swordriff

The nozzle is exactly as long as an UM2+/E3D nozzle, the trick is done on the "topside" of the nozzle! It is fully drop-in compatible and bed re-alignment is not needed, even when changing to Block V3.

0.4mm, LH 0.15 , 320mm/sec. And corners are NOT beautiful..

@neotko I really don't understand etc.. This is easier to understand once you see the nozzles close up.. hihi.. Another way of thinking: how good would the tip heat, if the nozzle was only held with a pincher around the entry hole? While a lot of plastic tries to cool it dow, with fans blowing? So.. more heat to the tip is better than less heat.. I think. The block can be as stable in temperature as it wants, the nozzle still needs as much as possible energy.

the Matchless will not live so much longer with carbonfill, since it is only an outer coating which is hard. inside it is a brass-alloy! once the carbon fiber edges eat their way through the coating the brass will "melt like butter". i would happily some nozzles to try the life printing carbon.. anyone?

SQUARE CIRCLES: when you print much faster than 300mm/sec, the cpu cannot cope- reading all the gcodes and positioning the x/y fast enough- so it starts skipping steps and seems to miss gcode lines.. of course, it is very rare that you have an object which can be usefully printed at such speeds, but they do exist, I guess. reaching this limit with a stock um2+ is difficult since it cannot melt the plastic fast enough.

It's a multilayer coating with chrome on the outside! - yes inside it is a brass alloy. steel would be impossible to use, since its thermal properties are horrible.

Hey! In this business, we are all beginners, wait and see! If you try a cheap teflon and print at 260, you see what happens! There is a large number of additives and procedures which make a difference in the raw material. The cheap ones start disintegrating at ca 200C, slowly at first, releasing the famous "bird killing fumes". This weakens the teflon`s physical integrity and it will start to sag until it suddenly grips the filament, not unlike a heroinist who took too much. While it is sagging into the filament and we do not know exactly that Thats what is happening, we start blaming Ultimaker, temp sensor, heater, filament, nozzle and block. Could be the bowden tube too, often overlooked... So better to buy a good one. The expensive ones are start evaporating at 260C.

Please print with a Chinese PTFE at 260C, then try TFM (ULtimaker) or TFT (3dSolex) and you will se the difference. A car is just a box with an engine and 4 wheels. How can they justify the difference in price between a KIA and a BMW. Materials, tolerance, measurements. Example, the better Teflon piece has less chance of filament crash when entering the new filament. It can also take 255C indefinately. This is worth something, if not it would be like a writer publishes a book, and then sell it for just printing price, 1-3 dollars / book. There is a constant development of new products ( eh... books too!) .. this cost money too! The cheapest way to use teflon is to buy from Aliexpress and then wait for prints to fail, but dont buy the 1,75 one as the filament will not enter.

OMG the tube which works here cannot be made in Teflon or any other slippery and strong material in existence.. The OD would need to be 7-8mm and at the same time ID 2mm, else it is really tough to make the flament enter without being a jongleur and having 3 hands ( yes you could probably partially disassemble the head each time you change filament and make it work)

The convertion of Um2 to "native" 1.75mm filament faces several obstacles. That being said, you can actually print 1.75 filament on the existing setup, only it will not work with flexible material, and retraction settings can be increased by 1-2mm, to offset the sideways move in the oversized Bowden tube ID (inner diameter). You may need possibly to adjust the feeder, but this is not strictly necessary. Another obstacle is that there is such a big gap between the thinner filament and the block which has a ca 3.2mm lead in for the filament, goes for teflon as well. This results in more hydraulic back pressure, which can easily be demonstrated by performing an Atomic "press",; the first of two main actions in Atomic Method namely pressing down filament by hand into hot hotend. You will see fluid filament move upwards inside the teflon. This leads to conclusion; All though 1.75 printing is certainly (!) possible in a standard setup, there are great benefits in making the following changes to the configurtion, in order of importance: 1) Teflon ID adapted to 1.75mm filament 2) Bowden tube adapted to 1.75mm filament 3) I2K insulator adapted to.... 4) Block ... 5) ... and least important to able to print 1.75 on UM2/Um2+: Nozzles adapted to 1.75. Now, since standard teflons have a Bowden receptacle fit for PTFE 6,3mm OD, and the quickest way to print 1,75 well is to supply a Teflon which will work with the stock Bowden (for ca 3mm). When the Chinese manufacture this item, they not always take tolerances so seriously, so wether the receptacle is 6.4 or 8mm is maybe not so important to them. If it is really too big, you risk hitting the "top roof" of the teflon when inserting the filament (especially 1.75) since it will follow the wall of the Bowden and not hit the entry hole of the Teflon. The fix to all this is a bowden with ID adapted to 1,75, A Teflon which receives the Bowden well and, a modification to the chamfer of the lead in to the Teflon to help guide the filament in... The nozzles are not imporant for 1.75, only Atomic Method according to eipc instructions at www.3dverkstan.se ( in english) will not work well. The Teflon from 3dSolex is 5-10 times more expensive (raw material) and is made in the USA compared to Teflon from China which is made in... China! There is a similar difference between Teflon as there is between cars. Some cars have top speed 165km/h, some (eh.. actually just a few) 420km/h. BOWDEN TUBES. It is very difficult to manufacture the Bowdens with an OD 6.x and ID 2.x, since the resulting stiffness hinders the bending of the tube. I am currently looking into having two tubes made, one with ID 4.1, and another with OD 4.0 and then put one inside the other. It may solve the problem.. The Teflon (TFT) from 3dSolex, when purchased together with an I2k carries a 6month guarantee, print as much as you want up until 295C. The Guarantee does not cover physical "schlitashe" inside the TFT which will happen with CF, Bronzefill etc.

