view of the fact I have had other problems with Cura 2.3.1 I have reverted to using 15.04.3 however this has not helped either, which leads me to think that something that has been changed in the firmware (which I have not put back - I don't know if that is possible) is causing the problem.

    5a332725ac977_0.2layer1.thumb.jpg.61457b1b97011d22b9aba13e12092486.jpg

    pillowing1.thumb.jpg.e739413b8ec85307ccec3fdb86f60996.jpg


  2. Thank you DaHai8 - this has cured the problem but also leaves me wondering quite what is going on.

    No red appeared in X-ray mode.

    I use Cinema 4D.

    I reversed all the normals on the main body (not the holes) which were showing all facing the same way, which fixed the problem, but again when in Cura one of the large flat faces is showing in red suggesting it thinks the normals on the two large surfaces are not facing the same way (inward/outward).

    I am surprised turning through 90 degrees should have any effect on a problem like this, and why do earlier versions of Cura not have a problem?

    Thanks for the help.


  3. Cura 2.3.1 is not recognizing vertical holes (stopped and full) in object.

    These holes are recognized in earlier versions of Cura.

    Curiously these holes are recognized when the object is turned through 90 degrees in Cura 2.3.1 (this is not a practical orientation in which to print the object).

    This problem needs to be fixed.


  4. Having fitted a new nozzle to my Olsson block last week the printer under extruded.

    I fitted the original one again and it printed OK.

    Suspicious, I have tried to pass 0.3 micro drill through the new nozzle and it will not go.

    I believe these spare nozzles (which I bought last June) are 0.25 and not the 0.4 I ordered.

    I am going to attempt to drill them out.

    Others have posted about under extrusion with the Olsson block and I believe they should check this possibility.


  5. I have now had a chance to check the machine properly again and Illuminati you were right on the money.

    One of the red wires to the stepper motor above was pinched behind the extruder motor.

    I released it and the machine works as normal. The wire is presumably damaged but I would rather not attempt a repair if I can get away without it.

    Thanks to Illuminati, EldRick and anon4321.

    I will take a look at Robert's feeder.

    Also a warning to others not to repeat my mistake while working on their feeder mechanism and to watch out for what is happening on the inside of the cabinet while they are struggling to hold everything together round the back.

     


  6. Thanks for your replies.

    Yes I can still print - it prints fine.

    What I do (with power off) is manually push the print head back to rear left position at the start before I print. It still does a little bit of 'belt grinding' as it comes forward to a front left position but only momentarily.

    I will try Pronterface as you suggest - I have not come across it before so it may take me a while to get myself sorted.

     


  7. I have recently had two problems with my UM2 the second of which I still need help with.

    Firstly the feeding of filament has gradually been getting more erratic until it no longer worked at all, and for some time it has been unable to withdraw filament and I have been having to pull it out manually.

    Having tried everything else I eventually decided to dismantle the feeder and discovered that the filament was not running between the knurled wheel and the bearing because the hole in the plastic beneath them was so worn the filament was actually between the knurled wheel and the white plastic of the tension mechanism at the back.

    feeder1

    I have cured this by gluing a 4mm x 4mm piece of square section brass rod to the back of the black plastic casing thereby forcing the filament into a more central position in the feeder mechanism again. This will work as long as the super glue holds out but there is not a lot of room in there to do much else.

    Others with similar feeder problems may want to look out for this.

    The other problem I have is that the print head now parks front left at the end of a print

    park1

    which I assume is the reason that when starting the next print it now does that awful thing where the belts ride over the pulleys as it tries to move forward but can't. The knurled heads of the screws on the top of the print head hit the front edge of the top panel.

    park2

    I can't see anything wrong and have tried factory reset to no avail.

    Does anybody know what is going on and how to fix it?

    Thanks in advance.

     


  8. printbed test

    Sorry - I have apparently hit the wrong button ! ?

    Front: no gap

    Left: 0.7mm

    Right: 0.2mm

    Back: 0.2mm

    It seems the aluminium sheet has warped (I assume the glass has remained flat).

    I have for some time been dragging items to the front of buildplate in Cura as a matter of course in order to minimise the effect but unfortunately the problem seems to be getting worse.

    See photo.

    printbed test

     


  9. I have been having similar problem, in my case the problem seemed to be in the rear left quadrant.

    To the front and right the brim option would produce a nice flat sheet but left and rear it would inevitably be stringy. The problem persisted through several bed levelling's and completely baffled me - the bed seemed to be different temperatures in different areas. This was confirmed by a crude and unscientific touch test - I don't have a thermometer that would help me with this.

    I put a feeler gauge between the glass plate and the aluminium bed and this revealed the following:

     


  10. Apart from the unusual angle (and that it was doing on one side and not the other) which I have never seen before, it was the fact that each layer was being laid in the same direction without any crosshatching, which I thought might lead to delamination, but this does not seem to have happened.

    I don't think it can be trying to bridge as this was building up the bottom surface.

     


  11. I have just downloaded Cura 4.01 and while watching the first few layers of a print realized a curious anomaly while it was crosshatching.

