thirty6

Its Elmers PVA that people rave about in the US i think. Heat the bed to 60deg, brush the 50/50 mix on and let it dry, then print. Everything sticks and comes off with a high gloss base, XT, PLA, Nylon etc. Okay you can use the glue stick that comes with the kit but I prefer the brush on method for a cleaner finish. I use it on my UM2, UM 1's and the Printrbot Plus.

The upgrade is definitely worth it and helps bridges the gap to the UM2. Scrap the glue stick though, 50 / 50 water and PVA and apply with a brush works fantastic.

Yes you found the fault You are a hero

It moved 130mm by from asking the bed to move 100mm Current Zsteps/mm: +0533.3

Sorry thought the pronteface measurement was a bit vague and i had to swap a stepper motors over as the heat sink was missing. So that is when i printed the 10mm cube so i could do some exact measurements.

Hi Ataraxis Won't the difference in steps on the old stepper compared to the new stepper mean I wont be able to tell what the old one should be doing without putting the old Z stage back in?

Hi I have been asked to start this as a new topic and I you can help. UM original now with the official heated bed kit fitted, and i am now getting a bad stretch in the Z direction. If i print a 10mm cube to check dimensions the results are 9.58x 9.46y 12.7z mm. I updated the firmware through Cura 15.02.1 and used the corrected heated bed option and now have HBK 250000.hex installed. It printed great as a standard machine, so what i have i done since upgrading??

Interesting as I am now having the same problem , though it is caused by using the official heated bed upgrade. It was working fine before as a standard UM, so installed the bed upgraded the firmware to HBK 250000.hex and now I get double height prints. Similar thing if I move Z by 10mm in pronteface I get 20mm b]So is that stepper of software??

No takers!! Make me an offer if you are based in the UK,

Used UM2 just replaced the PTFE Isolator and it comes with another new spare, low friction filament holder and revised extruder fitted. I was running two ultimakers but only need one now. £1500.00

Just started laying out the design for 500x500mm with a standard frame height due to only having a 600x400mm laser cutter, the plan is to move the z stage to the side wall and mirror on the other side. Construction is 5mm acylic as i would like it in white and frosted. I would like to sneak out more Z height as per the ultimaker 2 so what do people think is the best way?

I now own a laser cutter big enough to cut out the panels to extend my ultimaker 1, so who are the best suppliers of parts that people would recommend, only requirement is they ship to the UK. I am after 400 x400 heated bed plus glass, longer belts and rods. Also as i will need to extend the wiring for the steppers and limit switches, where can i get the original connectors male and female.

Hi George Thanks for the info, ordered the Pololu A4988 black. Realised i have a limit switch not working, would the stepper fail it the motor reached the motion limit but did not turn off? Just trying to work out a possible reason for the failure.

My Ultimaker 1's latest trick is eating stepper drivers, just killed two this morning upon switching it on. How makes the best replacement and i want ones that are pre soldered. I would get the genuine ones but postage is mental to the UK and i need them asap. Cheers

Cheers Richardphat I have just stripped the whole board and compared it to a board i have with a dodgy switch and i am getting difference resistance readings, which make me realise as you say i 'fried the transitor' bugger. Thanks for the info.

Like GR5 I have both and love and hate for them for different reasons. Yes as standard the UM2 has a better print quality and as GR5 said the homing is better, but the extruder is not the best. UM1 cheaper and with upgrades added it is as good on print quality, you can also then print a wider range of materials easier (wood etc) and personally i prefer the info the ulticontroller gives me. Downside building it and you need to upgrade it to get the best out of it. Just buy both its easier : )

Just fitted a E3D hotend and something i have done now means the hotend fans run permanently. Wire the two hotend fans into into the connector that use to run the one 50mm fan and wired the small E3D fan into my DIY heated bed. Even with the heated bed turned off the fans still run, so not caused by that. The only think i have moved are the wires for the hotend as i had to unthread them through the old hotend mount. I did manage to short the two wires whilst checking the voltage to the hotend fans!! Any thoughts ?

Are nuts!! I have always wanted a delta and now i have ran out of excuses. What size is the print bed?

Did the tests and something was not right as I was not getting consistent readings. Unmounted the board, removed all the connections and rechecked the resistor and it did not feel right so i have re soldered it and now all is good. It becomes so much easier when you know what results you should get when testing. Thanks George without people like you i would have quit and bought an Makerbot!!

Hi Gr5 Yes it used to work fine and yes i did install the resistor. With a usb cable attached to the printer with the ultimaker powered off the heated bed shows a temperature of 80 degrees on the ulticontroller and in the ultimaker pronterface UI. When i power it on the temperature goes to zero on the ulticontroller and disappears out of the pronterface UI. Thanks for the info, i also suspect a short as i have had to replace the stepper drivers and the arduino as it also stopped responding. I will take some measurements and report back.

Also i have changed downloaded the Marlin zip and changed "Configuration.h and make sure the value is 1 for the #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1" re uploaded it via Arduino IDE and now i have a max temp error.

Sorry Got to add a dumb question as i am having the same problem with the heated bed, what is a SSR?

Weird i am having a similar problem with not being able to start the heated be as it only reads zero, but i had to replace my arduino as i lost the ability to connnect to it via usb. I thought it was just a bad arduino but now i think otherwise.

Hi Jamie Bought a Ultimaker 2 and finally got my Ultimaker 1 working again, so at the moment fully stocked. But if the Ultimaker 1 plays up again yes i would be.

So in the end the answer was.... One dead Arduino (unable to contact via usb to change firmware) and 4 poorly step drivers.