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Everything posted by swordriff

  1. I recommend turning the 3 screws under the build bed 1/3 turn to the right! Also check that no cable is broken which goes to the sensor in the head, actually in the door. These are in the back, and have been known to brak after opening the door many many times. I recommend turning the screws 1/3 to the right and use manual bed levelling
  2. Oh.. I think the PTFE insert is too small.. please contact me about this .
  3. Never print ABS through a previous "PLA-Nozzle", as the smallest residue of PLA which mixes poorly with ABS, will keep staying inside the nozzle and slowly turn to carbon or жевательная резинка. Two ways to avoid problems when changing from ABS / PLA and back: 1) Very clean cold pulls 2) change nozzle.
  4. This issue is a top priority support ticket! Here is more advice (thanks @gr5 for tripping me on this): There are practically no retractions in the beginning of the print. Then it works! When retractions begin, the same filament is gnawed back and forth in the feeder. The filament is then thicker, and will not move through the UM3 Bowden, because the UM3 bowden is not slippery, it is made of PFA, and not PTFE. Please try this: Remove filament and bowden tube. Push "old filament" which has been through the feeder several times manually through the bowden tube. Tell us if that was easy or hard. If it is hard, get a slippery bowden tube withthe right inner diameter. Waiting...
  5. Hi ! Thanks for posting the question! I recommend you first try printing it at normal size ( not scaled) and with a layer height of 0.1mm. When you scale it down, and also have a minimal layer height, (in your photo you state 0.05, which is maybe below what is technically possible= 1 "tick" in Z screw yields more than 0.05mm height?), then you are pushiing it really far! In your case you have a lot of retrations, and almost no printing inbetween them. ANY slack in bowden connection; bowden tube is allowed to move as little as 0.1mm, will mess up the continuity of the flowm especially when you are printing such small amounts of palstic. So when you print and have these retractions, the "same" filament with "a little added" is trying to make its way out of the nozzle. Bigger nozzle, less of this effect. My suggestions to make the 025 nozzle work are: Make sure the bowden tubes are ALL THE WAY down into theur endpoints, by taking out the horseshoe, push, wiggle, fiddle the bowden tube all the way down, then while holding it, lift the collett with a plunt knife and insert the horseshoe. Render the model at 100% size, not 50%. Layer 0.15 mm Turn retraction off. Your speed and temp settings look good! Now it should print perfectly. Then, if necessary, turn retraction off. Print again. Then, if necessary render the model 0.1- 0.06 LH. Mind you; the difference between 0.1mm and 0.06 is 40 microns!, and the difference in the print is that usually 0.1 looks better! this is due to the effect of slack in filament guiding "rail", and the approach of the physical limitations of the machine. You are now printing a "safe" configuration. If you add lower LH, smaller model and retractions, the "same filament" is trying to get out of the nozzle, almost nothing comes out, and the filament in the nozzle is staying a long time getting cooked and difficult to print. Lets hear it!
  6. When it stops extruding; dismount bowden, cut the filament, and try to move the filament manually "a mano" in the bowden. Visually inspecting it is not enough. Or your PT100 is shot. Your Cold pull looks perfect
  7. When you mix PLA and ABS in the same core you are asking for trouble (and gettingit!). A little PLA is always stuck somewhere down there after change of material. Then when you print ABS at higher temperatures, the little PLA is stuck "forever", and makes for build up of filament. Lots of cold pulls can help you
  8. Agree @tomnagel. When you print with PLA and change to Nylon ( higher temp) then residue of PLA in the Core is cooked to carbon or chewing gum.. It sits there and makes problems for you. Repeated cold pulls!
  9. cold pull zum reinigen. use original filament when printing. use standard profiles, not high temp, not high speed. never mix abs / pla in same core. what filament are you printing?
  10. Der UM3 hat nicht schlüpferige bowden. Die sind aus PFA. The UM3 has a few shortcomings which does not promote the ease of printing flexible material. Feeder is not optimal, but works. Bowden could be much more slippery inside, another material. There is an area between the head and into the Core which is not optimized for flexible material, it can try to escape, and inside the trumpet in top of the core it is not exactly slippery. This goes against you when printing such stuff.