Hey, Gentlemen! What nozzle size do you frequently use when you have these Marathon-ish prints?

Which cartridge cant you move? Did you use a powertool?

Salu, Monsiuer Pascal! Good question! There are many types of PLA, I like viewing it as base material, and then there are additives like, colour, metals, fibers, chemicals to modify its features. If you print PLA in white or black etc ONLY, then it will last a very long time, even thousands of hours, just like a knife used for butter only. If you print bronzefill ( Fantastic material) or other filaments with strong chemicals or hard fibers, the nozzle will wear down quickly! There is one user I know of who will shorten a brass nozzle by several millimeters in hours only.. They need to use steel or other solutions.. (The main disadvantage using steel is that it conducts heat poorly, so prints much slower, also PLA sticks to it more). Worn out; Look at it, is the rim around the hole larger than it was new? In a 0.4mm nozzle typical total tip diameter is about 1mm, in a 0.8 nozzle various designs have from 1.4 to 2mm. Rule of thumb; wider rim ( the thickness of the walls around the exit hole ) yields better flat surfaces, narrower rim better walls.. To diagnose clogged.. well the feeder starts skipping... Perform Atomic Method or Cold Pulls according to epic instructions found at www.3dverkstan.se Atomc Pulls gives you an inside view of the nozzle and proves that it is clean! Good luck! Thum

Ok we have a winner!! . . . . . We need a design as an alternative to the 7mm hex Socket which comes with the Olsson Block. There have been several clever entries, but a decision has to be made. Favoured are ideas where the use of the wrench induces as little radial forces as necessary, in this respect the existing 7mm socket it the best but only when combined with Anders Olsson Torque Wrench. All things considered and extremely biased I vote for split between @iroberti and @meduza. Thanks to @iroberti for pointing out (and solving) the problem of the hot nozzle falling down through the key. I think stamping the key in a similar design as and then making a little dent or two in the hex on 2 sides will prevent the nozzle from falling through. Sorry you other guys, close but no cigar ( I hope I am right ). @Ultiarjan, @izzy each one small reward. PM me. @neotko no magic this time... ( at last! ). Ultiarjan, I think we will need an interface to the AOTW, or a modified inner part. But dont start drooling over this yet, since final decision by client is not made... Maybe we stay with the existing 7mm socket. Thank you!

@neotko Its coming up in TFT material shortly!

The threading for the steel coupler is M6x0.75mm so a not standard threading. Abrasive materials by themselves cannot weaken the steel coupler, but any leak of a chemically aggressive material will "help" making problems between the steela nd the brass. The steel coupler has to be made thin and flimsy so it will not transfer heat from the block to the teflon, that is part of its job, the other is to regulate the height of the print head.

@adrien_12 have you been printing glowfill? I am suspecting a chemically aggressive filament...

@meduza what about your design, and I try to make a dent in the hex on one edge, so the nozzle will not fall through?

You guys are just fantastic! The reason for replacing the socket is that a big client needs the nozzle change to work without acquiring an extra tool, like ATW or other wrench.. I think the suggested plastic "holders" are amazing, and I am sure that in combination with help from @iroberti, @gr5, @ultiarjan we can find something that works. Nobody else read this ( As we know, it does work without any tool, the socket I mean, but needs to turned a little "hardish", like @gr5 -s female example). I hope the new design which I am working on can work, and the plan is indeed that it will hold the nozzle by itself. It will work Much better with plastic holder. Small trouble how to design the holder so that a press on the plastic releases the nozzle.. It is made with EDM wire cutting. My problem is calculating the material thickness and type to get the right bending/holding action. I need you help on this!

Didier please help @adrien_12 Anything to help Ultimaker / an UM customer. Thanks!

COMPETITION IS STILL ON! I need a plastic "holder" for this part ( key itself will be made in STEEL). Since this little Wrench, Key, will be fiddly but possible to use on its own, I still need a holder/interface design which is printable. Tip: Stay away from the middle, it is hot.

Looks like a sex toy to me.. ok, blame me.. I said it first! Looks like a good one at that too..

OMG. Is this the original steel coupler? Adrien.. you get a free replacement part. please contact me..

Ok @iroberti and @ultiarjan.. Please analyze this one for me, the plan is that the hex is 6.95-isch tol 0.05 diagonally and then the user can squeeze it to make it "hold" the nozzle when it falls back. So it will automatically hold the nozzle, and a slight squeeze will let it fall out...

-- How about hitting the hex with a tool on one side, so a small lip is formed and "thickens" one side enough to prevent the nozzle from falling through...