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  1. Hi, i am printing a belt clip, like those used on walkmans. I have tried PLA and ABS with no success. Both get deformed after some hours of use. Is there any suitable material to print a part like this? I mean, something that can keep original shape after enduring a sustained force for some hours. regards.
  2. A way that i have used many times to get accurate threads on printed parts is tap and die tools. Instead of modeling a thread you model a simple cylinder or circular hole. You just need to use the recommended outter diameter for each metric. Then chose at least 4 to 6 perimeter layers or print parts with at least 80 percent infill. Once you have the part printed, It takes a couple of minutes to carve perfect threads using these tools. I recommend to use some oil drops when using the tools, to prevent plastic burning and breaking.
  3. Proliferan los negocios de impresión 3D (digitalizacion e impresión), pero no tanto los de venta de impresoras domésticas o semiprofesionales. Seguramente aun la gente las ve como complicadas de usar y probablemente tienen razón.
  4. Acetal has to be used with caution, specially when heated. Please, read this: http://www.cityplastics.com.au/site_files/687/pdf_files/acetal%20msds.pdf
  5. I reported this problem many months ago. It is not related to a specific filament. Once it happens, it occurs whitch any filament. it is something related to Cura and occurs only with certain printed parts. If you print using other slicer, do you still have the problem? I had the same issue with Cura for certain parts that went away when switching to S3D.
  6. La tienda TDS3DLand de BIlbao ha cerrado, con lo que ahora mismo no hay ningun vendedor de Ultimaker ni ninguna otra tienda especifica de venta de impresoras 3D. Todavia se puede comprar alguna impresora y filamento en varias tiendas, pero que tienen poco que ver con la que acaba de cerrar. RIP.
  7. BTW, is there any videos on Youtube showing the UM3 at some detail, for instance: filament change, settings, calibration, part cleaning, etc...? All videos I have watched on Youtube are very simple and pretty short.
  8. How many hours are rated those cores for ?. I understand UM has done many endurance tests, right?. I belive you must change the whole core once the nozzle tip wears out, am I correct ?
  9. I have seen some plastics painted on a metallic finish that looks like real metal unless you look it behind the part and discover it is plain plastic. Attached is a picture of an ABS plastic painted with this finish. Note that the plastic part shown is not printed. Does anyone have an idea of what kind of process achieves such amazing finish ? https://www.dropbox.com/s/x9x6ihy60il6cg1/met_finish.jpg
  10. Has anyone tried CarbonFill filaments on UM3? I understand the nozzle will be ruined after one spool printed, if not sooner. Buying new replacements for UM3 is not as cheap as with changin a nozzle on UM2. So, should I give up printing abrassive filaments on UM3 ? In other words, should I need to keep my UM2 just for printing that kind of filaments ? I can give up copper and bronze, but I am fond of CF20.
  11. Hi. Does anyone know whether there is any S3D update (or beta) for the new UM3 ?
  12. gr5, so if you print, say a cube, with autoleveling, the square sides wont be square ? Or does the software add some sort of leveling platform before printing ? BTW, how much tilt can compensate the autoleveling system ?
  13. A simple 4K camera with tilt and pan, and 20X optical zoom (all remotely controllable). That counts for 2 servos and some brackets. Adding an additional stepper the camera could go up and down using a dedicated rail. Also, please add a second thermographic camera, because temperature does matter!. :-D
  14. Hi. Did you get the flexplate already ? Have tried it ?
  15. Which CPU board is inside the UM3?. Is it a custom board? Specifications...?
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