    On one side of what is basically a symmetrical print the crosshatching was as normal with alternating 45 degree layers on the other side the layers were almost in line with the Y axis and did not alternate. I noticed this repeated some layers higher in the same print.

    Going back and reviewing the print in Cura 'layers' mode confirmed this. See attached screen grab.

    Curapic

    I assume this should not be happening. Has anyone else noticed this?

     


  12. Thanks Hacklordsniper

    Obvious now that you point it out.

    How the *!?*!?*!? did I manage to do that?

    It must have happened on a failed print and got caught on the resulting mess somehow. But it took more force than you might think under the circumstances to bend it back again.

    Thanks again.

     


  13.  

    When the print head on my UM2 goes to its park position it does not know when it has arrived and does that awful thing where the belts ride over the pulleys.

     

    It turns out that the left hand fan housing is hitting the side before the limit switch is tripped by the slider block.

    Nothing on the print head seems to be out of place and I have loosened the screws on the limit switch and moved it as far right as it will go.

    With the print head fan housing hard against the side the slider block is still about 4mm from tripping the limit switch.

    The horizontal distance from the side to the point at which the limit switch trips (A)must have to be greater than the distance from the side of the fan housing to the side of slider block (B).

    I am completely baffled as to what has happened.

    printer3

    printer2

    Looking at the photos can anyone see what is out of place? It is not possible to take a useful photo when the print head is on the left.

     


  14. Thanks for the help gr5, I have now done some successful prints.

    I re-calibrated the print bed - this is something I do regularly but I did again just to be sure. But I am sure what made the difference was bringing the bed temperature down to 30C.

    This was going to be my first attempt of what I thought might be several, working down the temperature range, to find a solution but in the event it worked straight away - I did not really want to get involved with tape unless I absolutely had to.

    The prints are good but not really any better than what I have already achieved with regular PLA, and they are slightly flexible which does not help my cause. Also, being a natural colour, it is translucent which does not make inspecting the results any easier.

    I don't think I will bother with it again.

     


  15. I bought a spool of PLA 45 in the hope of achieving dimensionally accurate prints on my UM2 but have had no success with it.

    In fact it has produced amongst the worst prints I have ever had, greatly distorted and the bottom of the prints lifting to such an extent that the surface turns into one large curve. This in turn means that they refuse to remain attached to the glass and I find a tangled mess being dragged around the build plate.

    There is nothing on the Orbi-tech website that helps.

    Does anyone out there have successful experience of PLA 45 who can tell me what settings they used?

    Ironically, and contrary to all advice, by far the best material I have used so far has been cheaper stuff bought on Ebay. It is harder and more brittle than the more expensive brands and because of this combined with the fact it is sold on spools with too small a diameter it breaks into 50-60mm lengths when getting towards the end of the roll.

    BUT...... when it works it produces the best surface finish with no dimensional distortion that I can detect. No lifting, no partially printed layers, no 'waist' 1-4mm up from the build plate. This may have something to do with the fact that it is a harder material. If I cannot get better results with the more expensive brands I will have to revert to using it and accept that I have discard the end of the role. I doubt it will work out any more expensive (1kg v 100m, free delivery, etc). Colour is not important to me (although white or light grey is best for examining the results).

    Further to the discussion started by Shurik 'Seeking advice on print settings' and the subsequent replies I would be delighted if Ultimaker or an experienced user would produce a cheat sheet. This has been raised before but seems to have come to nothing.

    I realize that there is no 'one size fits all' solution but at least a starting point for the various settings for various materials, perhaps in the form of a table, would help.

    Also some basic introduction as to how the various settings influence the output.

    I also appreciate that for many tinkering with these machines is a major part of the enjoyment of having them but as much as I enjoy using my UM2 I need to get things made and spending hours scouring google for the odd bit of information here or there is not a good use of my time.

    I hope someone can help.

    Thanks for reading.

     


  16. Hello Dave

    I have had the same exactly problem since updating firmware to 14.01.2 on my UM2.

    I have increasingly had to use 'heat nozzle/move material' to get started after changing material. ( I have also been using the start print wait for it to come through, abort, start again trick but it doesn't always work).

    After the update as you say - not a sound (nor anything else) 50% of the time when trying to use 'move material'.

    I have not tried the switch off, switch on again method but I will try it next time I have to change material

     


  17. Thanks for the help.

    The scraping issue wasn't actually the print head but the print bed, but Ultimaker are going to do something about it. My attempts with tape are not successfully holding the shielding back for any length of time.

    I have run a little multiple print test using Cura 13.11.2 rather than 13.11 as before and nothing got hit so I think this has been fixed. (It isn't listed in the overview of changes on the web page so I didn't think anything had been done).

     


  18. Hello Illuminarti

    My front axis rod has also dropped out today (mine decided to go right). I have pushed it back but am not sure how to make sure it stays there. The rear rod was also on the move.

    Along with the print bed scraping the unsecured shielding at the rear right and screws dropping out of the print head this machine is keeping me on my toes.

    The Cura multiple print option not preventing the print head colliding with previous prints means that I will not be using that again.

    Nevertheless I am enjoying the results when the machine does work so hopefully there will come a time (in the not too distant future) when these bugs are fixed and it will be able to achieve its full potential.

     

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