swordriff

SMART! Im looking into it now... How is it that these swedes are so =@$£5 smart....

(click on photo to see it properly!) 1st prize is Olsson Block or 10 nozzles for UM2. Winner decision is subjective and final. Design is free for anyone to use. Design may be named after designer if you want. PLEASE POST DESIGNS "AS-You-Go".! Hello everyone!! This is the STP file for a Stainless Steel 7mm hex key which will shortly be available to help changing nozzles on the UM2 (with nozzle upgrade). Key 7 File (right click on link to the left and select download or "save link as..." or similar). Here is the STL file in case you want to look at it in Cura or another tool. CHALLENGE: It works by itself, replacing the standard 7mm socket in use now, but the following 2 printable add-ons are cool: 1) Simple, nice holder which attaches to it, to make it even nicer to use. Tip! -Should attach far away from the centre to avoid softening by heat. 2) Simple printable adapter so it will attach to the Anders Olsson Torque Wrench found here: Anders Olsson Torque Wrench Winner decided Nov. 1st before midnight!

Any time, Bob! The Olsson Block is here to make life a little easier!

Hi! If its not loose nozzle and chinese teflon, then it must be an internal manufacturing glitch in the block. The seat where the nozzle entry connects with the block is milled out in a CNC machine with a very small delicate tool. The tool is being replaced at certain intervals, and maybe has broken inside in between service intervals. I can imagine that it could create an internal hole "not present in the drawing"... 3dSolex has shipped your order for parts and added one block at no charge for you. Did the steel coupler and I2K flood as well? Thanks and sorry for the trouble!

@Dim3nsioneer and @ultiarjan; you two guys are just a miracle in process.

Hey! I tried the Chinese couplers. Some work, and some not, the problem is 3-fold: 1: Teflon is not Teflon. There is a huge variety of temperature and compression resistance. That being said, the "2-dollar" ones work If: 2: they are the right size. I bought from China and supplied one to @ultiarjan which created an instant leak. This is because if the size is not just right, they leak between block and teflon, and 3dly: 3; there is one more feature I cannot give away, but it is an engineerinf issue. I pay 2 dollar/pcs for the material alone, which is made in Germany, and has different characteristics! I have had much luck and fun with Chinese Teflon, Chinese can make very high quality, even your iPhone and your 8K TV is made in China, no-one else can/does do that! So, except in some cases you get what you pay for. The low priced (intentionally avoidind the word cheap, because many or not "cheap") Teflon will last a long time. But unless a truly high tech material is uses, it will crash sooner or much sooner, ´simple as that. 3dSolex has had 3 complaints, and immediately refunded and shipped a replacement Teflon. They are expensive at 10E each, but will last unless something wrong in manufacture or temperature fault in application machine. Tubing 6x4 is an excellent idea, but unfortunately in some applications the clips cannot hold the tube. One fix is to print a thicker horseshoe, you find in Youmagine, Bowden Clips Oh, and 1.75 works better with a larger ID than 2mm. @gr5 There are 3d printers in Alixpress at 900 usd. But you cannot rely on finishing a long print etc.. I am the greatest fan of UM2 alive, because even with its "irks" and "twirks" it is the machine which most quickly just works! In afterthought many can see what could be better but bringing it out as good as it actually is,; impressive. Id like to see the person who could have done that.!

I have an idea! Heater cables to bed not attached properly, or failing temp sensor in head, "showing" ie 220C when its actually 170 or 190

Yes @gr5: Not much movement upwards inside block/teflon, som "half-melted" slush gets into the teflon at retract. Main thing is, pressure is off to prevent dripping and drooling... BTW I got an extremely interesting looking writeup from @ultiarjan just now.. he can spill it himself.. belongs somewhere else in here.

Looks like 0.40 and or 0.50 at the moment... puh.. so much work and its so difficult!

This is customer support rep for 3d printer sales company in Nederland?

It will just work! Make sure it is fully inserted, and tighten with provided (intentionally) flimsy screwdriver with the force of a female, so as not to overtighten. Overtightening can disfigure the cartridge making it impossible to remove.

35watt heater heats up in half time.

