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dubtec

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Everything posted by dubtec

  1. Yes this is still for sale... .. yes i can ship to France.. will need to work out cost..unlesd you can?
  2. Hi, I run a small online printing firm, and use 4 UM1, printing in PLA. Fully upgraded, latest drive, V2 head, and all have heated beds. These have proved very reliable, and I enjoy the quick loading, print speed, and quality. I wish to "speed" things up, and improve quality. as I constantly have a Queue of jobs. ----------------------------------------------------- Is the UM2 worth the upgrade? Will it print faster? better? I normally print at 0.15mm layer height at 70mm/s , 40 perimeters, 200 travel How easy is it to load? Slicing with simplify 3D. I welcome your comments. Cheers Dave
  3. I want to enable an output pin, when print has finished.. I have tried to use the second heater o/p. but cant get this to work. M42 P4 S255; G4 P5; M42 P4 S0; Do i need to do something in the firmware for this to work? I heater 2 enabled by default? If i want to use another available pin, do I need to "define"it, if so where. ----------------------------- Basically once I can get an o/p to do something when finished,, I'm going to link it to an arduino with ethernet sheild... using this I can get an email, when print has finished using "pushing box"... I'm using 10 printers, and this would be an awesome feature. ---------------------------- I would really appreciate some help with this, David
  4. Still looking for a ultimaker original, built, kit or broken.. I won't pay the silly money some people want.
  5. i would try it, but all printers are running for a few hours
  6. Sounds a simple solution, is there any way to automatically pick up the filename and add it to 117? would this work ? found it on sli3r M117 [input_filename_base] ; display printed file on LCD
  7. Hi, I wonder if its possible to get the LCD to display the filename of whats printing instead of "printing". I fully understand how to change the text to anything, but not sure how to pick up the file name? any thoughts David
  8. He wont bargain, I think its too expensive... I haven't got time for a kit ;-) Just got a few big orders on and need a spare ultimaker to "lighten" the load...... will keep looking..
  9. Hi, I'm looking to grow my print farm, and looking for an original ultimaker for sale.. must have v2 head etc,, I have pm many people in this section and had very little response. If the price is right, immediate payment. Thanks David
  10. Would be good, even if we could just upload via Cura.. i.e. save to sd, or upload to printer.
  11. Off topic? I can't get14.03 test2 to slice. It hangs and becomes unresponsive, when it try to slice. Also if I try to rotate a part.I had the same issue with previous test builds to 14.03 I have to force close. Win.8.1 64bit
  12. would be very interested if anyone has done other comparisons. so it looks like 14.03 TEST2 is the one too beat?
  13. 4) really want support material to have fine interface layers on the top like KIsslicer . also finer to save material.
  14. Excellent work ! tried rc5,6,7 on a Win8 64 machine.. Hangs when trying to slice :sad:
  15. yes the peek is straight on the block, no gap, and the nozzle is female.. sorry cant take a "live" photo till tonight. what do I need to do to make this a V2 ? thanks
  16. Thanks for your reply.. the printer is > 1.5 years old. when I unscrew the nozzle it is female... the V2 has a male thread.... any thoughts?
  17. OK .. I appear to have the teflon part, is this where the Bowden tube goes into? also the wood has been upgraded. This is a photo of the printer hot end. http://ultimaker.ipbhost.com/uploads/gallery/album_394/gallery_32628_394_145729.jpg I purchased it from this forum.. welcome your comment/help
  18. I'm running a 2 Ultimaker original One has a V1 hot end the other V2 I want to upgrade the V1 hot end as I can definitely see the difference in performance, and I keep getting the odd blockage in the V1. I don't understand why I cant just change the block tube and nozzle? I find it frustrating that Ultimaker sell a very expensive kit with wood and everything else. PLEASE could someone explain why and what I need t0 change to get it to perform as the & be a V2 hot end? It looks like the wood is I have on the block is updated with the curve designs. Can I just fit https://www.ultimaker.com/products/nozzle & https://www.ultimaker.com/products/isolator-tube In theory this should improve my retraction, ooze? Thanks David (still learning)
  19. Fantastic response, you really go out of you way to be helpful :wink: Both machines have the latest firmware via http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ I assume this is okay and has the bug fix. I still get blobs which happens when the head lands on the next bit to print, or slightly before it. I'm using faberdashery white at 230 c and tried lowering it to 220 slight improvement. Ive pulled FW to 35 speed and set cura to 4.5mm at 35mm both machines are now using the v3 bolt, and one has the v2 hot end. I've looked at your z settings, and will see what this will do. but the main prob is the ooze between places. edit: gr fixed link above and restored lost sentence
  20. Thanks for the reply.. Printers 2x ultimaker original. I've been messing about with retraction speed. and most people talk of 30-40mm/s It sees that my Firmware has a limit of 25, which I can adjust with the ulticontroller. so if I set Cura to 40, and it is set to 25 in firmware, is 25 the max it can go? also would be REALLY keen to see what you guys have in your set up for xy speed, acceleration etc.. thanks in advance David
  21. If retraction is enabled, does Cura retract on EVERY layer change, or just when required. thanks
  22. As GR5 suggested in another post, I want to set my speed to 100mm/s and then use the % of the ulticontroller to adjust the speed, hence 50% = 50mm/s etc. Q. Does this effect the retract speed? and travel speed? --------------------------------------------------------- I understand that really I should try to keep infill and perimeters the same speed, to reduce lag, Q. but what would be a comfortable and safe difference outside 80% of infill speed? -------------------------------------------------------------- Im using Simplfy3d and all settings are mm/min, so I assume its just a simple matter of divide by 60 to get mm/sec? i.e 6000mm/min = 100mm/sec? thanks
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