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swordriff

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Everything posted by swordriff

  1. We are glad to help! Now.. your placement of the spool seems risky. OOPS:If you put your spool just on the floor, you risk: - With every unwinding of from the spool 1 warp is introduced. This may cause serious trouble for you in the machine, breaking of filament (esp if temp <20) etc.. Maybe you do not have space for the original holder that came with the UM2? (BTW, this holder is also not ideal, the speel should be allowed to reside closer to the back wall..) The original holder will keep the spool more than less in the right place for the unwinding of the filament. As other moderators have pointed out, it can be useful to "unwind" a bit.. but keep it inside the spool.. Your current arrangement asks for trouble... entanglements..
  2. Lets check feed: The filament visible through the feeding tube should have a regular thin pattern of "teeth", from the feeding mechanism. We are assuming that the spool can unwind unrestricted. Start by printing a much smaller and simpler object, like for instance The Waterpump : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16145/#files In Cura, put speed at 50. Quality at 0.2 (this will still print very beautifully when your settings are right) Coose Expert, Open Expert settings, Set retraction minimum And miminal to "0", check ENABLE ON. Choose Expert, Switch to Full settings, Layer height 0.2, shell 0.8, Enable ON, Support type NONE, Platform adhesion Brim. In UM2 print at speed 70-80-90-100. Temperature 180-190-200-210-220 This will give you 20 prints. As they come out, mark them with proof marker which settings they "have", or you will mess up later. Keep Material at 100 and Build bed at 60, for all these tests. This is going to take 3 hours all together, and you will get the feel of it after you are finished. Then print your complicated thing with the best settings. You will then get some stringing. Work on the stringing by reducing temperature 5C at the time. You can also change speed.. so.. another matrix of tests needed. You will then be expert. You can not avoid "micro-strings", smaller than size of human hair, but these are easy to remove. Remember, most models shown on the web have a fair amount of post-processing, using a little sharp knife, etc. Expect to spend 1-10 minutes on your complicated model. By adjustments alone, you will be able to print the waterpump 99% perfectly, with no post-processing! When you post screen shots, we must have much higher resolution, its impossible to read... Nobody here can give you exact settings, we dont know your settings, temperature, material, even table...a too wobbly base for your printer will produce oval holes.. etc.. Lets hear how it goes..
  3. I looked at the IMG7567 again! I agree with gr5.. This is underextrusion... could be sticky spool, thin filament.. etc Low temperatures will also not help you. Suggest, raising room temp to 20+, increasing nozzle temp to 230+, make layers stick first. Then, focus on strings (which will form at 230) etc... by lowering temp and speed. .
  4. Thomas! For you it is probably combination of build speed and temperature.. Next likely is sticky filament, hard for printer to un-spool... Try unwinding a bit... Can you post settings in CURA, as well as settings in UM2.? If you print in a cold(er) room.. then the higher levels dont "inherit" the temperature from the build bed, (assuming you have a heated bed).. and as the higher levels thus are colder because of this, the new layers don't attach well. You can compensate somewhat for this by increasing extr temp and lowering speed. With a heated bed to 60, CURA speed setting of 70mm/s, and UM2 speed setting of 60% (combined speed is then 60 percent out of 70mm/s = 42mm/s, AND higher extrusion temp, try 235, and fan off, Then we should make it stick. These settings will incur stringing, which you work at on the next stage by lowering speed and temperature.. Temp can go down to 220-215-210-200, speed down to 50% (in UM2). Good luck!
  5. yes! No oil on Z axis, only the supplied grease, sparingly! Ballistol is cheap. The "preserving" effect has, as rightly mentioned, not much of an impact for our current use, it only helps documenting that it is totally non-aggressive, which does have an impact.. Correct like JonnyBishof writes, pouring oil is better, but Ballistol is more commonly available on a spray, which is why it is important to SPRAY ONTO KLEENEX first, then wipe rods. Do not apply to the Z axis, the rear vertical screw, since sewing machine oil, Ballistol or whatever will be to "dry" and have a too thin film for the Z axis screw. And yes, I mean no, I do not get any commission from the 100 year old Ballistol company, and one small can will last you until you have an Ultimaker X.
  6. Connect CURA-pc with UM2 using USB cable. Turn UM2 on- In CURA: Choose MACHINE, INSTALL Default firmware. That updates UM2.
  7. Oh dear... Is it so that when I set the speed in Cura, ie 60, then when UM2 is set at 90, the actual speed will be 54? No wonder it was tough to find the right settings! ..
