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mtmvetultimaker

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Everything posted by mtmvetultimaker

  1. The original spool holder does not allow the filament to enter the feeder vertically. Keeping the filament on the floor is better. I believe GR5 just mentioned the same a few minutes ago in another post about UM GO.
  2. Sorry guys, where I live in Brazil , there are no extreme climate conditions. If the printer is built just for the Netherlands conditions, do not sell it overseas. Also, if you review the foruns, one can find several similar complaints from users from Europe. When I bought my printer, it was advertised as a “Plug and use” printer. No one told me that I would have to print new parts, not to use the original spool holder, etc, etc. Maintenance issues are totally different from changing the printer original project.
  3. Ultimaker will have to change a lot of things to get a good and reliable printer. If you decide to buy an Ultimaker 2, be aware that you will have to” baby sit” it all the time and develop several new skills such as changing printer parts ,checking filament dimensions, solving clogging problems, and other issues. You always will get support replies from the forums, but, do not count with a good official company support. My printer is not working for several weeks and I am still looking for a solution. Ultimaker´s support recommended changing the mainboard (600 euros CIF Brazil) but the advice from the forum mentioned a power supply problem. Maybe, GR5 recommendation of buying an original Ultimaker is a better option ( if you like to change/print new parts to the printer) or, consider another brand. Good luck!!
  4. I measured the power on the PCB using a voltimeter (as swordrill recomended) and got a 23-24 V. I will try to find someone here to check the diagram. thanks for the answer.
  5. When I read posts of people complaining that they just received their printer and after 2-3 days it is “ALREADY” with problems, I can just say that Ultimaker 2 is an “ALWAYS” problem!!! My new one is that I need to know if it is possible to fix a mainboard or any experience of people using mainboards from china. Three weeks ago, I replied an old post (https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/11492-ultimaker-2-main-board ) explaining that “ after solving all the usual problems (clogging, feeder, etc,etc) , my printer (ultimaker 2) was working fine, but suddenly it stopped working and did not turned on anymore. I opened a ticket in support and learned that, in this case, I must change the mainboard. My warranty is expired and the cost is 295 euros (plus shipping+ 90% customs taxes to send to Brazil). “ Sowordiff recommended me to check the power supply but, I did it and it is ok. During the last two weeks I have been sending pictures of my mainboard to Ultimaker’s technical support but, no solution up to this time. The mainboard has no sign of any short circuit or damage!! The printer has 16 months of use!!! Less than 300 hrs of real printing( and probably much more hours fixing everyday problems ). Anyway, I need to figure out a solution in order to make the printer work again without spending a lot of money. Thanks for any help. Mario
  6. Thanks for the answer. What you are saying is that I might buy a new mainboard as ultimaker´ support people recommended and NOT solve the problem? Any advice on how I can check if it is a power supply problem?