  11. Blueberries are known to have a lot of anti-oxidants!
  12. The Bondtech just never stops. After installing it in my UM2 and UM2Go, I never sleep lightly or wake up to check if my print is ok, which must be ready in the morning. It always is! For me, and many I know, the bondtech has a "pay-back" of one single use. Everything after that is a bonus, " Free bondtech feeder".. End of Story.
  13. Tinkergnome firmware for ultimaker 2. Advanced -> Preferences -> Retraction settings)
  14. The filament can get stuck in upper part of core under this condition: If you "move material" back towards the nozzle just after finished print, or after manually heating core, then "half liquid" plastic will try to get stuck in areas not designed for this. Allthough the "waiting" and "moving" of the material in the UM3 can be a bit annoying, especially if you are in a hurry, I find it is very cleverly designed indeed- it avoids this kind of problems. Please can you confirm that you did some manual moving material before it got stuck in upper part? I have fiddled around a lot with the UM3 and find very few faults with it. The Original cores work excellent and I have had problems only when I have fiddled too much or been in a real hurry: Things to avoid: turn off printer to make faster reset moving material just after print is finished, especially towards nozzle (!!!) turn off printer any time when it is not in resting status.
  15. I think all @neotko advice is right, but not necessary to the 3D Solex upgrade; here is what I think is your problem: The bowden tube in combination with your filament. Please, take part of the filament which you have already run through the feeder, ie tied to print with and manually run it through the bowden. Like this: 1) turn off printer 2) Lift the "filament release" on feeder (this is quite hard!) 3) Pull out all filament while holding this release knob 4) remove bowden clips back and front 5) push insert holding bowden down, and while holding down pull out bowden 6) manually push filament which you already tried to print (very important, to diagnose what neotko says about filament grinding and more...)- through the tube. Should go light. 7) report back, and we will help you! To put back bowden, insert and make sure it is in very bottom, there may be some "edges" to overcome. , while holding bowden down, lift insert with a blunt knife and insert clip. Insert filament while lifting knob on feeder and feed it manually all the way to the front.
  16. Oh yes! The UM2Go will be a classic indeed! I doubt there is any such sturdy printer available, increadibly well designed and built! Its the best bet for fine, fine detailed work!
  17. The little nozzles 0.15 and smaller need a geared feeder, thats why they do not work with an Um2. The Um2 + has a geared feeder and works! The direct drive feeder of the Um2 has too crude steps, so dont expect a nice print with the feeder "makes a move every minute".. remember the small nozzles use extrenely little filament! A Bondtech or other geared feeder has a higher resolution, and will work much more evenly!
  18. Thanks @tomnagel and @flowalistik! I will carefully watch brim and agree, does not make sense to change material if you, lets say, have 2 "Main colors".
  19. Hey! A similar issue was with the Um2 sometimes, after priming the extruder, it would fully, and confidently dip its nozzle into the pool of extruded primer material, and carry it to the print. I now am the lucky owner of an UM3, and the print quality is outstanding, except when changing extruder, it decides to dip its hot end into the priming pool, hitting it with the low roof, and sometimes carry it and deposit it sometimes in the middel if the print. How can this be necessary? Here is suggested formula: After priming ext 2 at extruder change, if (current_buildheight + 5mm) is equal to or smaller than max_buildheight, THEN move Z down 5 mm ( to avoid the pool) and continue printing after moving the Z back up. (Btw; it is not necessary to heat up, or cool down or anything else in this process).
  20. According to Korneel, Cura 2.x is built around extuder 1 is the primary. Today I finished a 2-color print. Then I wanted to print another (single color) model, with the current color in extruder 2. SMART: I set extruder 2 as primary and set about printing. Not smart enough! After some base layers with extruder 2 (My chosen color pla, using AA core, of course), the machine decided to print a brim! Since brim is set to extruder 1, the head moved to a corner, produced a poo from extruder 1, and the decided to carry it and dumping it on my flat print, then making a perfect brim on a lower leverl. Hmm... I guess smarter to leave extruder 1 as the primary.
  21. Hoi Dirk! Zu wenig Druck vom spacer auf den PTFE ( muss man mit Hot End Isolator einstellen), und dazu vielleicht viel druck vom Feeder. Somit kann Plastik zwischen Block u PTFE rausgepressed werden!. Schreib an 3d Solex, dann bekommsch Hilfe.
  22. its not the hot end as such which is worn out quickly by abrasive filaments, it is more the tip of the nozzle. Like @ultiarjan says, the core is good!
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