jasonatepaint

This has not been the case, at least in my builds. My 2 aluminum extrusion printers are WAY more quiet than my official UM2. I use 4 big rubber feet on the bottom and it keeps the machine quiet. As far as motor noises/vibration it is minimal and as I said, worse on the official UM2 frame. Vibration dampeners (rubber, cork) can be used as a thin interface between the 3D printed mount part and the frame, however I found that if tightened securely to the frame, I get no additional noise or vibrations.

Thanks! :-) It hasn't gotten much traction on YouMagine, but over on Thingiverse (oops, bad word around here? ) others are actively building their UM2 clones. The feedback and the derivative parts other users have created is helping to make it even better.

Hey racerbo, I think I chatted with your via thingiverse comments. Here was my comment: Oh YEAH! THAT was the other thing that I meant (but forgot) to fix before sending out the model/STLs... when I was ordering parts for the machine, I had a lot of long 8mm rods (which came from my disassembled Rostock delta printer). I cut those to size instead of buying pre-cut rods. So instead of buying the rod kits from China, I ended up buying 12mm 13" long (330.2 mm) rods from VXB.com, in the US. And then I altered the design. I have uploaded the top/bottom gantry brackets with the 8mm difference fixed. The parts are called Gantry_Z-Axis_Top_339mm.stl and Gantry_Z-Axis_Bottom_339mm.stl

That's what I'm currently running in both of my UM2's, so that would be my ultimate plan for the next printer too. I'll have to continue to follow your progress and see where ya are once I get the rest of the new printer assembled. Most parts are still on boats anyway.

Well, I used Misumi extrusions (link in the BOM), which are custom cut to your custom requirements, so all the extrusions will be fitted at their end points. Additionally, the 3D printed parts (frame brackets and gantry brackets) help square the corners. A bracket is fitted on the top/bottom and all 4 sides of the frame. I built the frame in 2 pieces and married them together. The instructions show this process. Since all the X/Y-axis extrusions fit together at the end of all Z-axis extrusions, the process of squaring things up is just a matter of using the brackets to hold the pieces together. The gantry brackets further enforce the frame is squared up for the gantry. After the frame is all bolted together, the rest of the assembly is practically the same as the UM2. It was insanely easy and it was dead-on accurate right out of the gate. The only thing I needed to spend time on was getting the steps right for the extruder. I was using a 1.8 degree steps and running 1.75mm filament, so I printed a calibration piece on the UM2 and dialed on the new printer until they looked the same. At this point, I can swap the SD card from machine to machine and get identical results.

Thanks! I wondered how the Ultimaker community would accept it.

Thanks! All the printed parts were printed from my UM2... I gotta imagine that had something to do with it. Well the BOM's price, not including screws, printed parts, or shipping of parts, is $896 USD. You figure about $1k USD and you'd be able to build yourself an UM2.

Hey Avi, Have you had any success with the bigger gear set you got from aliexpress? I'm in the process of building a 15x15 aluminum extrusion UM2, sort of like the 20x20 version I recently created, except for this one I'd like to do a direct drive extruder so I can print flexible/specialty filament. I know this design is for the UMO, but it's pretty easy to make it work for UM2 as long as the source files are available. Thanks!

Over the last few of months (time flies when you're waiting on parts sent via China Post), I built a UM2 clone using Misumi aluminum extrusions. It started as a project to teach myself AutoDesk Fusion 360 but it's turned out to be a great printer. I imported the UM source solidworks files in A360, dropped the walls (frame), and added extrusions and support parts so that all original UM2 hardware is supported. The entire guts is 100% UM2 with all hardware untouched as far as position/size. I used the UM2 assembly manual to build the gantry and to get other wiring clues. I've published it to YouMagine with pretty decent instructions and a BOM. If you have questions, just let me know.

I'm not super familiar with the UM/2 G/M Codes yet (Ordered one recently). But typically there is a GCode for heating and waiting (for both the head and bed) and just heating w/no wait. This is something supported in Marlin/Repetier firmware, but I'm not sure if UM supports those features. M104 - Heat Hotend w/o waiting M109 - Heat Hotend and wait for temp to be reached M140 - Heat Bed w/o waiting M190 - Heat Bed and wait for temp to be reached I guess its a matter of testing those on an UM2 and see what happens. :-D