  7. I kindly ask if it is possible to fix a mainboard or to adapt a power button to the china product mentioned in the replies? Last week, after solving all the usual problems (clogging, feeder, etc,etc) , my printer (ultimaker 2) was working fine, but suddenly it stopped working and did not turned on anymore. I opened a ticket in support and learned that, in this case, I must change the mainboard. My warranty is expired and the cost is 295 euros (plus shipping+ 90% income taxes to send to Brazil). I really need to figure out an alternative option to ultimaker support. Thanks for any help. Mario Moura
  8. During the first three months I had my printer, I had this problem (underextrusion on different areas of the first layer) very often. I spent several hours leveling the bed, checking the Bowden tube position, cleaning the nozzle, changing filaments, temperatures, filament spoll in the floor, oil drops on the Bowden ,cura settings, etc, etc to finally figure out what was the cause. Try to disassemble the extruder motor and tighten the extruder gear (the one that makes the teethmarks on the filament). I don´t know why, but sometimes it gets slightly loose ( in spite of still be able to move the filament up and down). Sometimes, I could even see the gear going in and out on the axis of the feeder, as the nozzle/Bowden tube moves on the bed or filament retracts. After fixing it, all underextrusion or the first layer problem was gone. Regards, Mario
  9. Olá Alex, Parabéns pela compra! Eu não diria que a UM2 é a melhor impressora do mercado, mas é uma boa impressora a partir do momento que vc aprende a trabalhar com ela (o que inclui desmonta-la e remonta-la ). No inicio eu tive vários problemas e o fato de não ter representante local, dificultou bastante as coisas. Para você ter uma ideia, eu precisei daquele pequeno clip plástico que segura o tubo bowden e , quando a Ultimaker enviou, a DHL queria me cobrar quase R$100 de impostos. No final a Ultimaker assumiu esse custo também. Houve uma ocasião que eu queria mandar a maquina de volta para a Holanda, mas os custos e burocracia eram inviáveis. A Impressora é ótima, mas “melindrosa”.. rs Tudo tem que estar calibrado e limpo para que ela funcione a contento. Tenha em mente que para impressões de qualidade, vc vai ter que sacrificar o tempo (velocidade). Os fóruns da ultimaker fornecem muitas informações e dicas importantes, mas vc vai ter que identificar os problemas específicos da sua maquina. No meu caso, por exemplo: para os problemas de subextrusao (underextrusion) que é a principal reclamação nos fóruns, eu fiz de tudo que que eles recomendavam como limpeza do bico extrusor, tubo bowden (posição e limpeza), filamento no chão, máximo diâmetro de 2.85mm para o filamento, alinhamento/calibração , temperatura, etc, etc e só conseguia resolver parcialmente o problema. Até que eu descobri que, de tempos em tempos, aquela luva com as garras que fica no eixo do motor fica levemente solta e começa a causar o problema. Quando a subextrusao começa a aparecer, É só reposicionar e apertar o parafuso que, imediatamente, as impressões voltam a ter a qualidade esperada. Eu tenho utilizado PLA branco e transparente vendido pela Sethi3D e é ótimo. Ele tem 2.90mm, mas, após eu descobrir o problema do eixo, funciona muito bem. Mesmo quando utilizo os filamentos 3 mm da formafutura (importado e que me deram muitos problemas no inicio), as impressões são perfeitas. O ABS da Movtech também é muito bom, pelo menos o 1.75mm que eu utilizo em uma outra impressora Solidoodle 2 que eu tenho. Enfim, boa sorte com a impressora e conte comigo se eu puder ajudar. Abraço, Mario
  10. You have to check the filament specifications and, even better is to measure it. For instance: formafutura has filaments with 2.85mm specifications (such as ultimakers) but also has with 2.95 mm. After several trials I learned that the 2.95mm also works but, It is critical that you change the filament diameter settings at the printer in order to success.
  11. Ola Glauco, Meu pedido demorou 9 semanas para ser despachado pela Ultimaker. Nao sei qual a previsao atual. A partir do momento que o pedido foi enviado, vc pode utilizar esse mesmo numero (do pedido inicial na Ultimaker)no site da DHL da holanda. A partir dai vc consegue o numero de rastramento e acompanhar pelo site DHL.com.br. Quando a mercadoria passar na alfandega, ela vai ficar retida devido aos impostos. Entre em contato com a DHL e eles vao enviar o boleto e informar como fazer o pagamento. Eu fiz via cartao de credito porque ai eles entregam mais rapido. Entre a coleta do pacote na Holanda e a entrega na minha casa, nao demorou nem uma semana. Em termos de empacotamento, estava tudo ok, Eu tive outros problemas com a impressora, mas, nada relacionado ao transporte. Como a unica opçao de envio é a DHL, e o valor da mercadoria é superior a U$500, esteja preparado para pagar uns 80% de impostos (de importaçao, ICMS, taxas de manuseio, etc etc. Abraço e boa sorte.
  12. thanks for the answers. the new filament was not capable to push the lump all the way until the nozzle, and started damaging the filament at the feeder. One time, when I opened the nozzle side, I could see the hair and the filament coming out from the tube, but only after I retracted the filament all the way to the middle of the tube, I could pull the hair out. I totally agree with dgsharp that the bowden tube must be the right place.. Now, I always pay attention to the tube and will try different ideas to minimize the problem.