Hey guys! We cannot have the heat on in a temperarily unused hot end. It will turn the plastic inside it into what the russians call Жевачка. @Dim3nsioneer you must ask @gr5 to write a firmwarefix and consult @iroberti on the way. @ultiarjan can you oversee this? It is all beyond my understanding. Anyone else useful to bring in? @anders-olsson how about 2 Olsson blocks in every machine.. haha. This is meant to be funny! This is turning into quite a chat! Sorry cannot answer all PMs and comment so much, I am increadibly busy these days in a galaxy far far away and trying to make everyone agree to EXACTLY WHAT I WANT is something I have to give up, and see my own limitations.... <3

How about the doubling up of heater and sensor?

Isnt it a bit fiddly with the firmware to change hot end wrgt the heater and the sensor? Question guys; Is there a simple way in software ti accomodate dual but only 1 at the time, removing the cold nozzle?

Are you going to inhale?

Hey! Welcome! Maybe fill in your profile with Location and printer? I tried fans from China! They where the wrong impedance and killed one MOSFET on the PCB. Dont do it. Ask @gr5 about parts, he will recommend spareparts from USA. Should be quick!

Yes @anders-olsson: He brought it up first! I remember writing him in the old forum but there is no reply! Ok. IPM: the IPM works with ABS only. So only 1 part, not 2 parts, (-even) less chance for leak. The whole part could be machined in "NASA-plastic" but material cost only for the coupler is ca 40 Euros. And also we do not know how it does not attract plastics of different makes. As it is now machined into a tiny chip, it does no "do much" except save you a lot of rebuilds. If you NEVER print higher than 225, you do not need it. I recommend for @BrayChristopher the I2K & Teflon combo. There is an even tougher Teflon on its way, with an "Upgrade Price" for existing customers of either Teflon or Teflon&I2K.

how about this one or similar... http://www.ebay.com/bhp/teflon-block

There is a reseller in Switzerland shortly who stocks everything, or simply www.3dSolex.com if you cannot wait.

Teflon could have too small inner diameter, providing a too large footprint for the upwards hydraulic pressure, or spring is somehow too soft. Here is a dirty fix: Find spacers with an 8mm inner hole, put on top of teflon underspring to increase pressure. But you have to clean up everything first...

@martijn - you need to see this. So, this is hydraulic pressure, a backlash of liquid plastic from the block inside an upwards. It is like @iroberti writes, very important that the the things connect: Steelcoupler all the way down (lifting the block inisde) to increase spring pressure, totally clean hote-end-top-end so no leaks between teflon and block. Could also be due to too large block entry hole (manufacturing mistake), or (really!) too thin filament. There is a fix for this: The "Korneel Spacer". Find it in the forum. Essentially, it replaces the spring and makes all hydraulics in your case static = nix more problems.

That is big piece! Please, can it not be made of something else?

Hi! Thanks for asking this good question! I think the Ultimaker Teflon coupler on its own is the best one out there. I have tried various Teflons from China, and the plastic is so variable in quality, and size! Here is the story: Anders Olsson in Sweden needs to print at 265C + continuously! Using the standard Teflon, it is destroyed in a short time. He then devised a small chip, from "Vespel", which has the following 3 important properties: 1) Conducts thermo-power poorly 2) Can take the heat 3) PLA does not stick to it Since then we have changed the material to a Tecasint-type, increasing the toughness to a service temperature of 300C +- Anders is (afaik) still using the "good old Vespel" he first manufactured, and stopped logging after 500 hours at the said temperatures. The Teflon still looks allmost like new. There is one degrading factor here; If you have a lot of retractions, then the hot plastic is dragged into the teflon on the inside, heating it there, of course. This nullifies the effect of the I2K chip somewhat. Anders also placed a pt100 close to the bottom of the Teflon (inside the teflon), and never measured more than 110C, really close to the hot end top end. Teflon starts to decompose at ca 200C, slowly at first. This effect accelerates greatly at 225-230. The chip saves it from being continuously heated from below. If this chip saves even 1 important print, we think it is worth every penny! Mind you, the Teflon can behave normallish at room temperature, and then start bending its knees after warming up!

1.75mm filament Ultimaker 2 Olsson block Covered: Block/Nozzle/Teflon (Even I2k !!!) Possibly covered : Bowden tube in existing mounts (6.x outer dia). Not verified: Which feeder, does original work with 1,75, other feeders) @memory556 contact @gr5 @jprochnow please update your profile with machine and location etc, then PM me.