  8. The axis in your printer need lubricating, the recommended substance is “sewing machine oil”. Now, where to get that, and is it really the right oil? The idea is that the oil must not attack any of the materials in your printer, and STAY FLUID for a long time. These requirements are met by Ballistol. It is a multipurpose lubricant which in Norway is sold in weapons shops. The gun geeks use it to preserve the action. One guy told me he had oiled his gun and put it away in his safe for 15 years. After taking it out, it was like yesterday’s oil! It is easy to find in Europe, you can also look it up on the web. I use it personally when restoring sliders in old synthesizers, which have been treated with absolutely the wrong material in Japan and USA long ago. The wrong oil has turned into vax.. or cheese. USE VERY SPARINGLY: Do not spray into your printer. You do not want it on the belts (they wont break, on the contrary, but they will get slippery, and you really do not want that), you only want oil on the axis. Spray 1 sec into a piece of kleenex or similar. Wipe onto all the axis. After next prints there will be forming a little ring of dust and excess oil at the axis endpoints, wipe it with paper or cotton. You will have perfectly lubricated axis! Repeat after 3-6 months. Take care..
  9. Hassan! Moderator is right! In Cura, in advanced settings, like he says is right! In UM2, Maintenance, Advanced, Retraction, set it to 4.5mm or 5mm. Next thing, print at 75 speed. Update: General rule, slower print=better result. BUT: if you print very slowly, combined with high temperature and high Material flow, then it will ooze.. string,,, Thanks, gr5. IMPORTANT: You can set the speed right after the print starts. So, after the print starts, press advanced settings and set speed 75, temp 195, bed 210, M(aterial)100. There is a speed setting in Cura as well wich is "basis speed". The speed set in UM2 is a multiplier. There are 2 more possibilites for your stringing: 1. The filament is broken inside the Bowden tube (happened to me, can easily happen), which will make it NOT RETRACT until you have consumed the broken part in the "front", close to the nozzle. Retraction is the activity of spooling the filament 5mm backwards when moving the head to a new location (happens very quickly, and frequently).. so the filament will not ooze during a short move. IF the filament has a break inside the tube it will not be retracted, only the "unbroken part" connected to the spool will move back. Second cause: Too slow printing speed, too much material feed (but needs to be way off) if You print at 25 and M is at 100, it could be a problem. Suggest print at 75 speed, Temp 195, heating bed 65. check if filament is broken inside tube by looking very carefully. The break could already be inside the extruder assembly and so not visible to you, but will eventually "print out", and then the one-piece filament will retract correctly and you will have less or no stringing.. Lets hear how it went? Thanks
  10. How to expertly level the BED. This will influence the quality and the useful print area! If your prints are already fantastic, you do not need to study this article. I received my UM2 a week ago, and it was expertly assembled, thanks, After having worked with it A LOT, I'd like to share some findings! Here are a couple nice tips for the bed adjustment! Select Build-Plate and follow instructions, but first : 1. Choose Maintenance, Advanced, Heatup Buildplate ( you want to make the adjustment with the plate at 65C, or at 0 = room temp if that is how you make your prints. For PLA and for me 65 works well.) 2. Adjust rear point to ca 1 mm using encoder wheel (ca 1 mm is enough, REALLY!, I tried a gauge at first, but it is risky for the nozzle and has no consequence, honestly!!) 3. Adjust left and right front using thumb screws (ca 1mm , Again it is circa…) 4. Adjust (using encoder) rear point with piece of flat paper between nozzle and bed, until paper "bites" SLIGHTLY (using 80g, ie normal laser paper). If the encoder only allows a heavy bite, and in next step is very loose, then adjust with screw under rear plate. When you are happy, don’t touch that screw again unless doing everything from scratch, since it would upset the balance of the whole bed. Observe, it is easy to make the bite to hard, and the distance is too small and will print extremely thinly in the beginning. 5. Adjust left and right front to “same amount of bite as in the rear”. Now you have an almost perfectly levelled bed. Depending on your skill and paper thickness, distance may be a fraction too small or too big, - or it is PERFECT and you are DONE! My early layers are too thin, or distance obviously too big.. : In that case, do another build-plate again, but this time ONLY ADJUST THE REAR, AND ONLY USING ENCODER. Everything else upsets the adjustment balance you just did, and you must start from the very beginning. The firmware could have had a “fine adjustment” button, so we would not have to click our way through it, but it is a quick procedure.. How: Adjust ca 1mm in rear, DON’T touch front left or right (just click the encoder to continue to next step), use encoder ONLY to adjust more or less bite with paper in the rear ONLY. Suggest 1 click only. This adjustment will affect the whole bed equally! I have had great fun exploring my U2 by printing this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16145 The bigger items take time, and can be studied during print while making adjustments. If you print one of the big items, you can see especially in the beginning if your height is right! My properly adjusted U2 prints fantastic quality at 0.2mm layer height ( in Cura ). The Waterpump is small, and i printed it many times to adjust the Speed, Temp and Material flow. Bed glue/no glue and removal of items will also be covered! Results in next article! I did swear a couple of times ! Take care
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