  13. I posted some pictures and a little movie at the gallery. this is the kind of problem I mentioned. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/album/550-problem/%C2%A0
  14. up to this time, no shrinkage at all. No more problems please! I have just started to change my disappointment
  15. Ola Oswaldo, benvindo ao forum. Conte comigo no que eu puder ajudar , apesar de eu estar iniciando nesse mundo 3d.. . grande abraço, Mario
  16. I don´t think temperatures are reaching 50 degrees, but This is considered the hottest summer in Sao paulo state since 1943. Temperatures are around 35-36 celcius (highs).Also, it is very dry. When I have the problem, usually, I release the nozzle, check if it not clogged and then, without putting the nozzle back in place, I just simulate changing material 1-2 times until the little pieces comes out and I realize the filament flow is normal. Following, I put the nozzle back in place and the extrusion is perfect.
  17. I am sure melted lfilament gets in the tube. sometimes, a little ball stays in the middle of the tube and a fine line goes all the way back to the feeder side of the tube . When you insert the new filament it does not reach the nozzle, or seems like I am using a 3mm filament (but I am just using 2.85mm measured filament). Next time, I will take some pictures .
  18. I only use PLA and I already changed the retraction settings. this is a Desperate tentative: I just want to try to keep the filament toe out of the nozzle when the printer is off and check what happens. when the tube is clean, I printed at 210, 220, 230 temp in combination with 35,45,55 mm/s and got very nice results. As soon as I change material on the next day and a little piece of filament is on the tube, the underextrusion and clicking starts again. Clean the tube, and the problem is gone.
  19. Ok Nuno, vamos mantendo contato. Escrever em Portugues é bem mais facil do que em ingles. Saudaçoes, Mario
  20. just tried the move retracting and it works. I want to try to retract more than the ulticode is doing. I don´t know why, but my printer clogs much more on the bowden tube. I always check the nozzle and it is clean, but any piece of melted filament in the bowden and the underextrusion starts .. at this point I have the feeder problems like other users complains. As soon as I clean the tube, all problems are gone.
  21. Ola pessoal, estou em Botucatu Sao paulo. Tenho uma Ultimaker 2 que tem me dado muuuito trabalho. Nao tenho experiencia na montagem de kits, mas acho que ja desmontei e montei a UM2 umas duas vezes ..rs abçs
  22. ok, thanks. probably, when I tried to retract some days ago, the nozzle was not hot enough or the tentative was after aborting a project and I did not turned off/on the printer. I will try again tonight.
  23. Ola amigo, moro no Brasil e falo portugues. Infelizmente ainda sou um iniciante em impressoras 3d e tive muitas dificuldades com a Ultimaker2. Vou tentar participar do seu topico. att, Mario
  24. Hi Daid, thanks for the answer. the USB issue is not a big problem. I am getting used the the card and setting things in the printer button. I also learned to don´t trust the estimated time. Yesterday, during the last printing minute, the led was showing 6 hours estimated time..Usually, the wrong estimation is only on the botton and top layers..Apparently, it calculates the height and infill of those layers and multiply to the number of layers..I don´t know.. I have a question: Is it possible to make the move material to retract instead of going forward? I am asking just because I would like to retract a little bit the filament from the nozzle when I turn off the printer. I have a feeling that, in special when changing filament, little pieces and very fine lines of filament stays in the bowden tube and , only after cleaning it, it is possible to get a good printing (with no underextrusion). thanks,
  25. Hi Marrit, Thanks for the answer. I followed some of Markus directions and I also received the clamps you sent me. Now the printer is working much better. , I am sure, one of the major problems of the printer is the bowden tube. When it stays in the right place, without any clogging, I did not have any underextruding. Later today, I will add some new comments about the experience. regards, mario P/S: I also received the Paypal refund. Thanks!
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