cleven

Wow, what the heck did you do?! lol, Very strange wear.... How hot are you running? Remember it starts to break down around 250 so it isnt the greatest around there.

I thought about it, but each printer is different and two points at least would need to be determined. Example: do the flow test at 185, 210, and 230. Then generate a linear equation. Then you could set the temperature which would set your max flow. Now each user would have to do this and input their data to generate the equation. So to avoid this I just added a SF to the equation if needed, and or they know the max value they can achieve at said temperature and simply change the value manually

I made this just to see if it would work, and I was rather surprised

Made one out of peek, works ok, but the friction is higher than PTFE. See here; http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7024-teflon-spacer-replacement/ I also made one out of Torlon. They all were relatively the same for me.

I was speaking to someone about this, it may have been in the other posting or not, but we discussed having the material aluminium/metal. We discussed the heat transfer differences. This heat transfer rate would cause the nozzle volume to increase as you increase the heat higher into the filament. Also ptfe has a very low friction coef, and is somewhat flexible and can force material through if an issue arrises. I think any material which resists heat and heat transfer would be great

After doing the 10mm3 flow test, I have been verifying the flow relative to speed on some of my prints. To ensure that I am not pushing the limits of my machine. This allows me to effectively print somethings quick as possible if need be. Set the nozzle Size, then Set the limit acquired by your machine in the right corner in the max flow box. It will state the speed limits. I have set a safety factor option. A number of 1.3 works rather or just leave as 1.0. From here you can set the speeds and layer height you would like to see the total flow. Click here for the calc sheet. Note I made this nicer and simplified my other sheet I used. Hopefully there isn't a mistake. This is for reference only.

Another thing that was useful is I made crossovers for a water cooling unit. would be good for reducers splitters etc for a fish tank.

Same here gru. I make a lot of stuff for specific uses at work. So not something easily shared.

I make a lot of jigs to hold complex parts for the mill and lathe at work. Works well Made a small pocket fishing rod for my hikes in the fjords. Also made some clip on camp stove legs for stabilization. Belt buckle replacement Fixed my car keys by making a new housing for them. https://www.youmagine.com/users/cleven

Set up a tripod. Go a set distance away and play a recorded sound at a set volume. Repeat with and without.

It should have a benefit but not one you would notice in a closed room. Try outside where sound cannot reflect off the walls

The threaded area would be pressed or brazed in.

That looks like a possible winner

something like this quick model? Depending on the material you may want to have some copper gaskets rings to allow for a good connection between materials.

It should still give improved function if you just make a 1/4 sphere on top. It will be an improvement either way, Try some sound tests?

maybe a large half sphere/ellipse where the camera mounts in the focal point would be cumbersome but it would function

or make a capture cone for an external microphone that plugs into the jack, This would drastically improve the ability to capture the audio as you would be able to utilize the entire shape

Focal Point, very cool idea, with the focal point you may need to play with the mounting. maybe make the cone clip on as to have the ability to clip on larger "ears" for ability to capture audio at a much larger directional distance. This would be good for wildlife or spying purposes

update on quality with fan now running, noticeable improvement in surface finish. Prob due to the stable extrusion temperature

I have the same issue but I have it saying 5 been like that for like 3 or 4 months But I know if it says 6 I have a new msg.

It may make a difference but overall I've had high quality prints with my machine. I will let you know what difference if any I notice A bit upsetting with the machine being wired wrong. But it is hard to notice that the fan wasn't running. I was always focused on the other two fans and setting up the print. I started to take notice when I was experimenting with the ptfe part. Started wondering why that fan wasn't coming on. I took it off brought it down to the static circuit lab lol and tested it. Then I gave it a total solder upgrade

move to Europe?

zews, How about you upload your part, publish it and then we can see if it has any issues

turns out the fan was never going to work, they mixed up the wires from original assembly. A quick wire swap/solder started to work.

The modifications tested were on ID, OD, length, chamfers, rounds etc. Slightly modifying each individually to reduce friction and wear within the PTFE part. I have also tested other materials such as higher ptfe, peek and torlon. I have tested each of the verifications with the 10mm3/s flowrate and found that the last posting of sizes worked best to achieve this higher flow rate.